-Buy now via paypal to be shipped out: $55 each, plus shipping ($6 for priority mail shipping in the US, $12 for Canada/Mexico, $14 for everywhere else), shipping price is good for up to 6 Sparks.
Please also be aware that I dont have a welcome sheet for these yet; these are a small bag with the Spark, and a1 meter cable for the Spark power . If you’re a techno-peasant, you may want to want until guides and stuff are available to work from.
FAQs:
Q: What is it?
A: Spark is a optical sensor board for Sanwa JLF joysticks. It replaces the normal ‘clicky’ microswitch board, and instead uses infrared LEDs to detect the movement in the joystick.
The completed PCB and black housing that goes on top (so its the right height), a 5 pin connector and pins to go in it, and a 3 pin connector and a pin to go in it. The rest of the JLF is not included; just everything you’d need to remove the microswitch board and put the flash in its place; just like the flash kits used to be, but with no sticker or shaft cover.
To install it in a stick that already has an original sanwa flash: remove the power connector, remove the 5 pin connector, remove the clear restrictor plate, remove the original flash. Put in new flash, and reasmble. The power connector and the 5 pin direction connector will be the same as the original.
To install it on a stick that already has a non-flash sanwa: Take a length of wire and crimp one of the connector pins on it. Put the pin into the 3 pin connector (middle hole). Solder other end of the wire to the power line of your pcb. Remove the old microswitch board, put the flash in its place, and reconnect everything.
How much would you pay for a kit you had to solder yourself?
$40
How much for a ready-to-use already soldered piece?
$45
How much for a kit if it did not have the DC-DC converter?
$30
How much for a ready-to-use piece without the DC-DC converter?
$35
How many of each would you expect to buy?
1 almost immediately, and would likely buy one or two more sometime down the road. DC-DC version as it would save me a hell of a lot of trouble in designing an external power source.
This would be great to see, especially with the chip to regulate the voltage. The only reason I haven’t modded my SFAC stick with a P360 yet is because of voltage issues.
i would only buy the the ready to use soldered piece at around 50-60.
would get 1 first to see if i liked it.
i’ve never used a flash before though and was wondering how different is the tension compared to the regular microswitch based jlf? i know the microswitches are a big part of the feel of the jlf due to their close click to the neutral spot of the stick giving it that light but firm spring to center and small dead zone. how does yours compare?
remove the microswitch board from your stick and test it. That’s what it feels like. No click, no resistance from the microswitches. The only resistance is the spring. Range of motion is the same because that’s caused by the restrictor plate.
Sincere thanks to everyone whos posted so far. If you haven’t replied, please do so. Disagree with other’s posts, tell me I’m a moron, say a kit is a stupid idea; whatever, just be honest.
How difficult would it be to put together a do-it-yourself kit? Although soldering seems easy, I am assuming the optical components would have to be fitted with great precision to work correctly…?
I considered a MAX619 step-up converter for my DualShock project boxes but a MAX631 in the stick seems like an even better idea. I plan on putting in LEDs as well though so for me it might be better to have the converter separate from the optics PCB, or perhaps you could return regulated 5 V through one of the unused pins? (And for convenience ground on the last pin.)
If it looks anywhere close to ok, it’ll work, no precision needed at all. The through holes are lined up, and the pcb manufacturers are quite precise. The LED emits 1/2 power at about 11 degrees off of center; even if you bent the hell outta the LED or phototransister, you could bend it back, and if it ‘looks’ straight, it should be good enough.
Having one of the three pin connecter be GND is doable ; the original did. The other for 5v out could be done too. Ill keep it in mind.
I think this is a pretty good idea. I personally wouldn’t buy one because I have 2 Flashes myself and 4 or 5 ASCII optical units, but anyone who is even remotely interested in seeing what a Flash is like should jump on the offer. Good luck to you.