Madcatz continue to fail me. It was a faulty wire. I took one of the black wire from the 5 pin connector and swapped it with the one that wasn’t working and what do you know, it works. Madcats just took away an hour of my life!!!
So just to clarify… If I’m having a problem with one of my button’s responsiveness, replacing it with a Sanwa part will fix it?
It’s not a huge problem, but occasionally (rarely) inputs won’t register. I know I could send it back to MadCatz, but I don’t want to go 6 weeks without a stick when the problem is something that doesn’t really pose an enormous problem. Ordering the buttons and swapping them out when they get here would be a better solution, assuming it actually fixes it.
I guess I’m Lucky my standard edition has been flawless. I’m getting my parts akihabara shop either today or monday.
Will these be available in stores anytime soon?
Well, I just got my stick back from MC today and after about 30 min of play, so far so good. I may eventually still get JLF though cause pulling off some moves with this stick almost seem harder than the crappy 360 d-pad
Have you checked you PCB though? It could be working fine but still scraping away at the PCB, so it won’t be fine very long if so. But I guess it doesn’t really matter if your swapping them out anyway :china:
After 2 weeks of play with my SE stick, the inputs starting getting stuck (i guess the PCB is rubbing away) and my character continues jumping or walking back or forwards on their own.
But i’m not gonna send the stick in to madcatz, gonna replace the stick and gate with sanwa stick and gate instead (the buttons are fine).
OK… So my brother was playing today. Just training… Then the SE just stopped working. I went to check it out, and it’s legit-ly not working. There was no previous grinding sound. No button inputs are working (on main PS3 menu). But, the turbo lights flash a little… just a little. But only sometimes.
Any idea what happened to it?
Man… just plugged it into my mac and it’s not working on ST either. D:
What can I do with it now???
I have the same PCB issue some of you have been experiencing. My Roundhouse button and the button next to it stop working. When I unplug the controller and plug it back it in, it starts working again. Is there a better solution to this problem? I read about 14 pages of this thread and couldn’t find any real solutions.
Going through this thread is giving me a hard time since I just pre-ordered 2 SE in my local GameStop (in Germany btw :shy:)
Actually I was looking to get a HRAP3 but it’s simply impossible to get here (It’s not sold in Germany AT ALL and import isn’t available form stock either and ~120$ min…)
So my choice was between the Hori FS3 and the SF4:SE :lame:
I went for the SE because it should be way easier to mod (which I’m going to do anyway) and it’s ‘only’ 20 difference
So I’m not really worried about the ‘washer-issue’ or loose QDs when I’ll replace buttons and the stick but what really worries me is the main PCB.
There are some posts in this thread that sound like buttons/stick got replaced but STILL don’t work or the stick stops working all together until unplugged, which sound like an PCB issues of some kind to me :shake:
**Is there any ‘confirmed’ report of issues with the main PCB? **(like some buttons didn’t work, but replacing the main PCB got them working again etc.)
I planned on buying this as base for futher modding but if the main PCB is faulty as well what is left of the stick working… just the case 
Is there any European that send his/her stick back to MadCatz? Would really appreciate if they could share their experiences
I came to gamestop a few days after the release of SF4 and was surprised to see a cancelled preorder for the SE stick. Excited, i purchased it and brought it home. After using it for a few games I found that mine had several problems. Buttons randomly stopped working but fixed after replugging. The up-left, down-left, and down-right randomly didn’t work as well. Returned it asap. Didn’t want to risk wasting money on parts if the pcb was screwed. Just have to wait a month or so more for my TE’s to come in.
Just wanted to re-state something I put in another thread. I saw this earlier in here as well.
Do not curiously remove the buttons unless you intend on replacing them.
I bought an SE fight stick retail. I popped one of the buttons to see how the snap-ins worked and one of the snap-in nubs decided to commit suicide. GG Mad Catz. The button no longer holds firmly and swivels about in the case. I’m now convinced that snap-ins are the antichrist even if Mad Catz’s cheap buttons are just to blame. I’ve got some screw-ons on the way.
How long did it take you to get it back from the time you sent it in? Still waiting on mine sent it a week and a half ago.
is da pencil trick guarentee to work? i tried dat and glued washer and i still cant go left
I’ve taken apart my joystick and realized I’m also a victim of the washer defect.
Here is a picture of my pcb.
http://img13.imageshack.us/img13/7910/pcb2.jpg
What I want to ask is, is the board beyond repair? Or can I repair it with a solder iron? If it is possible, can someone give me some tips as to the tools I’ll need and some directions as to how to repair the board?
Thanks
P.S. sorry for the large image. Hope the resize is better
is there a remedy for unresponsive buttons? i mean from the picture it’s just wires clamped into the button wire tabs. are a lot of people getting problems pressing certain buttons?
there is indeed
its about 20 bucks plus shipping for 6 new buttons and 2 button plugs
and yes they are hooked up with quick disconnects
Apparently you can re-draw the lines in with a number 2 pencil (the “lead” has carbon in it) so you might want to give that a try if you dont want to or cant solder.
I can’t be sure from the picture, but if the traces aren’t worn all the way through (e.g., if they aren’t cut), then your problem might just be the washer shorting out the neighboring traces. If that’s the case (i.e., the traces are intact enough to conduct electricity), then what you need is just to replace the insulating layer on top of the PCB. In other words, put some electrician’s tape over the traces and see if that does the trick.
more of the same.
got my se a week ago only to realize the upper left diagonal input doesn’t register, or rather it registers one time in ten. tried it as both dpad and left stick and still nothing.
voided the warranty. wrestled the restrictor gate off, which was a chore by itself, only to find that my pcb board is fine. i glued the washer down anyway, crossed my fingers, and put it back together. still nada.
i still managed to beat the game, but found it really frustrating. other than that, i really don’t like the feel of the square gate. i feel way more comfortable with the standard ps3 pad.
guess i’ll be ordering my jlf soon. however, since i feel more comfortable with the full circular motion of the ps3 pad would it make more since to order an octagon or full circle restrictor gate?