[quote=“LiangHuBBB, post:957, topic:75512”]
my car and bike
[/quote]Cool, is this Germany?
I agree with buying an F body as a good project. You can get them soooo cheap and parts are mad easy to get for them. I’ve considered doing that as well just for fun instead of focusing strictly on imports.
Also me and mrs. Hyper kid were walking around downtown chicago and we came across a Lamborghini and Mcclaren dealership. All I can say is seeing and hearing those cars in person is beyond amazing. I was salivating at the awesomeness. Oh well, I plan on getting a space just for my project cars.
The main body of the bike look so big that the rear wheel look disproportionately small.
Yeah, that definitely needs a larger rear, maybe a “360” tire:
Comparing the Akira bike, looks like the NM4 is going the right direction but still missing a bunch of things:
Also should of maybe done the wheels hubless with the covers:
http://youtu.be/4K00hbCM9vQ Oh and IIRC electric coilovers that sparks!
Well yeah, but it’s the first step.
I’m just nit picking, and I’m sure some Japanese dude will make it happen like that one that was fabricated a few years ago.
[quote=“OGSF, post:961, topic:75512”]
Ye, I live in a small town near the border of switzerland.
There is no FGC scene here nor any arcades
thats why I only play online and riding motorbike in my freetime. There are some rly cool areas to ride
a r6.
Basel?
Some more cell pics of little stuff. Not sure what I am doing for the intake hold down but I had some spare aluminum lying around so I fabricated a hold down bracket. C5 Z06 guys do the “zip tie” mod where they just use zip ties to hold the filter to allow more air flow. Don’t think I can set that up here due to design differences with intake design. Just spit balling with this piece…
http://i1271.photobucket.com/albums/jj622/jamallhughes/photo12_zps2f5e0be1.jpg
http://i1271.photobucket.com/albums/jj622/jamallhughes/photo32_zps1e92bf06.jpg
I can probably find some extra long zip ties and use one horizontally in place of the aluminum strap and zip tie it right to the intake housing. Would lighter that way.
Just a few pics of piddling versus progress…so probably fueling off regrets of doing just a 383, I’m on a weight shaving kick. I decided to look at the hood in closer detail, which fully decked out with all attachments, weighs about 125+ pounds. The fiberglass hood has a second skin underneath that appears to act as a structural support. A lot of it looks to be molded for mounting things like wheel well splash guards, underhood lights, and whatever else, so I’m not sure how much of a support it does. Well with a heat gun and a few different sized putty knives, I got the driver side section of the skin separated from the fiberglass and the fiberglass is pretty flimsy without it, so looks like most of it needs to stay in place, unfortunately.
http://i1271.photobucket.com/albums/jj622/jamallhughes/hood_zps1238e6de.jpg
http://i1271.photobucket.com/albums/jj622/jamallhughes/hood2_zps26c532e0.jpg
http://i1271.photobucket.com/albums/jj622/jamallhughes/hood3_zpsbf69d7a4.jpg
So I’m thinking next weekend I’m going to the pawn stores to look for a cheap dremel tool to cut out excess of the support without compromising the rigidity of the fenders/middle of hood. The front of the hood underneath is completely rusted out, so out it came. I also ditched the hood support bracket riveted to the hood from the factory and between those two pieces was close to 10 pounds. Sounds like a bad idea getting rid of the hood support, but if I can shave some more weight off, the little cylinders that help raise the hood will open it and hold it up no problem. The hood latch mechanisms in the upper corner of the hood weight a lot. Easily 10 pounds worth of steel and springs between both pieces when taken off the hood. BUT…you have to have them or you can look into hood locks. I’m thinking something like this:
http://i1271.photobucket.com/albums/jj622/jamallhughes/hoodlocks_zpsea2fd244.jpg
If I did this later on, I could ditch the heavy latches and entire cable assembly used to open the hood. Not a definite but I’ve gotten to thinking about it lately. Also taking a look at the flip up headlights which I am very fond of but picking both up together was a real wake up call on how heavy they are. Easily 25 pounds worth of lights. Fabbing up decent gauge aluminum “boxes” to house and hold some Hella 60mm beams and their adjustment assemblies, the flip up light panel that lies flush with the hood when closed can have a recess cut in it and tunnels fabbed up for the beams. Similar to this design:
http://i1271.photobucket.com/albums/jj622/jamallhughes/c4_corvette_headlight_zps22a7a5f4.jpg
This kit is close to $1,000. I think I’d have more fun trying to fab up my own.
Idk about compromising the rigidity of an already weak material.
I don’t usually say this, but more power, and bigger gripier tires would do you more good than risking that structal stability.
But if you can make it work safely that’s cool.
Even without the under hood skin, frame flex would not do it in but it being as flimsy as it is creates an unsettling feeling. I’m more worried about external contact, like someone leaning against the fender or any pressure placed in the very center of the hood without the supportive skin under would crack it. Maybe tomorrow, I’ll take a colored pencil and outline the areas I’ll be removing for better perspective.
And we’re off…I got a few pieces cut out before I realized I didn’t have any extra friction discs so I had to call it quits. I said the hell with a dremel because I have an angle grinder that can do the same thing. I weighed it before I started the cutting to get somewhat an idea of how much of a difference this will make. And I can already see a difference in weight before I even started. The scale pic is without the steel latch assemblies attached or the metal brackets normally riveted to the underside, which took this from around 90 pounds down below 80 pounds.
http://i1271.photobucket.com/albums/jj622/jamallhughes/weighin_zpsf13267c7.jpg
http://i1271.photobucket.com/albums/jj622/jamallhughes/hoodcut_zps7a0f522d.jpg
I’d like to find another 15-20 pounds cut by the time I am done.
Are there no carbon hoods available for this chassis?
There are, but the floor is around $3500 for one and they only get more expensive from there. The carbon fiber hoods weigh around 25 pounds bare versus the 90 pounds the stock hood weighs bare. This hood needed repair anyway before a paint job, so I figured let’s see what we can get away with removing weight. Worst case scenario if I mess it up beyond salvaging, they made hundreds of thousands of C4s so the hoods aren’t in short supply. No way I’ll ever get it to 25 pounds or close but I’m stretching to go from 90 to 60 pounds, we’ll see how that turns out. More pics to come over the weekend when I have more free time.
$3500 for a friggen’ hood?! That’s ridiculous, considering I know a kid that has a cf hood on his shit box, I now wonder what he paid more, the hood or the car? As for shaving weight off the hood, are you also going to be shaving weight in other places? What’s the end goal with this build? Is this for drag/track or just for cruising around/show car?
Practically the whole front half of the C4 is the hood and I’m guessing labor, material quality, and tooling factor into why they are so expensive. Your friend’s hood is probably made from a certain type of CF that allows a lower buy in and the hood isn’t as big. The end goal was to get the car back on the road. It’s just going to be a fun street car but I have gotten on a weight loss kick and it’s fun to see what I can do without while still being reliable and safe. The entire AC system alone was close to 100 pounds. I’m looking to drop weight in all areas of the car and would like to get it below 3,000 pounds with all fluids.
Just a few more pics of piddling with cutting. You need to have at minimum fully sealed goggles, respirator mask for fiber cutting, fan on max blast, and earplugs. I had everything but the earplugs so I substituted mp3 player on max volume and the cutting was still loud as a motherfucker. Hood is still plenty sturdy! Going slow with the cutting away, don’t want to rush it, which is why I’m going so slow on this from week to week. I’m cutting out the general shapes then I will be using a grinding wheel to smooth out the cuts to make them more symmetrical on each side of the hood.
http://i1271.photobucket.com/albums/jj622/jamallhughes/hoodcuts2_zpsca8e5645.jpg
http://i1271.photobucket.com/albums/jj622/jamallhughes/hoodcuts3_zps95e96dfa.jpg
And here are those heavy gauge metal channels at the front of the hood that were bonded down super tight and they were both full of dirt and rust. A couple teaspoons of rust/dirt fell out of both and it’s been there since they first started rusting decades ago. Took a lot of heat gun and gentle prodding and prying to get them off. I won’t need them anymore anyway. Even rusted out they weigh a decent bit but they have to be sturdy to help support the heavy flip up lights.
http://i1271.photobucket.com/albums/jj622/jamallhughes/rustedout_zpsd63f31f3.jpg
And we’re at 69 pounds bare with plenty more to cut out of the underside. I just might pull this off.
http://i1271.photobucket.com/albums/jj622/jamallhughes/69pounds_zpse0ed45d2.jpg
Bathroom scale isn’t the most accurate method I suppose but it’s giving me a rough idea.
Pretty much sticking a fork in the hood project. I got it down to 58 pounds and it is getting on the flimsy side but now it’s very light compared to before I started. I have a few more cuts to make for the sake of symmetry but that’s about it.
http://i1271.photobucket.com/albums/jj622/jamallhughes/hooddone1_zpse51a4257.jpg
http://i1271.photobucket.com/albums/jj622/jamallhughes/hooddone_zpsad435d1a.jpg
Moving on to the flip up headlights and kicking around the idea of fixed lights.
Kawasaki’s forced induction bike looks like a friggen’ Gundam:
Maybe you have to be a newtype to handle the amount of powah.