Spark/SparkCE Optical Joystick Sensor for JLF

Whoops. I added it to the first post, here it is again.
http://www.godlikecontrols.com/download/Spark_Welcome.pdf

Appreciate it toodles

fot the paewang, solder to where the red wire on the usb is attached. That goes to the wire on voltage.

Thanks rtdzign…appreciate it.

Whoa I missed the announcement of when these were released for mass consumption. I need to pick one up soon.

Thanks Toodles. After liberal use of a hot glue gun to secure the plastic housing of the JLF to the mounting plate in the joystick so the housing would stop wiggling around during use, the Spark works like a dream.

Hey I just wanted to put this out there for anyone one like me that uses converters with there beloved ps1/2 stick with the Spark I have tested the following converters and They work Perfectly

InPin -PS3 (from Laugh)
Xtokki 360 converter (from Laugh)
tototeck - Sega Saturn
Innovation - Sega Dreamcast
MayFlash Cube joybox -GC/Wii

They put out the 5v needed for the spark in the N/C spot on the PS Cord Pictured below I just taped directly into the wire

Quick q, will there be any issues running a Spark off of an axis-adapter?

Nope, no workie

When is your site going to be up. I’d like to order a few. I tried your paypal address and it says your site is not up yet… What is the best way to order from you?

check the 1st post in this thread

Do you have Any more sanwa flash1 sticks?

so is the flash superior to a regular micro switch or is it a thing of preference

me na no flash 1

Payment sent for another :slight_smile:

I’m having an interesting problem with my Spark that has so far has me baffled.

I installed the spark into an Xbox TE about two weeks ago and noticed a slight hiccup; I always had to unplug the cable then plug it back in. After plugging it in a second time I was golden. I tested this on both Xbox and PC with similar results. A few days later it ceased to function entirely, so I checked my wiring. I had originally connected it’s power to the VCC of the USB cable but upon the malfunction I decided to move it to the VCC on the turbo board instead. Before doing that I left the Spark unplugged to test the TE by itself and it booted up every time without fail.

This is where it gets interesting. After I relocated the power for the Spark I am able to plug it in to my Xbox with the slight hiccup of having to plug it in twice; but my PC absolutely refuses to register it. The LED comes on for a brief moment, but nothing else happens after that.Unplugging the spark causes the TE to be registered normally with both systems.

I’m hoping it’s something simple that I have overlooked; but I cannot understand why it works on the Xbox while my PC doesn’t even try to recognize it. Any insight at all would be appreciated.

EDIT FIXED Alright, I think I solved the mystery. Going back and making sure all of the turbo PCB’s cables were plugged in securely, and in the right spots seems to have solved this issue. I can’t imagine why that is, since the GND and VCC were both properly connected; but you can’t argue with results.

Payment sent for a Sparks.

Just got mine after ordering 2 days ago. Put it in last night with relative ease. Gonna “stress” test it out today with a MVC session with some friends.

Random question. Did the sanwa flash or ascii have a special spring in there joystick??? Kind of curious if they have it. Cannot wait until my next pay check because I wanted a spark so bad. xD

The Sanwa FLASH 1 did come with its own special spring and if you want to be REALLY technical, so did the ASCII Optical. The ASCII one was an exact clone of the Sanwa JLF spring, so there’s nothing special there, but the FLASH 1 came with a heavier spring that was meant to compensate for the resistance the microswitches provided (I think). You can emulate the tension of the spring almost perfectly if you just double up two JLF springs. That’s the combination that gave me the best results when I compared the official FLASH 1 spring to replacement springs.