^ Dude that’s what I thought it was at first. A carbon fiber Gundam, lol.
Just a bump for the thread because I was wondering if anyone else is working on any projects right now. Figured I would share a few more pics of small stuff. I started at 4 am this morning sorting out the wiring and called it quits by 1pm…nothing ever goes as planned. I never thought I could waste so much time running battery cables and GODDAMN, the negative bat cable was a bitch to bolt to the block after having the exhaust headers bolted in place. Intake finally sealed.
http://i1271.photobucket.com/albums/jj622/jamallhughes/intakeports_zps1182c860.jpg
Used “The Right Stuff” sealant for the ends of the block and portions of the gaskets themselves. Everyone swears by it and it’s a little pricey ($17 smallest tube) but you only want to be in there once sealing, so here’s another vote for it. If you’re used to OHC or DOHC it’s probably a little weird to see a valley full of pushrods. These are beefed up pushrods seated in a decent $140 set of GM hydraulic roller lifters. These are good for the 6500 rpm area before valve float becomes a big problem. Toyed with the idea of “high rev” roller lifters that advertised rev range through 7K but they were $700 range and not necessary.
http://i1271.photobucket.com/albums/jj622/jamallhughes/sealing_zps2f51d241.jpg
And this tiny little part causes big discussions, arguments, and so on and I’m not an expert by any means so someone can chime in with info as well. It’s a thermostat and I’m not the sharpest knife in the drawer but I do believe it is a 160 degree unit based on the ID stamp. It came already installed in my miniram intake from a previous owner. For small block Chevy V8 discussion, there’s always tons of 160 vs 180/ 160 vs 195 topics. Based on the temp rating, the thermostat stays closed until the engine reaches a certain temp then opens and allows additional coolant to circulate, then closes once it cools below its rating and continues the open/close cylce during operation to regulate temps. There is a little wax pellet in a small hollow area which melts at a predetermined temp, which expands and causes the valve to open due to the force of the expansion. If the wax cools enough, it returns to a solid state, and the spring tension overcomes the lack of expansion force and pushes the valve back close, not allowing cooled coolant to continue entering the block and lowering temps beyond a certain point.
So this 160 is only going to let the engine get to around 160 degrees fahrenheit before it opens. Arguments against the 160 are it doesn’t allow the Chevy V8 to get to a proper operating temp than a 195 degree thermostat would allow thus possibly losing power from the combustion process. Also, a 160 thermostat will not allow the engine to warm to proper operating temperature quickly due to opening sooner and allowing cooler coolant in too early. Others say if you live in a hot climate, a 160 will benefit you and keep temps down. I installed it as is but seeing as I’ll be doing an intial start up and break in, I may replace with a 195 degree unit to be safe.
http://i1271.photobucket.com/albums/jj622/jamallhughes/thermostat_zps2d83b0e9.jpg
http://i1271.photobucket.com/albums/jj622/jamallhughes/photo33_zps125c0b82.jpg
And here’s the underside of the throttle body which needed clearancing to not hit the thermostat housing. The stock 48mm throttle body fits just fine, but this is a 58mm, so the dimensions are a little bigger. The IAC (Idle Air Control) housing has been cut to only accommodate the IAC valve itself. The other outline is where hot coolant would normally flow through and the main reason for this was to keep the throttle blades from icing over and seizing in extreme cold climates. Never heard of anyone south of Canada having an issue with icing TB blades, so less clutter, more purpose in the engine bay with that section gone. I snagged this World Power Products TB off ebay a while ago for $200. The Holley and TPIS units are $400 bare with no sensors or extra housings and probably still require clearancing. This is a quality piece that came with the Throttle Position Sensor, IAC and modded IAC housing and has great operation. I had heard some issues with the throttle return spring binding on WPP throttle bodies but this thing is put together very well. The seller stated the TPS was preset to operating spec voltage, which I believe is still .56 for a TPI 383 but I will have to check that out with my ohmeter when the time comes, otherwise the engine will not run properly and don’t need that on a break in start up.
http://i1271.photobucket.com/albums/jj622/jamallhughes/TBmod_zps91fa4401.jpg
Piddling on the little things until I get some more money to buy the last few key parts. So many little things. I see why new Vettes are 70 grand because you’re paying for engineers and testers to figure all the little things out to perfection so you can just drive and enjoy it.
Boss
Boss
While I think the H2R is sweet, this almost as bad ass, and probably a lot less!
Going to take off the plastidip off my wheels on my Civic Si, take it in to a shop to figure out what I did to the rear suspension/wheel from last winter that I ended up drifting and hitting a curb, and sell coil overs that I never got around installing, hopefully to help cover the cost of what ever resulted from the curb rape. Then selling the car and getting a truck. Any suggestions for a pick up that I can get for less than 20K that can haul one or 2 bikes and equipment? So far I’m thinking V6 Ford Ranger. I heard GMs have some issues with electrical and rust.
so, my dads 97 altima
I"m not sure why the left front wheel is making a noise as if the brakes are making contact with the rotor. Everything is set in correctly, nothing is lose. It sounds as if there’s metal on metal contact. I changed the brakes since they needed to be changed anyway, but the noise is still present.
my family had a similar problem with their Altima in which the front axle was loose.
Just posting a few more pics from today. Went and picked up plugs, wires, cap, and rotor to finish off the ignition system.
http://i1271.photobucket.com/albums/jj622/jamallhughes/photo3_zps0f16f319.jpg
Also took some time to degrease my Denso starter that I received from a parts supplier and man was it gunked up, the pics tell the story. Wearing neoprene gloves is a must when doing hands on degreasing or you’ll have grime under your nails for a week. Haven’t decided if I want to rebuild the solenoid on it yet but the kit is only $12.
http://i1271.photobucket.com/albums/jj622/jamallhughes/photo1_zps4fe0aec3.jpg
After
http://i1271.photobucket.com/albums/jj622/jamallhughes/photo22_zpsa5897e07.jpg
Distributor broken down somewhat to replace parts
http://i1271.photobucket.com/albums/jj622/jamallhughes/photo34_zps8c17cbf4.jpg
New rotor, you can see the old one in the background.
http://i1271.photobucket.com/albums/jj622/jamallhughes/photo42_zpse2d7fc7a.jpg
Just getting the wires in a position see which ones will work best where.
http://i1271.photobucket.com/albums/jj622/jamallhughes/wiremess_zpsebb6b993.jpg
A rough mock up layout. This part actually took longer than it should have. Whipped out the factory service manual and got the right wires to the right plugs but then I looked at a pic of someone else’s spark plug wire arrangement and I was amazed at how much detail was put into routing the wires so well. I gave it a try and I realized that person had changed the firing order on their engine and thus allowing them to swap plug wires around, I guess the race-ready look of the wire setup was a byproduct. So I just threw something together for the moment but it still needs a good once over to make sure no area of wire can touch the headers.
http://i1271.photobucket.com/albums/jj622/jamallhughes/wiresort_zps15c85071.jpg
Replacement rack and pinion ordered tonight. We’re getting there…
http://i1271.photobucket.com/albums/jj622/jamallhughes/photo4_zps4e053d1a.jpg
Trying to post a few pics of some progress but SRK is not liking photobucket today. Anyone else working on anything? Did my exhaust and had a bitch of a time doing it. Took three days, each one more frustrating than the last. If anyone plans to do a custom exhaust, bring your tape measure with you because you could be looking at the same pieces of pipe, side by side, and the stampings say they are 3’’ outside diameter, but one of them will be 1/16 to 1/8 w
ider across. I found that out the hard way.
http://i1271.photobucket.com/albums/jj622/jamallhughes/inside_zpsbef8d478.jpg
Well turned out that the noise from the altima was a worn ball joint…fixed that. Switched from 5w20 to 0w20 on my accord and the cold start issue is no more, just have to be vigilant of oil levels.
And we I was discussing the merits of copper anode spark plugs vs platnuim based ones with a friend. Peeps with srt8 have been switching their platnuim to copper for more response, at the cost of long term use. Makes sense since copper plugs are used for cara that are failing the hydrocarbon portion of smog emmisions, that’s wasted energy… I’d still think iriduim are the best compromise for my I4, or any car that’s driven daily and reletavely hard.
How cold does it have to be for you to have cold start issues? Also, can’t you use iridium tip plugs?
It’s California (southern) so it isn’t very cold. At most 60 for now. The issue is that my starter is weak, so it gives me issues on two fronts. When it’s cold, and when I turn off the car after its completely warm and turn it back on within a 20.min range. Prime the ignition, struggles and then there’s the grindig noise you get from turning the car over too much. 0w20.hasn’t given me that issue, but I do worry about leaks, and I have to let the car warm up a min or so, so that there is no damage to the block due to using a slightly thinner oil on start up. At running temp, it’s just as thick.
Starters run for a hundred bucks iirc at O’Reilly. Just swap it out? It was three degrees Celsius or thirty something farenheit, and I just let the engine idle for a minute before driving. That’s with using Penzoil 5w-20
If I had to deal with actual cold weather I would. Im going to switch it soon. But ins let this run its course. I’m more worried about the o2 sensors for the accord.
Also iriduim is good, but copper burns more of the fuel in it. I run iriduim on all my cars, but I’m not looking at what gives me the biggest jump in power. More efficiency and durability. Iriduim is superior imo.
My Charger R/T is 8K from the 200K mark and still runs great. Chrysler already sent me the 200K license plate frame LOL.
I drove a rental Charger on a trip. Thing felt like it oversteered.
I will not lie, this car (with a stock suspension) is a land yacht with a decent amount of torque.
I don’t plan on getting rid of this car anytime soon. I actually have the Chrysler Lifetime Powertrain warranty on the vehicle with 0 deductible. They offered it back in late 07 early 08 to drum up business. Since I was the original owner of the car, I purchased it after the fact.
This is what’s covered:
Spoiler
LIFETIME POWERTRAIN LIMITED WARRANTY DETAILS
Who is Covered?
You are covered by the Lifetime Powertrain Limited Warranty if you are the first registered owner or lessee for use of the vehicle. Subsequent owners or lessees, even if they are within the same family or business, are not covered. Successor business entities or persons to whom the vehicle is transferred by operation of law are also not covered.
What’s Covered?
The Lifetime Powertrain Limited Warranty covers the cost of all parts and labor needed to repair a powertrain component listed in section E below that is defective in workmanship and materials. There is no coverage for towing in the event of disablement.
When it begins
The Lifetime Powertrain Limited Warranty begins at the end of the Basic Limited Warranty.
Excluded Vehicles
SRT vehicles, Sprinter vehicles, diesel equipped vehicles, all Ram Cab/Chassis vehicles, rental vehicles and government vehicles are not covered. Vehicles used as a police vehicle, taxi, limousine, postal delivery vehicle, or ambulance are not covered by the Lifetime Powertrain Limited Warranty.
Parts Covered The Lifetime Powertrain Limited Warranty covers these parts and components of your vehicle’s powertrain:
Gasoline Engine: cylinder block and all internal parts; cylinder head assemblies; timing case, timing chain, timing belt, gears and sprockets; vibration damper; oil pump; water pump and housing; intake and exhaust manifolds; flywheel with starter ring gear; core plugs; valve covers; oil pan; turbocharger housing and internal parts; turbocharger wastegate actuator; supercharger; serpentine belt tensioner; seals and gaskets for listed components only.
Transmission: transmission case and all internal parts; torque converter; drive/flex plate; transmission range switch; transmission control module; bell housing; oil pan; seals and gaskets for listed components only. NOTE: MANUAL TRANSMISSION CLUTCH PARTS ARE NOT COVERED AT ANY TIME.
Front Wheel Drive: transaxle case and all internal parts; axle shaft assemblies; constant velocity joints and boots; differential cover; oil pan; transaxle speed sensors; transaxle solenoid assembly; PRNDL position switch; transaxle electronic controller; torque converter; seals and gaskets for listed components only. NOTE: MANUAL TRANSMISSION CLUTCH PARTS ARE NOT COVERED AT ANY TIME.
All Wheel Drive (AWD): power transfer unit and all internal parts; viscous coupler; axle housing and all internal parts; constant velocity joints and boots; driveshaft and axle shaft assemblies; differential carrier assembly and all internal parts; output ball bearing; output flange; end cover; overrunning clutch; vacuum motor; torque tube; pinion spacer and shim, seals and gaskets for listed components only.
Rear Wheel Drive: rear axle housing and all internal parts; axle shafts; axle shaft bearings; drive shaft assemblies; drive shaft center bearings; universal joints and yokes; seals and gaskets for listed components only.
Four-Wheel Drive (4X4): transfer case and all internal parts; transfer case control module and shift mode motor assembly; axle housing and all internal parts; axle shafts; axle shaft bearings; drive shafts assemblies (front and rear); drive shaft center bearings; universal joints and yokes; disconnect housing assembly; seals and gaskets for the listed components only.
When Lifetime Powertrain Limited Warranty Does Not Apply
You are not covered by the Lifetime Powertrain Limited Warranty if you are a second or subsequent owner of the vehicle.
Inspections
In order to maintain the Lifetime Powertrain Limited Warranty, the person or entity covered by this Powertrain Limited Warranty must have a powertrain inspection performed by an authorized Chrysler, Dodge, or Jeep dealer once every 5 years. This inspection will be performed at no charge. The inspection must be made within sixty (60) days of each 5 year anniversary of the in-service date of the vehicle. You must have the inspection performed to continue this coverage.
Other Provisions of This Powertrain Limited Warranty
All other terms of the New Vehicle Limited Warranty including the Section 1 (Your Rights Under These Limited Warranties) and Section 3 (What’s Not Covered) apply to this Powertrain Limited Warranty.
I ain’t tryinna sound like a Honda Fanboy but the cabins in Hondas seem to fit my body’s dimensions perfectly. When I was driving that Charger, resting my elbow, the dashboard not perfectly angled to my eye level, and etc… small things were annoying me. #thestruggleisreal
Touge’ Thursday:
Charger is a much bigger car, the Accord and Civics never fit properly for me with respect to leg room. It’s annoying, but great cars.
OK, so I have the money to buy a vehicle. 6k
that leaves
RSX 6 Speed Manual
Dodge SRT-4 Neon 5 speed manual.
Both diffrent cars, will always be faster, the other handles better
one fits better, the other is cumbersome because I drive people.
I want the funner car, and the SRT-4, a fucking dodge, seems to fit the bill better. Plus the space a must. Any other “fun” cars at that price range? Mazda 3 also is a possibiliyt.