SRK Photographers Thread Vol. 1

That’s a nice idea, Rei. I’d definitely like to see something like that…

I went to Gainesville this past weekend and visited their “Butterfly Rainforest”. It was a good chance to mess around with my macro lens. However, I think when I was processing them, I went overboard and messed around with the contrast/saturation too much. Please let me know if I am correct in this assumption.

http://images32.fotki.com/v1047/photos/4/481327/5676223/IMG_3907-vi.jpg

http://images32.fotki.com/v1044/photos/4/481327/5676223/IMG_3891-vi.jpg

http://images31.fotki.com/v1050/photos/4/481327/5676223/IMG_3888-vi.jpg

http://images31.fotki.com/v1041/photos/4/481327/5676223/IMG_3895-vi.jpg

http://images32.fotki.com/v1063/photos/4/481327/5676223/IMG_3900-vi.jpg

http://images31.fotki.com/v1055/photos/4/481327/5676223/IMG_3904-vi.jpg

This next one probably shows my oversaturation during post, and my lack of a tripod.

http://images32.fotki.com/v1045/photos/4/481327/5676223/IMG_3956-vi.jpg

Pretty good, but you can really start improving your images by making your cropping a little more dynamic by implementing the rule of thirds.

Right now, you are using the bullseye method of photography. Aim at the target, center it, and shoot. The only problem with that is that you have more than one plane of interest. You have the subject AND the background.

Back to the rule of thirds, basically, the Renaissance painters figured out that the easiest way to give a subject context within a photo was to divide the photo into thirds, and place the subject on the center of one of the lines that divides the photo into thirds. I’m sure that google has better explanations than I just gave you…

But, the only other thing that caught my eye was the camera settings for this:

F4@1/20 w/ISO400

How dark was it in RL?

It wasn’t too dark, the sun was about an hour or two away from setting, and we were in a “greenhouse” type structure. It was pretty bright, but I think my flash went off for about half or those pictures. I figured I could get away with ISO 400 since it was essentially daylight in there. Should I have changed F-stop/shutter speed?

Thanks for the advice and constructive criticism. I have heard of the rule of thirds, but I haven’ tried it yet. I’ll give it a go when the next opportunity arises. I really do appreciate the professional advice, though.

How much do you guys do in photoshop? Or any post processing? Seems like most photographers fall into 2 different camps: Having a good eye while just taking photos and the other seems to have a good grasp of how to manipulate the image to create great pictures.

I personally suck at photoshop and to be honest don’t have a strong desire to learn it more. Right now my workflow is only iPhoto and consists of cropping, some slight level adjustment (contrast, saturation, etc if I feel like it needs it), etc.

Just kinda curious how everyone else works.

Derek Daniels

I never use Photoshop except to reduce the resolution and to burn/dodge. My camera has an editor in it that I usually use for cropping / brightness / contrast / color balance etc. etc. With film, of course I do all that in the lab.

Then good job.

I thought that the picture was done outside in direct sunlight, which would have translated into more like F11/@1/90 w/ISO100, so something that was seven stops brighter in camera (meaning seven stops darker in RL) made a tiny bit of my head a’splode. (For those following along, from F4 to f11 is 3 stops, 1/20 to 1/90 is 2 stops, and ISO100 to ISO400 is 2 stops). I couldn’t figure out why you had so little light in direct sunlight, but your technique fooled me. Again, good job.

I shot around 3000 rolls of film this year, so as a general rule, I don’t use photoshop or the chimp screen.

However, when I shoot product photos, I do them digitally, and use photoshop to add clipping paths to the image as a professional courtesy to the print house.

In terms of photography, that about all I use photoshop for.

I’ve probably opened Photoshop less than half a dozen times since I’ve started using Lightroom. Everything I need for post production it has. I don’t really do a whole lot anyways, just usually some cropping and color balancing when necessary.

The best thing about LIghtroom is how it covers everything for post production like importing, organizing, developing, exporting, etc… And grouping… grouping is amazing.

Long gone are the days when I had to import the photos with one program, open each image up separately with Photoshop, and then deal with organizing not only the images but also the stupid info files Photoshop spit out when working with RAW…

EDIT: Rei, what type of film do you usually shoot with?

Mitsubishi MX-III 100 ISO

90 cents for a roll of 36. The nice thing is that each frame yields a 15mb 8-10 megapixel image with 2 stops of dynamic range.

Rei teaches photography - Assignment 1: A Portrait

I wanted to get everyone shooting on something before I started getting into the boring stuff, so we are going to do a basic assignment that gets everyone shooting. It is a basic portrait of someone. If you feel intimidated by the rules, please don’t be. I will be available to answer all questions that you have, and will be able to help you understand anything that doesn’t make sense to you about the assignment. In fact, below the rules, you will find some explainations and examples of things that should help everyone out.

The rules are as follows:

  • You must use a key light and a fill light to do your photo. You have to do this on purpose, and be able to repeat the results consistently.
  • You can NOT use a photo that you took before you read this thread.
  • You must shoot the portrait on full manual mode.
  • No photoshop allowed. These are the photos that you made in the camera.
  • You have to turn in two photos, one is your final photo, and the other is your setup shot. You may post and submit other photos, but you can only choose one as your final entry. The setup shot is specifically done so that all the other people involved can see how you did your photo.
  • You will have to join the SRK IMM flicker group to turn in your photos. The group is invite only, so post in the SRK photographers thread if you need to get invited. You will tag all your photos for this assignment with “srkimm” and “srkassignment1”. Your final photo will also have the tag “final”. Your setup shots should also have the tag “setup”. If everyone does this, then a flicker search by those tags should bring up all the photos submitted by everyone.
  • Due in 3 weeks, but early submissions are encouraged, and you can change your final submission up until the due date.
  • I will choose the best photo based on a secret system involving TigerGenocide (the mod, not the move) and the way the chicken bones land on my plate the next time I eat at KFC.
  • Prize is to be determined. I’m working on this, but right now it consists of bragging rights.

Minimum equipment needed for this assignment: a camera that has Manual mode, although, you can use any equipment at your disposal.

Read on and I will explain some basic ideas that will get your started.

Key Light:
A key light is the primary light, but more to the point, it is the light that creates highlights and casts shadows. You see, in order for us to see texture, we have to interpret the highlights and shadows that a object creates. A key light creates those highlight and shadows, and as a result, is almost always the most powerful light in your setup.

Fill Light:
Fill lights are lights that help control the textures. If you have a hard key light, then it will sometimes blow out highlights, and cause black shadows that have no detail. Sometimes, you want this, but other times, you need to see something other than black in your shadows. So, you use a fill light to control how dark the shadows are, or, for that matter, if there are any shadows at all.

Manual Mode:
Get used to manual mode. Basically, manual mode is like using a custom joystick, and automatic modes are like using a pad. While the automatic modes are helpful, your camera will try to outsmart you when you start doing things on purpose. If you have P-mode on your camera, use that to get a ball park figure of what settings the camera would pick, and transfer those to your manual settings.

Assignment example:

http://rei.bustkaratedojo.net/post/srkphoto101/001.jpg

This is a portrait I shot this morning in my bedroom. I used the classic key/fill light combo that portrait photographers have used since the 1800s.

http://rei.bustkaratedojo.net/post/srkphoto101/002.jpg

In my case, I have a sliding glass door with a sheer curtain as the key light. As the fill light, I have a gold reflector. Simple way to do this, and people have built portrait studios around this setup before flashes and strobes were even invented. If you don’t want to go out and buy a reflector, then a sheet of foil will do just as well.

Basically, you can get this type of shot at Chipotle’s by using the sun as your key light, and then using the foil from your burrito to fill in the shadows.

Let’s get started!

So anyway, that is the assignment thread to get people shooting, but I’m going to make posts in this thread about basic concepts and techniques, unless people think I should give each concept its own thread.

Oops, I forgot I posted in this thread months ago saying I’d be all up in this thread. I never come to Image Mishmash so I forgot. =( I might participate in that assignment thread, but I doubt it heh. I’ve intended to participate in the photo assignment threads on two other message boards that I go to more often than here, so if I haven’t found the time to do them I probably won’t find the time to do these. But I’d LIKE to, and it’s the thought that counts! :wink:

Rei what film camera do you use? And why the hell is b&w film more expensive than color? :sad:

Depends on the situation. Mainly a Canon T2 or a Nikon N90s. The Canon for the P-mode TTL stuff, and the Nikon for the Manual mode studio lighting and strobe stuff.

Aargh, of course we start with my weakest subject, lol.
So before I go out and embarass myself infront of a human, this is basically what you’re after:

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2020/2096432496_010bc02af9_m.jpg
(click for larger)

Well, that would work just fine.

I’m basically looking for a portrait that shows an understanding of key/fill lighting. I’m likely going to post up examples of different methods of getting key/fill lighting, but most of all, I like to see creativity.

I was finally able to shoot something that wasn’t some lame snapshot for my school paper. Unfortunately it didn’t go as I planned so I ended up doing something completely different.

So instead of coverage of the Parade of Lights at Channel Islands Harbor you get my Meatyard-esque attempt at Light on water…

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2142/2096511745_135451e142_m.jpg http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2338/2096512323_f33003f1c5_m.jpg http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2192/2096512493_3198e4c2a2_m.jpg

Click for larger…

So here is the first post about the training materials that we have…

Okay, so the first bolded section that we have in our manual says this:

So the rest of the page is just procedural stuff like show up on time, stay on schedule, shower, etc, so I won’t go into that yet, but I will elaborate on it to try and explain why this matters more than the photography.

Okay, so first of all, if you are transitioning from hobby photographer, to pro photographer, you have to be thought of like this: “I want to pay that guy money to take photos of me.” You don’t want to be thought of like this: “That creepy person wants to take my photo for god knows what purpose.”

Think about that for a minute.

Those are two entirely different points of view. Realize that portfolio does not matter, because the majority of working photographers don’t ever put a portfolio together. They get the overwhelming majority of their work from referral. Word of mouth. Someone telling someone else things like, “I had this guy take photos of [X], and he was very good.” Most of your potential clients don’t ask for portfolios, rather, they ask for referrals.

[X] could mean a weddings, product photos, corporate photos, press photos, group photos for organizations, school photos, etc.

So, with that in mind, here is more of the procedural stuff.

Of the people that decide to ‘go pro’ in photography, around 90% fail in the first year. Of those remaining, half of them go under within the next five years. In order to be in the 10% that win, you have to do all of the above, and you have to do one other thing.

Don’t make promises that you can’t keep, and keep all of the promises that you make.

If you said you are going to deliver photos on a certain date, do it. If you can’t handle a specific job, let the client know, and give the client alternative options for turning it into a job that you can handle. Also, return all your phone calls and emails quickly. Your voicemail promises people that you will return their call. Do it.

Another example.

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2111/2101855768_4253652875.jpg

I use this on more than 95% of the shoots that I do. Either using the available scenery, or setting up a backdrop as shown in the photo. Basically, the tent, and the 10’x10’ white scrim form the key light, and I can use either a reflector or a flash as a fill. In almost all cases, I use the pop-up flash and put the camera on P-mode. If your camera has flash exposure compensation built into the p-mode, it should do this set-up automagically.

Really easy to do. Just go anywhere, shade your subject with a something that diffuses the light but doesn’t totally block it, and use your on-camera flash as a fill.

Lots of pro photographers use this type of set-up. It is an easy, reliable way to get great portraits, and is portable. Check out the 3rd page on the Monte Zucker article in the November 2007 Rangefinder to get an idea of what to expect from this setup. (The part that says Choose or Create a Background).

Rangefinder: http://www.rangefindermag.com/magazine/Nov07/index.tml
Direct Link to article: http://www.rangefindermag.com/magazine/Nov07/116.pdf

Also, in the same article, you can see on page 4 how he does the exact same setup that I have in the first post in the section titled “Lighting”.

Nice T1AN! I’ve seen those types of shots before and I don’t usually like them. I’m digging yours for some reason.

I just got an F100 in the mail today! It’s a Christmas present though so I can’t technically use it yet. :xeye:

I don’t know why I’m that excited anyway. I’m a digital man! Film can’t be winning my heart. Film’z so dumbz! DUMBZ!!!

a few snap shots off teh 405 while going to meet up eppie in the LBC.

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2396/2099478157_c7ba893cf8.jpg

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2404/2100256684_b09538c5b0.jpg

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2300/2100254730_272c7362f6.jpg

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2147/2099473565_21c1762ace.jpg

So the last small local venue had it’s last show tonight, and I decided to go and shoot it. Like I expected, there were several other photographers there. To make sure that I photos that would be unique from theirs I decided to go crazy with 1/15th of a second. I love/hate the results…
All of them can be found here…

First some standard stop action stuff.

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2295/2114786424_9069e663ec_m.jpg

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2133/2114784978_927fc28e55_m.jpg

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2101/2114785634_eb65d4abeb_m.jpg

and now the crazier stuff…

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2066/2114006953_b504b7b7c3_m.jpg

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2350/2114781102_d01b82c41d_m.jpg

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2165/2113999505_d7371208ca.jpg

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2243/2113999909_099316017e.jpg

I’m really torn on the last one. Part of me hates, and other part effin’ loves it. IDK…