yeah but be aware it is missing the SMD components at the moment so you would have to track those down.
To hook it up is quite easy. Just wire the voltage through it and also connect ground.
What about about a little windup generator with a key?
“Hold up dude, I gotta rewind my stick back up.”
Thanks rtdzign!
That answered my question about wiring up that step-up component!
What is the issue with SMD? Is it something additional to buy to make this Flash unit work with non-PS3 PCBs, or it a piece that Toodles hasn’t incorporated into the Flash PCB?
UPDATE:
I looked up SMD and now know it’s something mounted onto the PCB. (Some websites call PCB’s PWB’s which means the same thing but it’s confusing to non-electricians).
I guess I’m going to wait until Toodles has this further puzzled out. I wouldn’t know where to put the SMD on the Flash PCB (where I assume it would go if not the Step-Up?), and I don’t think all the PCB issues and potential problems have been sorted out, either. That’s why I’ve put myself into ‘patient’ mode (sort of like you have to when driving through LA or Chicago at rush hour!!!) and just occasionally popping up to check on progress.
I hope my comments aren’t just wasting bandwidth. IF I get educated in more of this terminology and circuit building, great. If perhaps my questions and comments reflect some concerns that should be addressed before the PCB goes into full-production, great too! By no means do I want to put additional pressure on Toodles, though.
I know I’m NOT the only guy who wants to potentially mount a Flash PCB in a legacy joystick case.
SMD means Surface Mount Design. It is a style of components or PCBs. Instead of THD, Through Hole Design, where components on a PCB are threaded through and soldered on the other side, Surface mount components are soldered on the same side that they are mounted. SMD boards often have much tinier components because they do not need such long leads to go to the other side, and coupled with the fact that you you are not soldering on the other side, you have the component taking up part of the workable space, it is much tougher than THD assembly. But if that step-up DC-DC converter was THD, it would likely not be smaller than a quarter.
Shit I better get off this!
I think I’ll wait till my bank account is straightened out and we get another run of these.
Wow. 102 is the highest bid at the moment and the lowest is at 86. Some people really really want these for 2010.
yea I’m sure it will get uglier when the final day approaches
I totally agree, I know you’re not the only one who still loves their PS2. But I think you’ll agree that the vast majority of these will be used in setups that have a 5v support; all of the USB systems, PC’s, PS3’s, 360’s, and arcade cabinets.
Just adding the DC-DC step up converter directly to the board is technically possible, but would seriously increase the cost of every board, about $10-12 each by my guesstimation. That’s way too large of a bump to make everyone swallow. Putting the spots on the board for the components to go on, well, that actually could be doable, but I’m a little torn in whether or not to do that; see, it’d up the amount of support work I’d have to do by a bunch (and its already going to be atrocious, trust me. "where’s the +5v on this board"xN), and what’s worse is that soldering the components to the board would be significantly harder for someone to do than to get an existing converter and just connect the three wires, and would save them maybe $5 compared to buying an existing converter. I’ve tried to find other, cheaper solutions to make it work in the range of 3.3v-5v, like the zener diode shunt setup, but the current used on the more common 5v connection was outrageously high.
Believe me, I’ve been juggling that issue for a long time; there’s tons of talk in this thread about it. I’m just not seeing any option that would be better for everyone than using a separate DC-DC converter. It makes the Spark cheaper for everyone and is easier to use, install, and troubleshoot. If you have any ideas of a better option I’m not seeing, I would love to hear it and implement it.
Toodles,
Go ahead and make it PS3/360 ready. That’s easier for you and everybody that’s not concerned about backwards compatibility.
The only thing I ask on my end is a guide to show how to add parts for a PS2 stick or earlier gen console. I can get the parts I need on my own. Figuring out how to install them is not something I think I’d able to do with my electrical knowledge. I was able to solder a Cat5E Ethernet cable onto my MC Cthulu (with those small soldering points!) so I think I can probably handle extra Flash assembly. I just need detailed instructions and diagrams for that work. If I have the instructions and could handle doing the T5 mod and working on smaller connectors, I think most other modders can do the same, too…
I’ve got a PS2 stick (Hori Tekken 5 PCB) that I’d like to add a Flash PCB to, but if worst comes to worst, I’ll probably swap the JLF in that Tekken 5 HRAP case into the the case that has the MC Cthulu. Again, I don’t think the Step Converter would be that big a deal to add on for power purposes.
The MC Cthulu does have a +5V terminal, doesn’t it? Could the Flash PCB be connected to the MC Cthulu for power purposes at all?
I’ll get ahold of the guy who makes that converter we’ve been linking to, see if I can either get a bunch of them off of him for LL to carry, or at least make him promise to keep a good number in stock. Putting up pictures and diagrams of how to wire it should be really easy; frankly, the picture rtdzign put up covers it, but a couple of example pics should be easy with pcb pictures.
The MC Cthulhu doesn’t have any sort of voltage regulation on it; the voltage on the VCC screw terminal will be different on a Playstation than on a USB console; if you’re expecting to play on a PSX or PS2, then installing one of these step up converters is the way to go; it’ll make the voltage going to the Spark an even 5v no matter what console it’s connected to.
That’s great to hear!
That’s good enough for me and anybody else thinking of doing this with the MCC or PS2-native stick.
It doesn’t sound like the Flash would have issues with the PS3 PCB’s but the fact is that I’ve got next to no PS3-native sticks with JLF’s in them! I’m transitioning to an “80% or better Seimitsu” fleet of joysticks! Still wanna keep that original mod job a JLF and probably keep JLF’s in a Limited Edition Mad Catz stick or two.
I do have plans to buy at least two more MC Cthulu’s for customizations and mods on classic cases and probably another one if I get either another Agetec or Art Hong case in the next year. I’m very, very happy with that PCB. It’s worth what I paid for it indeed!
Dimension Engineering also has some very nice power conversion boards, I’ve been using their Negatron board to provide -5 VDC for JAMMA cabinets where the power supply didn’t have it. Their stuff might be more expensive than the one you’ve linked to though.
My apologies if this has been covered before. In a dualmod TE/SE setup, where would you recommend to put the power wire to? Solder to the usb 5v part of the TE pcb, or drop that in the Cthu VCC terminal? I’m just wondering if there will be any conflicts, seeing that those two parts I just mentioned are connected to each other. I’m assuming since everything is common ground that I’d be able to just double up the wires (TE 5v + Spark power) in the Cthu VCC terminal for easier installation, no?
If you have a Cthulhu, connect the power wire to the VCC screw terminal.
Sweet, simple and easy setup. Make sure to include that with those little inserts that come with the Cthu, Imp, etc. that people purchase from LL. GL on the auction, can’t wait to see the product show up at LL! ETA?
Eta tbd
Could the same apply with an FGWidget led board to make lighting on the ps1/2 psooible?
Yup, but frankly the FGW LED Controller can work on 3.3v; the problem is that you will likely not be able to get blue or white LEDs to glow, and you’d have to adjust resistances and all that. If you wanted to use an LED controller and KNserts on a PSX stick, then one of the DC-DC step up boards would be the way to go.
What about with MC Cthuhlu set ups where the power supply could be 3.3v or 5v? Would it be best to add a switch between the two, or is there any way to avoid it so that it adjusts? Or can the board output 5v regardless of 5v going in?
Look up 9 posts.