So I signed up specifically to say thank you for compiling all of this useful information:rock:
I started off terrible and now I’ve worked my way up to being just plain bad at this game!:razzy:
So I signed up specifically to say thank you for compiling all of this useful information:rock:
I started off terrible and now I’ve worked my way up to being just plain bad at this game!:razzy:
Why is this exactly? I am a fighting games noob coming to the PS3 version and want to buy a TE fight stick. For what reasons is the 360 version of the stick different/better/easier?
Sorry if this has been asked before. But is it possible to change the sensitivity of the buttons? The stock madcatz buttons I have now register my inputs even if I just fart on them. I’d like to press the buttons harder for them to register. Is this possible?
I make electronics that go into arcade sticks, which include the electronics to talk to PS3’s (and PS2’s, Dreamcasts, gamecubes, blah blah everything else).
What I CAN’T do at the moment is talk to Xbox360’s. There are security chips on them specifically to prevent people Microsoft doesn’t want from making controllers that work on Xbox360’s. So, what most of tech talk recommends is to start with an arcade stick that already speaks Xbox360, and add in our electronics to make it work on other systems. One example of that is the Kitty boards I make for Xbox360 model TE’s and Xbox360 model Hori VLX sticks. URL to read up on them is in my sig, and there are plenty of techs who do this sort of dual mod installations for you for a fee.
If you just want a stick that works on PS3, then just buy a PS3 stick. Ditto if you just want Xbox. If you want an off the shelf stick to work on Xbox360, PS3, and a whole crap ton of older consoles, then starting with an Xbox360 stick and adding in all of the rest is a ton easier than starting with something else; you’d have to add one board for the older consoles (MC Cthulhu) and an Xbox360 pad from somewhere else.
There’s no reliable way I know off to make them less sensitive. You might be able to change microswitches, but if you’re going to go that far, might as well get new buttons. Seimitsu’s are less sensitive than Sanwas, so just about any Seimitsu button will do the trick. I’m personally a fan of the Seimitsu G buttons:
Seimitsu PS-14-G 30mm Snap-In Button
My main stick is a TE with 6 of those in it and two button plugs to cover the far two buttons.
Great guide, first off. awesome for us newbs.
Now, about the tekken 6 stick. I know, it’s not great, but recently they have started selling the unopened limited edition sets for 50 on ebay. It’s not some guy in his garage either, it’s just one of those small companies that ebays most their sales. I got one recently, and while I know, it’s a playskool toy compared to an actual stick, it’s still a cheap as hell purchase for anyone who doesn’t have tekken 6 yet and would like a stick. Tekken used goes for 10 to 20 dollars, so for a brand new game and an “eh” stick, is not a bad price.
Nice FAQ – good information.
I do think there is one major error/piece of misinformation in it though – and it’s the answer to the question of “grip.”
I can totally imagine that some people go down the rabbit-hole of crazy over this, and I totally get that the answer was partly to discourage the advocacy of “strange grips.”
But the basic/FAQ/101 answer to the question about grip isn’t as obvious or silly as the OP seems to imply.
I am new to fighting games and here are two things that it took me a while to realize…
…the grip I was using on the joystick was basically putting the ball of the stick in my palm and wrapping my fingers around it. Totally comfortable, nothing obviously wrong about it – it would absolute pass the criteria listed in this FAQ.
But after a while I noticed that on youtube videos people usually used a much “lighter” grip involving only a few fingers. Once I switched I realized that quick reversals of direction (like the kind needed for a super jump) were not as hard as I had thought.
Basically, with my original grip, a super jump was very difficult to execute b/c I was trying to use big, slow muscles of my shoulder to do what is essentially a “flick action.”
The other topic about grip that could, perhaps, be addressed is how to rest the stick on your lap. It took me a while to notice that as I play I was rotating the entire body of the stick. This would cause me to start dropping HCs and QCs.
Now, I use something between the stick and my lap to help reduce the rotational motion — usually a board, sometimes a t-shirt – anything to increase the friction between the legs of the stick and my jeans.
Anyway, I’m brand new to the fighting game genre, so I don’t mean to sound like I have experience to back this up – but when you’re new, it sometimes gives you a more intuitive and better understanding of the kinds of mistakes and problems that other new players run into…
In the TE’s, what’s the difference between the 1st Gen PCB and the updated version?
Soo, I’m very interested in buying a “entry level” fighting stick.
Now, I’ve read the post and I was wondering, is there a difference between Madcatz SE and the WWE Brawl stick?
I have a few questions.
The “SRK Newbie Saiko Dojo Arcade Stick FAQ” lists several Madcatz TEs. The post also mentions newer/older TEs. Are the TEs listed top/bottom = oldest/newest?
Honestly, I haven’t done thorough searching, but I can’t find a trustworthy site/store selling a Xbox 360 version of the last TE listed in the “SRK Newbie Saiko Dojo Arcade Stick FAQ” around the $100 - $150 range. I was hoping to find that particular TE. Are there any US versions of the buying/selling forum like the one in the Neo Empire Forum? I stumbled on this information in the “Where to get an arcade stick in the UK?” thread.
I’ve also read that the PS3 version of the Madcatz TEs have compatibility issues with PCs, that’s why I’m hoping to find a Xbox 360 version. Can anyone elaborate on this issue or convince me that I won’t have any problems with the PS3 version?
The PS3 TEs don’t work with AMD chipsets, so if you have an Intel processor you should be golden.
merging with the Arcade Stick thread.
Hey, hopefully this hasn’t been asked before, but I couldn’t find it.
What is the standard button set up for Mortal Kombat on a traditional six button stick? (I have one of those cheap Horis.)
Will Mad Catz release a new TE with Street Fighter IV AE?
I think most people use the default layout.
FP - BP - Throw
FK - BK- Block
You don’t even need the throw button since it’s just FP + FK, and to xray you just hit FK + BK + Block
Some people like to mimic the X layout by doing something like this.
FP - Empty - BP
FK - Block - BK
Personally I’d just stick with the default layout since how you change buttons in MK9 is kind of weird, so changing it around every time for a tournament would get annoying.
Updated version PCB is more reliable/ less buggy.
Easy way of looking at this is Avoid the Round 1 SFIV Stick. Arcade Sticks such as Round 2, MvC2, MvC3, BlazBlu and the TE S are fine.
They are both Mad Catz SE sticks, one has Street Fighter Art and one has WWE Art. The WWE Stick does have improved quality of parts over the original release SF IV SE but as of now, if you are buying a brand new stick this should be a non-issue.
Most likely not, although MarkMan would know better than I. Since Street Fighter IV Arcade Edition is technically the same as the other 2 versions of Street Fighter IV(“vanilla” and Super), it only lacks Training more and a few other console only perks. So the Arcade Edition closer to the version found in official Arcade Cabinets. They still play the same and what not.
So, I have finally decided I want to get serious with SSF4 and buy a stick.
I read the sticky etc, but I am just still unsure on a few things.
Is getting a TE stick right off the bat worth it?
I am very new to the game(played vanilla abit but nothing serious), but just dropping 120+ out of the blue seems pretty steep even though I really want to.
I am considering just getting like a Mad Catz SE but thats a a real pain to find from what I have seen, but I mean if I am just starting off do I really need a TE high-end stick?
I might be forced to buy a TE one because of the scarcity of SE lowerish-end.
Would something like this be ok for a beginner?
All replies and help are appreciated.
Moving into the arcade stick thread.
Without them saying for sure exactly what parts are in that stick. Some of those have actual arcade parts, some do not. Also, the base is pretty light, so it will move around in your lap a lot. It looks like an older qanba model, but I can’t tell for sure.
This is one of those situations where you get what you pay for.
Can someone re-up the link on how to cross-mod sticks? Since the SRK update, most links don’t work…
Also, what size Sanwa buttons are in my MadCatz TE “S”? I want to change the ridiculous color scheme. I think they are the 30mm. By the way, this is my first stick and I am LOVING it. I did cut myself on the sharp plexi-glass artwork while changing out the gate. Nothing worse than a paper cut though. I got it for $110 New and no tax @ Gamestop.
Thanks a lot!
I hate to be a unique snowflake, but a slightly modified version of these is what I ended up going with:
Empty - FP - BP
Block - FK - BK
Being able to have my thumb resting on block is WAY more comfortable than holding my ring finger at an angle on the roundhouse button. I highly recommend this set up to everyone getting into Mortal Kombat!
30mm. I’ll get the links fixed as soon as I can.