I’ve looked and looked and to no avail found a clear, cohesive guide on how to even go about setting this up. I’m planning to purchase one within the next week and am looking to connect my xbox 360 to it but know next to nothing about this besides general soldiering.
Any help or direction would be a great help.
I suggest looking for another cab. I don’t recommend playing on 480i. Try looking for a Blast City, Egret 2, Naomi, Atomiswave because they have a high resolution monitor. Some of them even have VGA input. Do more research and see if you want a tri-sync monitor.
As far as buttons. You would just have to padhack the 360 controller.
This website has a lot of info on what you need to do.
I appreciate it highly! You definitely put things into perspective for me.
Arcade Otaku looks really awesome but can’t seem to answer the question to register an account “What is the typical name given to Japanese plastic/metal arcade cabinets?”, that’s how little I know about sticks. -____-
Candy Cab.
Damn! After googling a while, I used “Candy Cabinet” but was my last chance before I had to wait X amount of time – pretty close. Thanks bruh!
http://www.neo-geo.com/forums/showt…khz-converters.-Which-one-to-choose&p=3171960
some good info here for you
Great source of information, 10,000 thank you’s aren’t enough.
no problem
You can also ask me any specific questions about candy cabs in general,I have a large collection of them and have put systems in many aswell.or just pm me for my number and I can answer whatever.
The Astro City is a great cab. If you just want to hook your 360 up to it, there are nice solutions out there such as this:
Just buy an Advanced Scart cable from Microsoft off eBay and connect your padhacks, Paewangs or PS360s to those green screw terminals and you’re done. 31kHz interlaced looks really great actually with this unit, sure it flickers a bit in menus, but during gameplay it’s golden. And it’s basically plug and play.
Get this cool piece of kit from: http://etim.net.au/scart2arcV20 ($115 Australian + shipping)
If you want to run other consoles such as PSX/PS2/Dreamcast, just use the multi-console controller PCB of your choice instead of a padhack or the above mentioned ones. Only the 360 is incapable of outputting 240p arcade resolutions, but most PS2, PSX and Dreamcast games will.
Just bought an Astro City Cab off of GlockNyne. I think I’m in the same boat as ChiefxIronLung was in regards to figuring this stuff out, but I’ve been reading up on it for the past couple hours. I figure this thread is my best bet in getting my questions and queries answered as opposed to starting a new thread.
I think where I need to start is figuring out what kind of monitor I have in my astro city, I think I remember Glocknyne saying it was a 15Hz one, and not the trisync one. What I want to do at the moment, is hook my 360 up into the astro city’s guts.
post in neo geo arcade central
The post above you by emphatic is what you need for the best possible output for your Astro City cab…
Here is a pic of a tate Astro w/ Viletims’s console adapter connected w/ 360…
That sounds like a good ideal, maybe I’ll make an account if I don’t get what I need from this thread, but I think I can get most of the information I need from everyone here
Thanks! That’s a great setup, I wondered what an atomiswave cab looked like, now I know. The viletim console adapter looks like a good way to go, but I’ve also had recommendations to pick up a UVC. Incidentally, there’s an article all about it on Emphatic’s blog. There’s also a project box made by someone over at the arcade control forums
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=111796.0
I’m leaning more towards this UVC setup because I already have the VGA cables for 360 and Dreamcast ready to go. Where would I get a UVC and a jamma edge? Also, is there some kind of pinout diagram for a Jamma edge, how you would wire up a DC or 360 padhack to it?
The viletims’s console adapter looks easier, due to the zero soldering involved. Is there a difference in picture quality?
Yes Viletim’s console adapter is supposedly the best picture quality available & easiest way to hook up your controls…Only its a bit more expensive…
I think i’ve seen those UVC for sale on ebay, also someone from neo-geo was selling them awhile back…
Someone compared the picture quality on this thread
http://shmups.system11.org/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=32188
Hmmm, this makes me want to get a viletims’s console adapter, and I’ll just buy the SCART cables and the Viletims are readily available from lizard lick. Also this answers another question I had, I was just gonna use MC Cthulhu boards and then use the xtokki 360 adapter to plug into the 360 and I believe that should work since I saw the guy in the link use hacked PSX pads and use converters from there.
I looked inside and saw that I have a toshiba monitor setup. I need to plug this puppy in and see if the monitor starts up. What do I do if my monitor doesn’t turn on? Is it as simple as replacing a tube or something?
Thanks for all the help and advice! Very much appreciated. 
I have Taito EGRET II cabinets (same monitor as in SEGA New Astro City, NANAO MS9 chassis/Toshiba tube) and I suggested the viletim adapter solution above as it’s the most straightforward one. No soldering needed whatsover, super-easy to troubleshoot and you can’t damage anything (unless you connect the viletim upside down to the JAMMA harness in the cabinet). I didn’t get a working picture with the viletim and XBox 360 “out of the box”, but when I screwed in that huge, white capacitor that you will get when you buy the viletim adapter to the adapter’s +5V and GND (green screw terminals) and tried again, everything worked.
The UVC solution is also great, but does require soldering, locating parts to create the harness for it and if you’re not used to soldering etc, it’s better to go with the viletim adapter. Both solutions are great for different reasons.
i agree with this
I didnt’ know you can get viletim’s adapter at lizardlick, really its a no-brainer then to go with that…
I fired up the astro city last night. I plug the power cable into the wall, flip the switch in the back to the “ON” position. Then I make my way to the front and connect the JAMMA harness to a CPS2 Super Street Fighter, and then I flip the “ON” switch on the Power Supply inside the cabinet and everything turns on! The light bar at the top lights up, the sound is coming through, and there’s even a picture on the screen! SWEET! So I open the coin door to flip the token sensor to put in credits and when I open the coin door the screen goes black. Credits go in though. So I turn everything off and back on again hoping to just reset it and the problem will go away, but the screen stays dark. I still get sound and the buttons respond and all that, just no picture.
Anybody got a clue what I should do?