Swissvax is nice… Too bad the high end stuff costs like 8000$ a can
I used to do the Zaino route and I was pretty happy with it. It’s a sealant and it lasts longer than wax, so water will bead and it’ll stay pretty shiney. Takes a little more effort in my opinion, but the extra time between having to wax is nice.
Always use a 2 bucket method. If you are going to be waxing, wash with Liquid Dawn to remove the old paint. Also, every 6 months you NEED to claybar. I don’t care what else you do, you better claybar that goddamn car. I claybar’d my new 335i as soon as I got it home, and pulled all SORTS of shit off teh paint that must have got there during manufacture / delivery. Its worth it even on new cars for sure.
What you DONT need to do on a new car, is polish. Polish is for paint correction, and there better not be any swirl marks in your paint coming off the line. When you DO want to polish (say, after a year of cleaning it yourself properly… or maybe 3 months after going through horrible automatic car washes (DONT DO THIS TO YOUR CAR!!)) i can only recommend Menzerna. The Super Intensive Polish is just AWESOME, and the finishing polish afterwards leaves your paint just absolutely perfect. I got a sun light and after a round of polishing my paint was amazing.
After paint correction, you are ready to wax or seal. Zaino is (if you do it properly) a pretty intensive process. Will take you a good 3-4 hours at the very least and that’s if you are quick. Its nice, but Im partial now to a good Carnuba wax. The shit you buy at AutoZone and Adv Auto parts isn’t worth your money. Get on AutoGeek or Detailers Domain and buy REAL wax. I like Swissvax Metal for all the metal trim I have on my car, and then im currently happy with Pinnacle Souveran. Costs 100$ but I really like the shine - was worth it to me.
So a quick Summary:
Wash your car with the dual bucket method - (Liquid Dawn if you are going to wax, or something nice like Zaino Car Wash or Mothers Car Wash if just a quick wash.)
CLAYBAR (ONLY if you are going to wax/seal afterwards.) As far as im concerned, all clay bars are made equal. Pick one up at AutoZone.
Paint Correction (Only needed if you have swirl marks / paint blemishes.) Requires an Orbital for application. Lots of elbow grease.
LSP. Wax or Seal. If you are on the cheap, anything carnuba will work. If you want to spend some money, look on some Detailer forums and see some of the ‘better’ brands. Im a fan of Swissvax and Pinnacle, but they cost a pretty penny.
I dont know, I mean im generally not a picky person, But I think any modifications would look better on the hatchback. The body condition is fine on both, No dents or anything. They just need a paint job, The interior on the hatch needs some work, But the 4 door is nice on the inside. Engine wise, Me and my brother just replaced the clutch on the hatch, And it needs new spark plugs. They’re both pretty much the same from what I can tell. I just have more of a liking towards the hatch Bright red with black rims=Sexy right?
how long does bird shit have to be on your car till it starts to do any damage?
where i work, birds shit on my car all the time. i try to make it a habit to wipe any of that shit off as soon as i get home… but sometimes i forget.
and whats the safest way to get it off your paint without leaving any fine scratches. i tried using a moist paper towel to soak and wipe that shit, but it left a little bit of abrasions on the clear coat.:wtf:
Spray some quick detailer on it and let it sit for about 30 seconds, then wipe it off with a microfiber towel. I keep a bottle of quick detailer in my car and a few microfiber towels just in case (literally) shit happens.
I own an '06 spec v with suspension work and an intake slapped on. full nismo lip kit on the front and rear and thats all. i plan on selling the car around the end of the year to get either a 350 or a 370z, i’m leaning towards a used 07/08 which i can get from around 20k and use the money i saved to mod.
I’m driving an 06 Subaru WRX. I need more body work, I’d love to get simple stuff to it, I’m broke though. I used to rally-x in this beast but they stopped having the tourney’s at my local track. I have driven on track a few times, but not as much as I would like.
mods:
3" Turbo back cat-delete tanabe exhaust
K&N Typhoon Intake
Accessport V2 Flash (Stage 2)
And some baller RallyArmor special edition mudflaps
I own a 99 Camaro SS Convertible (Heavily Modified), a 2005 Targa-Top C6 Corvette (Bone-Stock) and a 2002 Mitsubishi Montero Sport (With Billions of miles on it… Billions).
I like the Camaro. The SS package with the Brembo big brake kit looks pretty sexy.
My only issue is that an american muscle car should be sporting Wilwood brakes, not Brembo…but they went with what is popular right now, instead of what you see on most muscle cars.
Yeah, the term muscle car is not really being revived with the remakes (Mustang, Charder, Camaro, Challenger). My main complaint is the back end of the car. Evn though its true to the original, it looks a little off to me.
If I remember correctly, thats a “Lifetime supply.” Just like the Swissvax Divine (which used to run in the 8k area, i think you can find it for more like 2500 now.)
It REALLY looks amazing when applied after paint correction - the wax is actually that much better than normal wax. If you are running a detailing business and you really do get a lifetime supply (as in, free refills for life) its worth the investment. After cleaning 100 cars at 800~$ a detail, you recoup your money and then some.
Only driven it 3 times, a test drive, a night out, and to work and back today. I plan to relocate the kill switch to someplace not so retarded this weekend, and also relocate the battery to the trunk above the rear axel, and then put the coolant recovery tank where the battery used to be (heard this was good for airflow). Also as soon as I get some insurance I’m gonna be getting roadside assistance and ditching the fullsize spare tire.
Questions (this is my first car with a manual tranny):
Today The Beast refused to go into first if the car was on, I had to turn the car off, and put it in first, and then turn the car on. What does that mean?
Going into reverse, it makes a weird grinding noise, is that normal? As soon as I put it in reverse the grinding sound happens, but I can still move it backwards.
Hopefully next year after I get an improved sound system I can get some of the dings banged out of it and get a clean black paintjob on it, and then some new wheels, but only after I have HELLA insurance on it, I am super scared of my car getting jacked, it has already attracted some attention from a shady ass crowd. :sad:
Bright red with black rims=Sexy right?