^ It goes pretty overpriced cause of initial D. I’ve seen people try to sell beat down ones for 3k.
The car is an AE86 turbo stock, clean interior, working engine.
Some guy paid $7,600.00 for one.
Looks like I will be making money off it lol.
Bit I doubt I will sell it once I get my hands on it.
I remember like 5 years ago, you couldn’t give away a Trueno, but now they are all over priced.
The value of that car is all about the location. Location matters partly because of condition…is it from a place with high humidity or is salted for snow? (Rust) Is it from a place like arizona or vegas where there is no rust but intense heat!! (bad on belts, seals, tires) The main thing about location is the market value different places have. In Arkansas, a AE86 is a joke.
It’d be damn near impossible to sell it for almost anything. In Vegas, that car is pretty much made love to…A good example is my 91 Cressida. I paid $200 for a good condition cressida in Arkansas, to the locals it is an old Camry, they don’t know. In Vegas, the best drifter in the city had a Cressida, so many people respected that car for the potential it had.
Here’s my 1990 Nissan 300ZX Twin Turbo. While I’m a turbo junkie I hate lag so I’ve built the car to have as little as possible. It’s still rocking original stock turbos but I’ve done just about every bolt-on and upgrade known to man, getting it up to 400RWHP and into the 11s at the strip (100 octane, custom map, ET Drag Radials w/4.10 gears). All of this with almost no turbo lag…so it flies off the line at the strip and still pulls like crazy at the track. One day when I get a house I’ll go with bigger hairdryers but for now it’s quick enough for a city cruiser!
Some pics:
http://www.askthedrunk.com/seedyrom/temp/6.jpg
http://www.askthedrunk.com/seedyrom/temp/9.jpg
http://www.askthedrunk.com/seedyrom/temp/1.jpg
http://www.askthedrunk.com/seedyrom/temp/8.jpg
http://www.askthedrunk.com/seedyrom/temp/13.jpg
http://www.askthedrunk.com/seedyrom/temp/11.jpg
At the strip
http://www.askthedrunk.com/seedyrom/temp/10.jpg
Video of my first 11 way back when. Don’t have any quicker ones on film sadly.
[media=youtube]J-Orihs0g7M[/media]
Nice isn’t even the word for that! I’m a jealous bitch! You post on the 300zx boards?
Thanks man!
I don’t post much anymore but I’m an old school member and former moderator on Twinturbo.net. I also have accounts on 300ZXClub and a few others but they are fairly inactive.
Fantastic ride. I know I have complimented you on this before, but once again…
:tup:
Heres my car. Mercedes SLK 280. You can see my truck in the background too… I’ll post pictures of it soon once I get my new RIMs for it.
Top down roadster style.
This is her after Washing, Claying, Waxing, and Polishing. Lots of work but when the sun hits it you can’t even tell its black anymore. :lol:
Couple more recent pics of the ride:
holy shit dude! awesome whip. i hope i run into ya sometime at AI or somewhere in socal. would LOVE to see that car in person. imo, the 300zx is the epitome of 90’s jdm sportscar.
anywho, my car’s still for sale :tup:
I MUST HAVE that DOMO brake fluid reservior cover!!!
Where did you get it???
(Also, nice ride).
Absolutely love that color :tup:
Ah, I’m just using Domo Wristbands, most anime shops on amazon sell them.
Messing around out in the garage the past few weeks. The rear suspension is coming back together. I even briefly visited the front suspension just to right a wrong I did years ago.
Filthy passenger side rear suspension knuckle.
Cleaning it with Purple Power degreaser. Good stuff, although almost everyone swears by Simple Green.
http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m95/bizarrollamaj/IM000228.jpg
I couldn’t get it apart because the brake drum assembly is held on the knuckle with three torx bolts. Two came out fine while just one is seized up, so I need the neighbor across the street to hit it with his air powered tool tomorrow. Hopefully it breaks it loose.
I HATE torx bolts. Whose idea was it to use these on any car? They’re basically a bolt/screw with a star pattern in the center to accept a torx bit. No hexagonal sides just a round head with this dumbass pattern in the middle which will strip out or warp if you even sneeze while trying to break the bolt free. Can you imagine trying to undo one of these that’s been in place for nearly 25 years?
Here’s a shot of a cleaned up suspension knuckle from the driver’s side, complete with fresh bolts and urethane bushings. Those torx bolts didn’t give me trouble at all.
http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m95/bizarrollamaj/IM000219.jpg
http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m95/bizarrollamaj/IM000222.jpg
There’s still enough wiggle room to install the half shafts along with the half shaft joints and straps. Haven’t ordered those yet and will hold off for now, the car isn’t driving anywhere anytime soon.
On to the front for a moment, I removed the rack and pinion, which is done for. The tie rods on the otherhand I can salvage. In my younger years, when I took the car apart for the first time, I removed the castle nuts and wacked on the stud of the tie rod to loosen them from the front suspension knuckles.
Well that was back in 2002, fast forward to today, and I got to thinking about them. I did the same thing to the rear toe link tie rods which connected to the rear suspension. I ended up having to grind off a thread layer which had mashed down from being struck by a hammer and they were good as new for threading a castle nut onto. So I said to myself today, “You know, I had to freshen up the rear tie rods to work again, I bet the front tie rods are the same way”. Sure enough.
Tie rod removal from rack.
http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m95/bizarrollamaj/IM000232.jpg
This is as far on as the nut would thread.
http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m95/bizarrollamaj/IM000233.jpg
After a few minutes with a cutting wheel and a coarse grit disc, they thread on better than the day they were first used.
http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m95/bizarrollamaj/IM000237.jpg
I’ll take them to the hardware store tomorrow for replacement castle nuts. The boots are fine, no tears and all they need to look just like new is a fresh coat of black paint. Back to the rear suspension, once everything is back in, I’ll probably polish the aluminum parts. The car will be a driver, not a show car. The exterior will be nice but as long as the running gear underneath works as it should and remains moderately clean, I’ll be happy.
She’s got a long way to go…
http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m95/bizarrollamaj/IM000241.jpg
I swear to god the only reason they are used is to discourage DIY mechanics and force people to take their car to the dealer.
:mad:
lol, so true. Most diyers will need a set for brakes…the really funny bits are the tamper proof torx bits…imagine a torx, but with a hole in the bit part…
Yeah I hate when manufacturers force you into using random ass bits or special service tools to fix shit. Waste of my fucking time.
Thankfully, almost all of my torx bolts on the car didn’t put up too much of a fight. Some of them look mangled from the torx bit once they’re removed and only a crazy person would dare try to reuse them. I replaced the lower ball joint bushings on the front suspension. Only thing I really need to do up front is replace the upper ball joints as well as new bushings in the upper A arms.
The joints on the upper A arms are riveted in place from the factory with special rivets. I use to worry about my cheap old $25 grinding wheel as a good purchase but it has already paid for itself by fixing those rear tie rods, each of which replaced would have been $50 a piece. The fronts would have been $60.
I’ll use the grinder and grind off the top of the rivets, then punch a mark and drill them all out. Then in go the new ball joints which thankfully are held in with threads and nuts. $25 per side and not too bad. =D
Then the front is done. Will have pics of that sometime once the rear of the car is sitting back on the floor like it should be.