Obligatory
So in 6 years the answer has not really changed.
So, LS-40 is the one, interesting, thanks for the reply!
Is there any octagonal or circular restrictor for the LS-40 out there?
How does the Hayabusa compare to the rest? Is it just a sexier JLF with a smoother pivot due to it’s V cut housing? Or are there engage and throw differences?
Hayabusa has a slightly longer throw, engage feels the same to me but it probably slightly longer too if I recall from the Hayabusa thread.
No, get the LS-56 if you want an octagon- it’s easily the best octagonal gated lever I’ve used.
This is correct- both the throw and engage points are longer on a Hayabusa than on a JLF. Not shitting on the Hayabusa, but if you’re looking for short throw and tight engage, it’s a poor choice, at least in stock form.
Edit: and the Hayabusa has an enormously fat ass versus the JLF, LS-56, or even the LS-40.
Earlier Hayabusa from the OG Fighting Edge sticks have Omrons thus they have the same engage. After they switched switches the engage lengthened just a hair.
Didn’t know that bit, I was under the impression that they had always had Matsushitas. I do love the feel and pop of Matsushitas, that coupled with the solid gate are my favorite things about the Hayabusa.
thank you for the answers, I think I will try both, LS-40 and LS-56, I tried LS-32 and it was good IMO, now I need a stick for “faster” and smooth moves. I seems LS-56 meets the reqs.
Suzo 500 has very short throw, much shorter than any seimitsu stick, but the tension may break the deal for some people. @hibachifinal talked about using a modified spring setup using seimitsu parts, so if you want to try that go ahead. I enjoy that stick for genres besides FGs. Also good luck getting that stick to fit in your stick, it’s ass fatter than the hayabusa.
Unmodded I would vouch for an LS-40, by far one of my favorite joysticks stock next to the LS-32 and Hayabusa.
Modded I would go for an LS-56 with short throw gate, or possibly no throw gate, both of which are sold at paradise arcade shop.
Alternatively you could try the various JLF mods posted throughout SRK, shmups, and other sites for short throw if you want to stick with a JLF. There are various actuators and stick mods that shorten throw/engage by various amounts, and some have even custom cut their gate.
Also know that short shafts will also reduce throw.
Try a Jlf modded with a Kowal actuator. It tightens up the throw and engage alot. You will have a hard time choosing between that and a stock ls-40. Both are just so darn good! Just waiting to get an actuator for my hayabusa now
Hayabusa with sanwa octa gate with with PAS 1.5lb spring with PAS 0.5mm oversized actuator with short throw ring. Postit cutouts inside the switches as well.
I tried similar mods to a JLF before, considering the Hayabusa is almost a improved JLF with a slightly longer throw. My money is still on a stock LS-40.
Also the Octo gate has a larger opening than a square gate which does lengthen the throw a bit, the short throw ring closes that gap.
You still have to factor in that the LS-40 has a shorter lever than the JLF/Hayabusa.
So paradise arcade sold 2mm jlf actuators but are now sold out…are they ever going to come back in stock? Has anyone used one before?
are they ever going to come back in stock? More than likely but Ask Paradise Arcade, they got their own thread.
Although I find 2mm is too big but your own mileage may vary
I want to chime in again to say there no way a JLF is a short throw joystick, its classified as a long throw joystick and without gate and/or actuator mods (maybe even switch mods) the JLF would stop being a long throw.
There is a upside to having a long throw joystick, you do not have to be as precise with a long throw joystick as you have to be with a short throw.
The JLF is forgiving when it comes to sloppy execution, a short throw isn’t
It all boils down to what you have on hand. If you have to purchase a lever regardless, go with the ls-40. I think we all agree on that being the shortest throw stick in stock form. But if you already have a jlf sitting around, try the Kowal in there. The difference is like night and day. The throw becomes ridiculously short
Or don’t. Seriously no amount of mods are going to make the JLF not feel like a JLF.
Honestly adding a different actuator does not change the JLF that much. Changing the actuator alone does not change the throw just the engage.
Throw is the distance the joy stick level moves engage is the distance the actuator moves to activate the switches.
That actuator does change the throw. The smaller cylinder has a larger OD than the stock one.
Only if that actuator’s upper section effects throw, in most times the after market parts, their top of the bell is the same as the stock including the PA and Kowal actuators.
Gate will effect this too but there aren’t many different size gates for the JLF.
The real factor is the shaft or lever, and the JLF has a very long lever for such a small joystick.
Every other joystick made now with the exception of the Hayabusa has a shorter throw than the JLF.
Worst off is just changing the Actuator and spring does not do that much, I find with a 2.0 or larger oversize actuator the actuator can get caught on the gate.
I see the JLF has all these mods to “try to fix it” and there never good enough from what I see from “JLF” fans.
That’s what I’m telling you, the top is not the same on a kowal actuator. I measured them and posted about it here quite a while back, there’s a difference of .04" or .05" if I recall correctly.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v680/loner92/actuatorcomparisonedit.jpg