practice…and beer…
am i soldering the dot above it or that half moon on top
The first time i did it when i hooked it up to the console the system showed as if the guide button was constantly pressed 
that means you used too much solder and jumped the ground point… you can use either the small point above or the half moon as you describe it… just use less solder… make sure you check to de-solder any leftover spillage to that ground point…
the dot is not attached to the half moon
is that still considered home/guide
http://img16.imageshack.us/img16/6082/mg4861.jpg
can i use the dot next to “s12” as the guide solder point?
The pic in post #28 shows the wire soldered to S12, so that combined with Kuya_Joe’s suggestion would point to that being a yes. :tup:
If you’re going to use the copper contacts that are where the actual button go, this might help:
If your Guide button is permanently activated, there is likely solder connecting the two halves.
yea thats what happened i ended up buying a new pcb so i dont want to do the same on this one
I personally just soldered in a madcats pcb last night.
I was surprised at how easy it was to do.
I had never bothered trying to solder things before.
if its your first time, watch a few youtube videos on soldering. read a few guides.
and after you know the basics, its mostly about a steady hand, and how you hold the wire as it cools after the solder combine.
hold the wire so that it requires no force in any way , as it rests in the solder. thats the trickiest part. that way it wont fall away from the cooling solder pool.
I’m about to stick this board in my Hori EX2 and I have 2 questions. What exactly is the VCC, and is it at all possible to remove the LEDs from the madcatz board and connect the points to the LEDs from the Hori?
Thanks
VCC is Power.
Red wire.
You can remove LED and connect.
Good, shit.
Thanks, bruv.
hey I don’t the the question was answered yet but I’m having trouble getting the solder to stick to the copper siding on the fightpad. will alcohol work to remove the residue because heating the point to make it stick seems a little risky
bump
Please don’t bump the thread, when someone who knows the answer sees the thread it’ll get answered.
Alcohol will do a good job cleaning the board, but if you’re having problems getting the solder to flow to the pad or point, flux may be a bit better geared towards what you’re trying to do.
Hey bud, it sounds like you might be trying to melt the solder onto the tip of your iron and paint it onto the copper because you’re worried about heating the copper directly, this will not work because solder flows towards heat naturally. You must heat the copper directly in order to get some solder flowing onto it, don’t be afraid to heat it up just be careful not to overdo it. If you do not heat any given point for more than 10-15 seconds at a time you should be fine.
Did you tin the wire first? If you did, I’m not sure what the issue is. You can’t really put the solder on directly from the iron, but if you tin the wire, put it to the pad, and apply a bit of heat(on top of the tinned portion of wire), the solder should stick right to the pad and you will have a good connection.
that’s what i tried and then it jostles loose with the slightest bit of pressure. so I’m thinking maybe a tin and glue combo?
if you tin and glue a poor connection you’ll end up with a joint that will end up coming loose, but work intermittently. Best bet is to Tin the Contact and your wire. Should make for an easier joint. Using Flux will make it that much easier.
Don’t glue it down, ever. If you need to change anything, you are pretty much SOL, unless you are fine with killing a soldering Iron tip to melt the glue off. I’m not quite sure what the issue is though. Are your solder joins shiny and smooth? If they are rough and matte, then they are a cold joint and need to be redone.