I have a cousin who just bought a used car. He knows nothing about cars. I have to remind him to get oil change every 2-3K miles. I can’t keep track of his car for him every week/month…
What would you say the most important things a beginner needs to do to keep his car last the longer than it should?
What exactly are you going to be tuning? Originally you had talked about turboing the car? Is it a DD or project like hyper said. 02 sensor is is going/gone then the CEL will be on they’re around 200 bucks to fix. As far as leaks go. When you check out the car either take someone who knows or if you know make sure to take a look to make sure that its not leaking. Honda motors aren’t really a big deal to replace but if you’re buying a prelude that motor isnt nearly as popular, at least where I am. And to be honest even at that mileage it should be just fine. Honda motors last forever lol, even if they need more major fixes it probably wont justify doing a swap.
Also, the biggest Honda Cancer of all is rust man… The paint on these cars do not last man, make sure you check everywhere for rust.
Well, the engine is a strength AND weakness of the Prelude. The H22A have FRM sleeves, which means it WILL burn oil at some point in it’s life. That is the first thing to look at when shopping a used Prelude. How much oil it burns. All Hondas do it, so some (very light) is acceptable. Also a good thing for Prelude shopping is that despite having everything from factory that ricers want in a Civic (DOHC VTEC engine, rear discs) They never caught on (because of weight), so finding one thats not been touched is waaay easier than any other “good” Honda.
You could forego the oil burning issue by doing a block swap with an Accord F22 or F23 block, keeping the H22 head. The Accord blocks will have lower compression, which will also make turbo safer. Although a good tuner would be able to tune hi comp.
As they said Honda cancer is a big deal too, as is paint. Any Honda that is milano red WILL need paint. It always fades to ‘Milano pink’ I have seen faded pink 05-06 RSX’s. Other than that, theres no other Prelude specific stuff.
And yes, I have a Prelude. However there isnt nothing that hasn’t been touched on mine. I also swapped to an F20B engine, which has the benefits of revving higher than the H22, no FRM sleeves, and higher compression, but lacks a little torque down low, I have mods that more than make up for that, my Prelude’s a bit quicker than stock.
Also Hyper, it looks different than when you saw it last.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v134/diegoaccord/IMG_20140720_074429_zpsijw5evrr.jpg
Because it’s only got 200 HP in 2012.
It doesnt begin to look good/noticeable unless you make it look like a complete race car.
The one you posted is basically not a FR-S anymore.
response to all 3 of y o u guys,
well the prelude, ia going to be first and foremost a safe reliable but fun daily driver.
I need the car to be reliable first for the next 5 years, since 3 of those are school years, and then am extra 2-3 years to get situated after school.
I am planning on fixing up, and upgrading parts when the money allows it. bolt ons here and there, eventual suspension over haul (no coil overs), and mandatory brake upgrade.
whatever car I get now im keeping for the foreseeable future indefinitely. so thats why I ask about boost applications. eventually the car will be a stripper car but not unless my current venture takes off, or until I get situated after school when money isnt an issue.
as for the frm sleeve. if yhe car has oil burning issues, is resleeving cheap, or am I better of putting another block.
Get a Gen II Ford Escort. It’s like a Civic, except an Escort.
You’re not going to use more than 200 hp if you’re using it as a daily driver and as previously stated on here most people would only do slight modifications.
It’s definitely noticeable, but I guess you’re entitled to the opinion that it doesn’t.
Well no shit, that doesn’t make it any less cool. You can do that to any car but having a good base to start with is key.
For that price it’s really the best option.
lol eww, non 2004 and up civics are gay. cant consign that decision
genesis exists, a si.ple reflash your pushing 300+ hp and tq
focus st is an actual really nice car, that imo is Bette than frs
I’ve heard nothing good about the Genesis so I can’t really comment since I don’t have work experience on them either.
Ford Focus ST is still FWD right? It can’t be 
Also the Focus is the offspring of the Escort.
genesis has three issues that I know of.
initial quality goes away, panels start vibrating etc. (a non issue for me the mechanical things it offers is worth it)
transmissions become slushy over time and may have issues.
bad brake fade (found in all Ford’s, cept the GT)
as for the st? yes it is fwd, and may be successor of the consort, but it shuts on it on EVERYTHING especially style
also st is faster than the frs. and frs only oversteer happy because of its low resistance p ruis tires.
An STi engine swap into an FR-S would be so awesome. A supercharged FR-S is probably a more sensible idea though. Summer rated tires along with an upgraded suspension installed will make the car handle so much better. I’m sure skid pad numbers will be in the 1.0g range. With 300whp and 300 wheel torques, the FR-S will likely accelerate to 60mph in just 4 seconds.
4.1, but yes
IMO no focus can beat the Merkur wing Escort. It’s too bad we didn’t get these badass pieces of machinery here in the states.
To chime in on the whole FR-S and S2K discussion. I think it comes down to preference. I mean I love the s2K a lot, but something about the FR-S when I first saw it let me know that I would prefer it over the s2K. I actually got to test drive the FR and I had a blast. I am not into super heavy tuning, but I could see myself owning the FR over the 2k because of the look and the way it drove. Not putting down the S2k by any means, but I just know I liked the FR more.
I’ve been doing a lot of looking, and salvage type s arent that uncommon. 150-160k miles. at 5-6k, depending on what happens tomorrow, I might get one. I just need to sell my dads altima for a free 2.8k and he can keep my accord.
if link do t work its
worlds fastest car show, dodge hellcat. that car is to boss and possibly thr ultimate GT car for what it offers and price
Man, this whole drive subscription sucks.
I have 4 mms left on my front brake pads. Honda dealership quotes me $282 to take care of them. Isn’t that a bit high?
I don’t trust OEM Honda brake pads so I’m thinking of buying EBC Red Stuff Brake pads for my 2007 Honda Civic LX. All the technician has to do is replace the brake pads and machine the rotors right? How do I know if the machinist will surface the rotor with the appropriate tolerances and parallelity? (is that even a word?) Anybody know about this stuff?
On another note,
The dealership charges $188 to change spark plugs even though it costs $~22-25 for Denso Iridium spark plugs and then all you need to buy is the hex thing that mates with it, an extension, and a torque wrench. The whole thing take 15 minutes if you’re a newbie. This tells me they cannot be trusted.
I heard they had done something, FastLaneDaily made a joke about it in one of their recent videos. So what is going on with Drive???
edit nvm
so many thumbs down
Well I can see why people are salty, but I do think Drive is one of the best car channels on youtube. $3.99 a month is nothing, next time you want to go to burgerking just remember it could have bought you 2 or more months of Drive lol.
most “places” charge around 150-162$ per hour, where there’s a one hour minimum. This is standard in about every “shop” where I live.
Secondly, if you want breaking power, I suggest at least getting slotted rotors with those red stuff. I’m running stop tech Drilled rotors, and EBC Green Stuff (was gonna give, still give, my dad the car and he doesn’t like break noise associated with aggressive pads). It’s gonna cost you more, but if you can do it, it will give you the stopping power your looking for for about the same price. 282 isn’t bad to, most places charge more than that.
Also Honda uses NGK Iriduim, which I think are the best general purpose spark plugs.
I don’t do repeated hard brakes so heat dissipation with the stock rotors isn’t a problem. SLotted rotors are for racing applications of which I don’t do any. I care more that the guy machines correctly. If the rotor and the pad are flat and parallel, the car will stop on a dime with a slight firm touch of the brake pedal.
Including the rear drum brakes, the grand total is $518. Does that include the work involved with the braking fluid or is that a separate ticket item?
the way I see it, spirited driving or not, you can never have enough stopping power. But that’s just me.
But yes, if the rotors are surfaced correctly you can use them. Just give them a call and ask them if the rotors are machined or replaced. You could also take the rotors to a smaller shop, and have them simply machined. where I live that costs anywhere from 5-10 dollars. Granted they haven’t warped from heat or other manufacturer defects it would be fine.
I don’t know if 518 is fair, but I know it’s more “labor” to do drums. It should at least include bleeded breakes, I don’t think you’re gooing to get a break flush, that would cost extra
I finally got my 383 and it is purdy. I had it shipped to me by a company called Forward Air. I got to the place near Jacksonville airport and the guy running it out to the truck on a forklift had the container cocked on the forks. Couple this with the bouncy nature of forklifts and I thought I was going to shit myself: my engine came all the way from across the country unharmed only to tumble off a forklift 20 feet from the truck bed.
I spent last night removing the old mock up motor and prepping everything for the install. Of course, Florida summer weather even at night is lovely, so after 5 hours of sweating it out, I called it quits at a decent stopping point. Bolted up the steel flywheel, and SPEC clutch kit to the motor after I pulled it out of the crate. The flywheel and pressure plate mating surfaces got a good cleaning with alcohol. The steel flywheel is pretty weighty, but for a street car, it should carry more inertia that will hit the rear tires better than an aluminum flywheel. I checked out aluminum flywheels but for a street only Vette, wasn’t worth it after the pros versus cons of street driving one.
So my biggest concern are making sure the transmission is jacked up at the right angle when I lower the engine in so there is little hassle in bringing the two together. Once it’s in, bolt up the 1-3/4" headers, intake goes on, and then I can worry about fabbing the rest of the exhaust to the mufflers. At this point to crank it up, I still need:
distributor $130
plugs and wires $70
injectors $150
starter $100
exhaust work $100
reprogrammed ECU chip $200+
To be road certified I still need:
brake master cylinder $350
4 new tires balanced and mounted $500
windshield $300+
alignment ???
certification $500+
Shooting for this Spring but that will probably turn into Spring of 2017 the way restorations go.
