hey, just putting in more interest i’d buy 2 of these at whatever your chargeing I alwayse wanted to have a go of the sanwa flash.
PaladinCheese casts Potent Cure!!!
Thread’s HP is fully restored!
I don’t care what price you put it at. I’ll buy 4 of them right off the bat when you release it.
1 million dollars!
let’s KEEP THE DREAM ALIVE!
i would be down for 2 maybe 3, go for it dude!!
I stated that I would buy 1 earlier in this thread but I will have to re-think that and maybe buy 3 instead. 1 for my TE, 1 for my HRAP and another to showcase around my neck on a big gold chain, something inbetween what 50 cent and Flava Flave be sporting.
Exactly this.
I’m interested in this replacement too and agree with the pricing structure quoted above. I would buy 2-3 too.
I would buy 3 or 4 of those beasts, need to have a couple of extras just in case !
i definitely want to sell those on my arcade parts webshop if it comes out, people from France are already asking me if i’m gonna get some, hell yeah i want to.
Thread bookmarked.
I’d buy at least two. Can’t wait for you to release these!
Definitely can’t wait. 
I’d need at least one. If the quality is equal to/better than the Ascii, I’ll make it two 
Hey Toodles. Apologies if this has been asked or if you’re thought of it.
Based on what I read from your testing - the housing is needed to separate the optics path, but not for protecting the PCB from harm - is that correct? If that’s the case, does it really need to be injection molded? Could the housing be through vacuum molded plastic? From what I understand it’s quite a bit cheaper, and though it might now be as sturdy the goal is just to shield the LEDs from each other. Hell, you can vacuum mold stuff at home with a vacuum cleaner and parts from the hardware store (though I know you don’t want to be baking every housing yourself!).
Also, is the board itself finalized and ready to go? The last updates you gave on that you needed to make some revisions on it.
The housing also physically locks the board in place. The JLF restrictor plate has a couple of small nubs that rest inside the holes of the microswitches with the normal microswitch board to prevent side to side wiggling, and the thickness has to be same as the original microswitches so theres no wiggling up and down. Because of the strength and precision needed, I don’t think vacuum forming would be a good fit. Add in internal support walls, columns made to go holes in the pcb and be melted from the other side, and vacuum forming is pretty much out.
1. How much would you pay for a kit you had to solder yourself?
$45
2. How much for a ready-to-use already soldered piece?
$60
3. How much for a kit if it did not have the DC-DC converter?
N/A; I have no need of it
4. How much for a ready-to-use piece without the DC-DC converter?
N/A; I have no need of it
5. How many of each would you expect to buy?
Probably just one 
Hi crackbone :3
add me to the list. I’m interested.