Fuck semi’s and that rock throwing I hope they just t-bone each other, and jack knife off cliffs. Fuck em.
2016 RX7 coming soon…
So yall remember about 6 months ago when I was getting my car repaired invoking that lifetime warranty. Just want to update you guys on how things have gone since the swap.
IT’S BEEN A NIGHTMARE!
Let me give you all a timeline
December 18 - Finally got the car back with the new engine installed (45 days in the shop). Full Diag performed, no issues discovered with the car.
January 03 - Water pump with complete engine failure (Tow #1). Only had the car for two weeks. The dealership just slapped on a new pump and went on its way.
I regularly check all of my fluids and to my surprise, the power steering fluid reservoir was bone dry. THEY FORGOT TO FILL THE DAMN THING! Created an issue with the rack and pinion -
March 08 - Serpentine belt tensioner was chirping. Took it to dealer for replacement. Replaced tensioner (also diagnosed the issue with the rack and pinion and wanted about $1,200 for repair)
March 08 - Lost power steering on the way home and engine began to overheat. Serpentine belt tensioner pulley snapped off and lost the belt. The bearing “apparently” seized. (Tow #2)
March 13 - Get the car back, start complaining to Chrysler take it to another dealer for them to evaluate. Since steering gear degraded towed to a different dealer (Tow #3)
April 6 - Dealership 2 - Got the issues fixed (rack and pinion replaced and found mounting bolts missing from both water pump and tensioner). Luckily I had pictures of everything to strengthen my case.
May 14 - Serpentine belt goes bye bye again. (Tow #4)
May 20 - Dealership 2 found the belt behind the harmonic balancer. It was not properly seated on the crankshaft causing the pulley’s to be out of alignment, shredding the belt (Dealer’s words not mine). Dealership 2 states that they didn’t feel comfortable working on the vehicle given the state that it’s in.
Right now I am car-less and waiting for the Chrysler dealer rep to contact me so I can get this resolved. My only options were to send it back to the starting dealer and have them fix it as warranty or take it somewhere else and seek reimbursement. I don’t want to take the risk for reimbursement. If something more is wrong then I could be out much more money in the short term. This was supposed to have been something good, but yet, It’s been stressful. My car didn’t have any problems until this one dealer touched it and now I visit the shop almost monthly. Saturday will be two weeks without a vehicle and my patience is officially gone. It’s already been up to the top so now I just have to wait. My insurance company reminded me that the last tow would have almost averaged once a month. Really just want this to be over. I actually just tried to have them just pay me out for the value of the car, but doesn’t look to be a likely option. Let me state clearly that Chrysler has done their due diligence and resolved the items in that March timeframe. Now I am on that same path. It just sucks having to wait to get these things done.
I’ll keep you all informed
Sounds like one giant ass head ache, good luck
Finally got my wheels
I’ve lost it
http://i1271.photobucket.com/albums/jj622/jamallhughes/photo%201%204_zpsbickltrn.jpg
http://i1271.photobucket.com/albums/jj622/jamallhughes/photo%203%203_zpsmj6zjk5r.jpg
http://i1271.photobucket.com/albums/jj622/jamallhughes/photo%202%208_zps1sgcvfnm.jpg
I don’t know shit about that add on, so what do you gotta do to make sure you don’t blow your engine, do you use both tanks at the same time, and when and where do you spray?
Best way to not melt your engine or shoot piston and valve chunks out the exhaust is proper research and restraint in using nitrous. I’m still learning about it as it is now but off the top of my head, both bottles are open at the same time when in use. There are a few different ways to spray that I know of: dry shot, wet shot, and direct port. Dry is the route I’ll be going because I don’t plan to go beyond 100 shot. Dry shot is just a plate with a nozzle spraying nitrous into the intake manifold. One problem I will run into is the injectors have to be able to supply enough extra fuel to go with the nitrous or I’ll lean out the cylinders and start melting pistons. So before I run it, I’ll need to switch injectors. Also key is a proper tune…which I do not have yet. It comes down to respecting the rules the power adder plays by.
You can spray it anywhere and anytime you want as long as you’re at wide open throttle and the engine rpm is at a certain point. A WOT switch ensures the nitrous doesn’t spray unless the gas pedal is to the floor and a window switch only allows spray at a preset rpm point (like spray only at 3,000 rpm to 6,000 rpm). Solenoids used between the line and manifold act as gates keeping the pressurized nitrous from flowing from the bottle into the engine on its own. Another way to mess up your engine is if a solenoid gets jammed open by debris from the bottle, then nitrous can flow freely into the engine without the WOT condition and that’s not good. So an inline nitrous filter will be a part of my setup as insurance. I will also need to run colder spark plugs. Ignition timing has to be retarded depending how much nitrous is sprayed during a hit. It’s all still very new to me but I had an urge to start compiling the parts. It’s a lot of little details that need to be dead on like any other power adder.
It’s a bit poser central right now in my hatch area, I just wanted to get the holes for the bottle brackets and blow down tubes drilled. I still need bottle warmers, filter, lines, jets, fittings to tie in the two bottles, pressure gauges, fogger plate, nozzle, WOT switch, and window switch.
Nos isn’t a joke, but ita the best for power as far as I know.
Are you limiting yourself to 100 shot because that’s the mechanical limit of your engine and drive train?
The internals on the engine are as tough as you need for a street car, so I’d be more worried about the tuning aspect. Per my engine builder, a 50-100 shot dry is the easy street approach. Any higher than that and I need to start looking at timing control, wet shot options and other areas I’m not 100% set on doing or knowledgeable. He use to run a wet shot and blew a hole in his hood when the nitrous pooled in the intake a bit and backfired. Luckily, he didn’t lose his manifold. After seeing the pics, not sure I would want to upgrade output and have that risk. He eventually made a DIY direct port setup and now runs 400 shots through his 470 cid stroker motor in his Vette…I will never need that much power. As far as the drive train goes, my builder runs the same six speed I do and for the last 10 years has run 900+ horsepower through it down the track and now he runs 1300 or more through it, so the transmission is pretty stout, no worries there either. I am the “limit” along with my stone age computer running the engine.
The nitrous setup was suppose to be the finishing touch on the whole project MUCH later but I found some bottles and said what the hell, start buying the parts now.
What if it was a cast iron block like the 2JZ-GTE, how far could you take it? I saw a build with four dedicated huge ass turbos.
2jz internals are weak and it requires the internals to be built completly from the ground up. on top of whatever you pay on top for the engine (which is too much). That 4 turbo set up costs 30+k on the engine alone
you dont’ have a stand alone ECU? Makes sense if to keep it at 100 shot if youa re going to keep the stock maps of the car.
The block itself is iron. The block would be good for most of what one wants to throw at it in street form.
No stand alone ECU yet, although I am considering it. The downside is they are not cheap. FAST XFI complete with wiring harness is several thousand bucks and a “deal” is finding one used for $1500. It’s doable with the 80s ECU but you have to really know what you’re doing. I’ll probably cave and get a used FAST system.
You could consider a carb setup with those Holley carbs that self Learn and have the software to tune.
But that might cost the same of not more.
@Tekno Virus, you need to buy a new stand alone ECU because you can’t mess with the stock one, and you need completely new heads to make use of any new turbo you dump in there. Heads which are not cheap at all. and then you need to rearrange the turbo plumbing on these cars as well. It’s not cheap man
Got the ride back. Finally, it feels good to drive again. The whole social media potential fire storm to get a company to notice is real. Everything else on the ride checks out well so if I can get another 200K out of it, that’d be great.
Soon I hope to be moving into a place with a garage, so I intend to do some replacement and upfit of the suspension.
Also, any of you guys have experience with these OE replica wheels? I am due for tires soon and am potentially considering slightly moving up in wheel size.
OE replica wheels? If the name suggests, I know a guy that bought a set that does wheels specifically for euro makes, and seemed quite happy with them. I’d check forums that are dedicated to your car and research on fitment.
Just got it last week
Well, that didn’t take long. I am almost certain that it got keyed in the gym parking lot tonight. I rubbed it and didn’t make much of a difference. Was also able to groove on the right hand end of the scratch. I feel like I should be more upset but right now, I just want to get this fixed up. I will hit up the dealership Saturday and see if they think it can be buffed up and if not, buy a paint pen from the parts department.
I want a general consensus on how I should go about this, though. Clean, paint then wax? Or clean, wax then paint? I was planning to clean and wax the car next week anyway since I have the entire week off from work. Thanks in advance.
