MC Cthuhlu + 360 FightPad and Imp v2, RJ45, with the Spark and DC-DC converter, of course. The converter is Just FGWidget + ChImp.
Wowzers.
From the Imp’s ‘RJ45-VCC’ point, does it go to a glass diode or a black diode? Does the MC use two glass and two black diodes, or four black diodes?
House stuff coming up. Ill be back in a couple of hours.
Diode on the Imp? I don’t see one? Just two ICs and a capacitor? The RJ45 V column is connected directly to the jack, the trace goes about a few millimeters straight to it. Four Black Diodes, I measured about .93V of fV from the G to V columns of the MC Cthulhu. About .84V from Ground to VCC screw terminals.
The RJ45-VCC line should be going to one of the spots in the V column on the MC, each of which has its own diode. Whats the measured voltage drop from the RJ45-VCC point on the Imp to the VCC screw terminal on the Cthulhu?
Can you retake the voltage measurements (both sets using the PSX cable; Converter+Chimp set and connected to PS2 set) with the DC-DC disconnected from the VCC screw terminal? If the voltage on the VCC screw terminal is significantly larger when the DC-DC isn’t plugged in, then we’ll know you’re reaching the limit of the current that can be pulled from the PS2 jack.
Well, some odd things happened with testing. The voltage drop from VCC to the RJ45 column is .161.
With the DC-DC converter and joystick connected to it, the voltage difference measured from G to V columns and from Ground to VCC is almost the same. Using the FGWidget converter set up again, they’re both about 2.8V (G-V columns between 2.75 and 2.85, they’d waver a bit, while VCC to Ground terminals were at a steady 2.9V), and the joystick at 4.28V. Now, disconnecting the joystick makes them jump both back up to 4.28V, with similar measures on both with the joystick connected to VCC, the G-V columns at 3.94V and the VCC terminal at 4.11V
Note, this is all with the DC-DC converter still connected. Disconnecting it caused the voltages on both to go back up to about 4.3V, but connecting the joystick made VCC to go to 4.1V while the V terminal dropped to 3.6. Now, something may have been different, because I realized at about the end that I had left the joystick connected to the signal lines, which were all dropping low and causing random shaking in the stick, mostly as I had left it disconnected.
Now, on the PS2, this is all with the converter disonnected:
VCC: 2.91V with joystick (Very marginally working, huge deadzone, UP direction very unresponsive), 3.04 without joystick
V col: 2.60V with joystick, 2.73 without.
DC-DC connected on PS2:
VCC: 3.04, no joystick. 3.01 with joystick connected to VCC
V col: 2.56, no joystick. 2.55 joystick connected to VCC
In all the above cases, the MC Cthulhu was working in the buttons.
Onto USB:
DC-DC connected:
VCC: 4.52V with joystick connected to VCC, 4.62V without
V col: 3.81V with stick, 4.04V without
DC-DC disconnected:
VCC: 4.66V without joystick, 4.50V with.
V col, this is where it got weird, and why I kept measurements of the V col: without the joystick, I tested it about five times, and got between 3.10 and 3.60V without the joystick, and about 3.60 to 4.00V with.
I dont understand why you’re trying to measure voltage drop from any V to G stuff; there arent any diodes between them so I think your meter is making a best guess when there isn’t anything to read. Plus, any of the V column points except the specific one being used (the one connected to RJ45-VCC if using the RJ-45 jack, and the one connected to Imp’s V point when using the USB jack on the Imp) will be floating; whatever voltage is there is simply the result of noise and doesn’t help or hurt.
Those sound good. Can you see what the voltage on the output of the DC-DC is, both with the Spark power cable plugged in, and without?
I just took those because I thought it might have meant something. Regardless, no harm done.
PS2 source: Spark plugged in, 3.22V, Spark unplugged, 5.18V. Buttons work okay with the Spark unplugged.
Converter source: Spark plugged in, 4.16V. Spark unplugged, 5.18V.
USB: Spark plugged in, 5.04V. Spark unplugged, 5.18V.
Out of curiosity, I measured the current to the spark, dunno if it helps in any way.
PS2: From DC-DC, 113.0 mA. From VCC, 30.50 mA
Converter: From DC-DC 167.0 mA. From VCC 55.8 mA
USB: From DC-DC 68.2 mA. From VCC 58.2 mA
Yup, that’s a problem. The converter isn’t able to crank out enough power to keep the Spark happy.
I’d recommend grabbing one of these:
It’s the same board and parts as the one from circuitsathome, and made by the same guy, so should do the trick.
- to VCC screw termin
- to ground
VCC point to Spark power cable
Just make sure the solder jumper has the 5v side shorted and not the 3v side.
WTF? By ‘Converter:’, you mean the stick is connected via a PSX->RJ-45 cable to a FGWConveter and Chimp combo, yes? So shouldn’t the incoming voltage be 5v? If so, then the in and out currents should very close together, like the ‘USB:’ ones you measured.
Yes, that’s what I meant. Just double checked it, same results. In any case, I’m ordering the other converter.
Just to know, what is needed to put this baby in a vanilla TE?
And could I have a quote estimation for shiping to France? =)
If you’re only going to be using USB, you don’t need a DC-DC converter. You just need to connect the additional harness to the VCC line, which can be accessed from the red USB wire, or easier to solder to would be the point labeled “USB VCC” on the TE turbo panel in the top left corner, like this (If using Xbox 360):
If using PS3 TE, then can solder to the PCB on the other side to where the red USB wire is connected.
Nice, thanks. 
Also worth noting that if you can’t solder and have 360 TE, you could order up a TE kitty from Toodles with your Spark PCB, and it will allow you to do a solderless dual mod, plus be able to screw in the wire from the Spark to the VCC screw terminal of TE kitty.
Just what I was thinking
So if my understanding is correct, if you are putting a Spark in a universal or PS2 joystick, you need a LiPo boost converter + a LiPo rechargeable battery to maintain 5 volts on consoles that use lower voltages. Seems simple enough.
Doesn’t have to be used with a battery. It can be used with a battery, but it can be soldered to any source via the + and – points labeled on the PCB (+ to VCC and – to Ground of MC Cthulhu). The problem with the one he provided me is that it doesn’t provide enough power to keep the Spark happy, but this one can provide up to 600 mA of current, which will be more than enough.
Ah, OK. Thanks for the protip.
Feedback has all been good so far, so let’s do this.
SPARKS ARE UP FOR SALE!
-Buy now via paypal to be shipped out: $55 each, plus shipping ($6 for priority mail shipping in the US, $12 for Canada/Mexico, $14 for everywhere else), shipping price is good for up to 6 Sparks.
- Run into me in person at Evo: $50 cash each.
-Put a deposit on one to pickup at Evo: $5 paypal each for the deposit, plus $40 cash each on delivery. (This is my ‘cheaper for cash Evo sale’ price)
So, if you want me to mail one, paypal away and it’ll go out asap. If you want to get one cheap at Evo, send a $5 paypal for each one you want to pre-order, and include your name and cell phone number so I can meet with you at Evo. If you want to just chance running into me at Evo to pick one up, your call, but there’s guarantee I’ll have one for you without a pre-order. Far too often, I’ve brought stuff earmarked to sell at Evo to have the other person flake on me, so if you want one, put in a pre-order, and save yourself $5 in the process.
Paypal info is the same as always and in the first post of both threads in my sig.
Please also be aware that I dont have a welcome sheet for these yet; these are a small bag with the Spark, and a1 meter cable for the Spark power . If you’re a techno-peasant, you may want to want until guides and stuff are available to work from.
I have no job or income at the moment, but you just took the last of my PayPal monies hahaha
Deposit sent to get one at EVO… Thanks!