Sega Stick Appreciation Thread!

Thanks on the Comments. The MK stick is incredible…LOVE IT!

I got my breakouts from ebay…

DB25 Female Signals Breakout Board parallel port - eBay (item 380319572408 end time Mar-26-11 10:04:35 PDT)

I havent seen anyone with the MVC3 artwork done… i need to post up about the HSS sized movelist…

My Tri-Modded Agetec

The Insides

That. Is. Sick.

I saw alot of Agetec mods, none I saw keep the VMU slot functional.
Hence a Tri-mod. i am thinking of adding a DB 25 port, so I can connect some project boxes to this and expand what systems I can play with this stick

That VSHG mod gives me a boner. Nice job! What did you use and how to paint the mini buttons at the top white?

Also rememinds me of an all black VSHG I saw posted here some months ago: Wireless VSHG (blacked out) | Flickr - Photo Sharing!

Didn’t even know about this thread, here are my Sega sticks…

My HSS-0130, New Net City art with 2 PS360 PCBs…

Custom Lindbergh Stick, official panel with PS360 PCB…

Stock Virtua Stick High Grade…

More pictures on my Flickr Page…
Flickr: N10248’s Photostream

Love the lindbergh and new net city art.

… And the interior space is the reason why I think the Agetec is the best small retro joystick base. Lots of room to fit small PCB’s there. (When I can afford it, I’m putting an MC Cthulu in my Agetec mod!)

The only caution is that modders really shouldn’t cut off more than half of the support columns at the back interior of the joystick. I could be wrong but I think they’re there for interior structural strength. That’s the place above which most people will lie their button hands on (the case exterior) and it needs structural reinforcement. The top face of the Agetec could collapse over time without the reinforcement in the area. When you install the LS-32-01 in that joystick case, you unfortunately do have to do a lot of cutting and sanding in that base area… and I just didn’t find it possible to install the -32 comfortably without cutting half the column immediately behind it.

The 2 big structural columns you saw me cut into didn’t change the integrity of the stick for me.
As the real support is still provided by the screw columns and the top and bottom panels.

I also did some experiments on the Agetec joystick if anyone interested.
http://shoryuken.com/f177/agetec-sanwa-jlf-experimentation-comparison-272680/

Long story short, I think I found a way to improve the stock joystick. Using a JLF pivot the stick feels more like a JLF.
Fixing a joystick with a 95 cent part verse replacing it with a $22 joystick.
You Seimitsu guys are still on your own.

I’ve found still found a use for my Agetec VMU slots…

===> light-up artwork!

You prep VMU art and send it in to Art Hong at the same time you order a plexi replacement top, then head over to Radio Shack for an LED and two-AA battery pack to supply the juice for the LED. I recommend blue or red LED’s. (Red LED’s are cheaper and come in two-packs but I wouldn’t use them for everything…)

Keep your old Agetec Start button and switch with a bit of old lead wire cut off from the Sega PCB and solder the switch onto wiring for the battery pack and LED leads.

Voila! Lights up and gives you a nice glow-in-the-dark show for late-at-night or six-month pitch black in Alaska. ( <=== Insomnia is the reason I’d NEVER move to Alaska. I like my sunrises and sunsets… not perpetual light or perpetual darkness!)

I’ve been creating artwork for the VMU… I have 5 Agetec art mods and associated VMU light-up art created already. Doubt I’ll MOD 5 Agetec’s this year – or any year – but it’s a nice way to sharpen my Photoshop skills…

P.S. – Over the weekend, I’ve discovered that the Agetec top metal faceplate is NOT painted. There is a thin plastic coating on it, and it’s on there permanently. You can’t peel it, sand it, OR cut it off cleanly with a razor blade. It’s on there really tight!

Near as I can figure, the only way you could get this plastic coating off cleanly is to dissolve it with something acidic that hopefully won’t destroy the metal itself. Someone mentioned using brake fluid for dried paint but I don’t know how well that would work in this case.

I know others of us have replaced the metal faceplates with Lexan faceplates traced from the original faceplate and Art Hong acrylic plexitops.

@N10248 - you sir, are SEGA!

I’ll make sure to post some SEGA stuff soon :wink:

I am aware of VMU slot light up mods, they can be cool. As for the Surface of the top plate of the Agetec, I though it was a plastic layer and not paint when I was grinding the button holes on my panel wider. Only other option I know for that top panel is to replace it with a custom panel. Tek Cases has a Agetec replacement plexy. If I ever get my hands on a 2nd Agetec I need to make templates for possible panel replacements, maybe get one to other modders like Blk Lighting for Metal panel replacements.

Also I got no idea what I would put into my Agetec VMU slot for art.

That breakout board in the dual stick is brilliant. I might have to do that with the next stick I mod!

Found it! Been looking for this thread for some time. New link added to the knowledge-base.

Very simple artwork, logos, or symbols work best. It’s not a huge window for the art and simple images show up best small.

You just have to experiment with Photoshop or another image editor to see what works best.
Art Hong, as usual, has the Template for the VMU slot.
My main concern with the VMU acrylic art is to not get accidently cracked it something pushes down on it. You use two of the VMU holder screws to fasten the VMU art into place. There’s no ribbing or anything else in the Agetec case to support the VMU window art. You have to craft your own supports if you’re concerned about that.

It would be cool if someone could reproduce the plastic base of the HSS-0130. Then you could get an official panel from AKI-shop and have an awesome sega stick. I would love to have an HSS-0130 with original versus city art.

That would be very awesome, seeing as I just got a panel from an HSS-0130.

Ask some sellers on ebay. Someone I know got a base off a blast city for 100$ off of an ebay seller by asking. Some sellers have bases in the trading outlet every now and then too…

I see a couple of people selling astro cities, i’ll send them a message and see what happens. My friend and I were also thinking about building a wooden base for the panel. Are there any measurements of the astro/HSS-130 base?

Not too sure. I know a seller on here a while back made some custom boxes for Astro Panels. Maybe ask around in the trading outlet if anyone has one they’d like to sell.