I just picked up the SE Fightstick from Gamestop today. And have been practicing with Dudley who’s my main, Sagat & Adon. I haven’t touched an arcade stick in over 5+ years and I have recently been using a SFIV Chun-Li fightpad & 360 controller, so it’s going to be little challenge for me.
I saw a video on how to easily get DP’s out from using the square gate, but hitting Dudley’s St. HK > EX MGB combo has a been a surprising headache.
Starcade, the GT-C circular restrictor is done and readily available. LizardLick has them listed, and should have tons in stock within the next few days. Reviews are already coming in in this thread:
http://shoryuken.com/f177/project-gt-c-lets-talk-about-circular-jlf-restrictors-245866/
LizardLick’s link:
http://www.lizardlick.com/Sanwa-GT-C-Round-Restrictor-Plate-Insert_p_616.html
Full disclosure: I made these and am selling them through LizardLick; they are not made by Sanwa, nor made with their permission or consent. If you think it’s a conflict to post it up, that’s perfectly fine. I just think that many new players would prefer a circular gate in their sticks, and it’d be nice if it was pointed out here that they could.
Not only do I full support giving players more options, I also fully support helping you sell stuff. First post edited.
is the x-arcade tankstick worth $200? i’m thinking about building a mame cab. i’m no pro at fighting games, and probably never will be, but i do prefer arcade sticks over controllers, i also have friends that are about the same skill level so the fact that it’s got 2 sticks is nice.
How do I use my headset with my the SF TE? I got this small cable and a black brace orsomething, and I need a so called adapter… what’s this adapter?
I tried Modding my arcade stick for the first time a few days ago (putting new sanwa parts in an SE) and all of the screws have a dot of red glue on them. Is there a proper way to get that gunk off of the screw? It was fine when it was just the four for the joystick, I just kind of chipped it off, but I’m a little nervous about installing something like a Cthulhu until I’m confidant I’m not going to break anything.
i’ve been looking to pick up an arcade stick. i’ve been searching around for prices and found that if i got a madcatz SE and modded it, it would be slightly cheaper than a TE. I wouldn’t mind opening it up and swapping the parts out, because it pretty much looks like plug and play. which option would be better for me? it looks like from the pictures, i would gain more space to rest my right palm, and resale value, but i’m not planning on quitting.
i’m currently using the stick that came with Tekken6, but do have the TvC stick for the wii,so am aware of the differences there are in quality and performance.
Pretty much any way you can get rid of the red stuff, do it. I usually use a pair of needle nose pliers to grab and pull it off as best I can, and sometimes an Xacto knife tip to clean out any left in the phillips head cross shape.
If you’re nervous about the work, it’s really a good idea to find a tech to do it for you. There’s a stickied thread in Tech Talk specifically to find a local modder.
A TE will be better than a modded SE. Just get a TE, and save yourself the work and headache.
And make it a 360 version TE, even if you plan on mostly doing PS3 play. Modding a 360 TE to work on both systems is tons easier than starting out with a PS3 version stick.
Thanks for the reply!
I’d rather learn how to mod my own stick, personally. The building of the gaming hardware is almost more fun than the gaming itself, and when I move on from fighting games to something else, I still have a stick that I built, to remember it by.
Plus, if I get any good, I can put myself on the sticky thread in tech talk.
Sally Mae said she was new also…
Did you try to call her?
is there really any difference using “american” or “jap” sticks when it comes to the marvel series, cause i notice alot of people tend to use the bat stick with straight button layout…
I think that’s largely just because a majority of Marvel players played on American cabs to start, and therefore used American sticks/button layouts.
There’s definitely a difference in feel between the two, but neither is necessarily better than the other. Just a matter of familiarity.
would anyone know what the best way to get a Mad Catz SE in Canada (toronto more specifically?)
Hmmm
I got a TE stick in November of 2009 (IIRC its a “round one”), and I used it for a fair amount for a while after SSF4 came out, but then I ended up giving up fighting games for a long stretch- rarely playing until now (since MvC3 came out, and the SSF4 AE content may come out in the near future).
During that time period the stick was stored in my room, uncovered. I don’t think I ever put anything really heavy on the buttons, although I guess its possible that I may have put a book or something on there for a bit…
Although the stick was not used all THAT much, and worked perfectly when I stopped using it, only the top row of buttons (AFAIK, since I don’t use the top right one much) and the bottom left button work reliably.
The others are kinda spotty. Even if I press them firmly, sometimes the inputs simply do not get registered, and sometimes they do. Other times. they absolutely will not be registered AT ALL unless I unplug and replug the stick.
Is this something that could be fixed by ordering new buttons or springs or what-have-you? Should I consider getting a new PCB?
Or is this just something that happens to round ones over time?
I did use the stick a fair amount but I really don’t think I put it through it’s paces so thoroughly as to make the buttons unresponsive.
nice thread i like it
its very infoormative
The MadCatz PCBs (Older ones at least, not sure on newer ones) kind of have a reputation of dying after a while. I had a similar problem with my SE stick (Which uses the same PCB as the TE).I fixed it until I replaced the stick by taking the wires from one of the 3P/3K buttons and putting it on my Roundhouse button (which was the one that was fizzing out all the time).
Anyway, You can check to see if it’s the PCB by just swapping the quick disconnects from one of the working buttons with one of the non working ones. Plug it in to the system and check if the non-working button with the working wire works fine. If it doesn’t work, button’s broken and you can replace that pretty easily. If it DOES work, and your previously working button (With the wires from the non-working button) DOESN’T or is spotty like you said, then the PCB is probably fried.
Cracking open the case will void your warranty, though I’ve [heard that if you go in through the top you can avoid cutting the warranty sticker. Check with the Tech Talk forum if you’re uncertain.
You should also look at the USB connection to the PCB. From my own experience(which isn’t huge, but more than most folks), that was the problem with the first sticks. I had an SE and the roundhouse button would quit working randomly and the stick would turn off randomly. I ended up getting a PS3 round 2, and dual modding it with the board from my SE stick. That same PCB that was shitty in the SE, worked fine in my dual mod with cleaner solder joints on the USB cable.
Hey, thanks (Both of you).
Is there anything I can do about this without wielding a soldering iron myself? I have to admit I’m at a loss here both in the case of replacing my PCB and in the case of the USB connection (where do I even begin?) and this was not particularly encourgaging:
“Q: My MadCatz 360 TE/SE fightstick occasionally has a problem where the RT and LT buttons will stop working. If I replug, they work for a while, but eventually go out again.
A: Known problem with 360 TE/SE boards, and happens whether it is dual modded or not. No known 100% fix. Suggest you rearrange buttons so you dont use RT or LT.”
Sorry sbout this question guys, but I need to know If I want to get better at SSFIV. Is it manditory to learn plinking and double tapping? I don’t know how to do it at all, but If so, how do I know when to do it? Or when is the best time to use it? I main Ryu.