Sounds like they’d make the worst getaway vehicles :lol:
just do what the Japanese do. drop a ls
They don’t.
Although to be fair, what do you expect from a production consumer-grade engine that redlines at 9k?
so I’m at an impase. has anybody had experiences with LS1 pontiac trans ams?
don’t talk to me about interior, I don’t care. I care about the mechanical side. Good bad? Reliability problems regarding electrical parts? I know the LS1 engine is an excellent engine along with that tremec.
I’m trading my accord for either a
RSX type s or trans am.
Way diffrent cars, but what are some of your guys opinions
RSX-S. I like Trans Ams, but its gonna be hard to beat a Honda as far as work that can be done and getting parts along with reliability. Basically all the folks I know who owned a trans am usually had another car as a dd and this was their project. But it really is up to you. I think I would do the Honda because I know more about working on Hondas. I would go for the Trans am for the potential sound that it can produce.
I mean that is a sexy ass sound.
See that’s why I’m so undecided. I know Honda, I’ve worked on their engines, and I’m familiar with Honda. I know the RSX is gonna be a better Daily Driver, and it’s gonna be so much more practical than the Trans Am.
It’s cheaper insurance
It’s cheaper on fuel
It seats more people
It’s a damn Honda
The more I think about it, the more I think the RSX would be a better bargain for a poverty student…
But the Trans Am is a funner car, and in the future it’s gonna be gutted and transplanted to an FC…Being poor blows. Think I’ma have to do the RSX. Thanks
RSX is the practical choice. I’d say do the Trans Am when you have the money, time and space to actually make it a legit project. I am a big Honda fan, so my opinion is a bit biased, but that doesn’t mean I don’t like a good muscle car. Honestly I am totally torn on what I want to do as a project car. If I had more knowledge towards Bimmers, I would totally do a e36 build (M3 of course). But I have to realy feel comfortable to do those first (maybe e30 would be a better starting point).
yeah. insurance is gonna rape me.
I want to get a RX 7 FC, and drop a LS3 in there. Japanese style, Real American Power
That should be simple enough though. I know I have been looking for old (small) auto garages that I can buy to use a place to work on my cars (as a hobby) similar to Magnus Walker and his Porsches.
I love how this dude works. Soooo jelly.
youd be suprised at the fabrication that is needed. And I don’t’ want to pay for that, I want to do it myself. but full restores are nice, if you have the space, time, and $$J$
You can find some spots like old garages that are out of business and what not to do work in. Heck you can even rent a storage space to do work. If I remember correctly you just can’t have chemicals stored in the space. But I know for sure I will want to restore a car at least once in my lifetime. Still deciding on what though.
Have you heard of Singer Vehicle design? They re imagine old Porsches and modernize them a bit
Electric bike is so sexy doe!
@The Furious One
That’s quite a leap for HD to make, considering that their main line up still is stuck 100 years ago technology wise. LOL, some guy commented that it’s not loud enough and needs a “real engine,” typical HD mentality right there. If I were to get an electric bike, it be one that is proven at the IOM TT and not some company that solely rely on branding.
I enjoyed the quote from the guy that almost certainly has those obscenely loud pipes on his bike. “Loud pipes save lives.” No, I don’t believe that. If you’re around the type of moron that “never even saw you,” your best hope is them finding a telephone pole instead of your bike.
It’s really too bad there are so many terrible drivers out there. As if riding a motorcycle wasn’t dangerous enough in the first place. It’s the main reason I don’t have a bike.
The “loud pipes saves lives” thing is just an excuse to have straight pipes on their vibrating sofas. If some lady on her cell phone is going to side swipe you, it isn’t because your bike isn’t loud enough, it’s because she’s an idiot and bad at driving. It’s probably better to be more visible than it is to be audible, but how many HD owners would wear hi-vis gear, let alone any protective clothing when they are riding to the bar or coffee shop?
As I’ve been riding for a few years now, I can confidently say that being on a bike is a lot more enjoyable than being in a car, no matter how good it is on the performance or comfort side. But commuting can suck even if you are on a bike. Now if they allow lane splitting on a national level, it might take away some of the BS but still won’t fix stupid drivers. I know a few people that keep their riding exclusive to track days and being in club racing, but that’s where all their extra funds goes. If you want to get into riding bikes, I say do it and still keep that mentality of the dangers of being out on the road, as long as you are smart about it, you can generally be on the safe side.
BBQ is right, bikes need to be visible. honestly, only bikes should have those bright led lights that seem so popular. I’m a very careful driver, and those lights gave me the ability to see bikes I wouldn’t be able to see a bike during congested hours at night. Never have I reacted to a bike because it’s loud, it’s always the very bright light that I appreciate when I see one headlight only…
Figured I would post some pictures of my project. 383 long block is finally all done, I just need to get it shipped to me which will probably run about $350-$400. I’ll be happy with this one cranking out a little over 400 to the rear tires but I regret being a cheapskate at the start over $500 for a different crank that would have let me do a 396 stroker motor and make 30-50hp more across the entire rev range.
http://i1271.photobucket.com/albums/jj622/jamallhughes/enginepic_zps452b7301.jpg
Before I even worry about getting the engine here, I had some other areas to take care of. I posted a while back I was doing a Doug Nash 4+3 transmission behind my new 383 but I caved and went a ZF six speed. Both have pros and cons. This thing was a BITCH to get in by myself but by god it is in. I dropped in my old engine block to tie the transmission together so I didn’t have to worry about it sitting on jacks a few more months before the new engine goes in. Clutch kit is Spec Stage 3+ which is overkill for just a 383 but I plan to be bold and do a small 125 shot of nitrous oxide sometime down the road and want no slippage. Jumped through hoops for months with SPEC and a supplier of theirs to get my correct parts sent to me.
http://i1271.photobucket.com/albums/jj622/jamallhughes/IM000678_zps2b66d70f.jpg
Pros of the 4+3 is the four speed section is plenty durable and easy to rebuild as it is a Super T10 four speed gearbox found in tons of cars. A con of the 4+3 is the “notchy” feeling of the stick shift, which uses external shift rods and architecture which dates back to the 50s and 60s. It wasn’t too terrible but it was noticeable compared to the six speed smooth engagements. The biggest con of the 4+3 was the automatic gearbox attached to the four speed box which can be iffy. Even when rebuilt, if overdrive is incorrectly engaged, the clutch packs can smoke in a matter of seconds due to power transfer and just like that it’s rebuild time…again. Another con for the 4+3 is the actual engagement aspect of the OD section, which if done properly, requires a clutch in, press the OD button, then clutch out. You have to use the OD section otherwise the engine will be screaming at interstate speeds. Yet another con for the 4+3 was ensuring the overdrive box was rebuilt properly and primed with ATF fluid properly after rebuild. Basically the OD section of the 4+3 put a damper on me using it but I would still like to rebuild one someday. To the 4+3’s defense, I recently rode in a 4+3 Vette and as expected, you go through the only four manual gears quickly, then it is OD activation time, which I didn’t feel engage at all! But still there’s the hassle of clutching in and pressing a button on the shift plate when you’re use to moving a stick into a new gate.
Biggest pro of the six speed is it’s extremely durable beyond the 450hp/450tq rating. Guys run 600hp+ through these before nitrous hits and these transmissions keep on trucking. No shift rods outside the box, it’s all internal shift rails. Pro, buttery smooth shifting compared to notchy 4+3, the shifter is attached directly to the gearbox, unlike the 4+3 which has a separate “pocket” built into the car body for the shifter assembly with rods that go out to the 4 speed. Con for the ZF, heavier than a 4+3, requires specific gear fluid which Corvette guys have argued decades about. Biggest con is a rebuild by someone who knows what they are doing will cost $2,000 minimum. Reason being not too many people know how to rebuild a Corvette ZF six speed properly, even when new, GM dealerships just replaced the entire gearbox rather than rebuild. Rebuild parts on their own are made of gold apparently.
Other random pics:
mock up engine block with miniram intake and exotic muscle 1-3/4 headers bolted up to check clearance:
http://i1271.photobucket.com/albums/jj622/jamallhughes/enginebay_zpsd0936cf6.jpg
Messing around with wiring, I did some wire chasing, splicing, and rerouting to locate all the relays in the same area.
http://i1271.photobucket.com/albums/jj622/jamallhughes/relay_zps81556806.jpg
Would love to drive something this fast one day, 1000MPH
Also came across this stunning photo