Got my Flash in today(haven’t tried it out yet though), but I didn’t get the buttons I added. Just checkin’ up. Thanks.
Fuck you! We don’t look kindly on these kinds of posts in Tech Talk. Enjoy your infraction.
Hey guys just wanted to give some info also. My Flash1 actually came in the mail today (USPS is pretty crappy about updating their stuff). Anyways, I finally installed it in my Fight Stick PRO that I modded with the Kitty. Anyways, I seem to be having the same problem in terms of directional inputs. Everything registers except for UP. Will do some more tinkering. I’ll let you guys know if I find anything worth noting.
a word of caution. cutting/grinding a little too much may ruin the whole thing
Have you resolved your issue yet? I’m a little weary about sanding the PCB…
not at all. i think the pcb shifted when it was being made or cut. even when everything fits, the up direction still doesnt seem to work.
also noticed that the center of the pcb (where the shaft goes through) doesnt line up properly with the metallic washer on the jlf bracket. its biased towards one of the directions (depending on where you’re facing) meaning it seems maybe it isnt lining up properly or wasnt cut properly maybe?
i think i may take the wait and see approach. im no expert in cutting and working pcb’s and my ham fists arent fit for working at such minuscule proportions.
So I tried rotating the PCB around just to see if there was something else to it, but it’s specific only to the same side of the PCB. It’s as if the stick is not able to trip the IR signal (or whatever it is) and therefore can’t register an input. I’m done with this for now, need to go to seep.
i think this is the issue with mine as well. one of the holes doesn’t line up with my jlf so when it’s installed with the gate, i can’t move in one direction because the actuator isn’t close enough to the sensors to register.
i’ve tried testing the flash without the cover, with the cover and they both work fine electronically but they must be held in a position above the holes so that the pcb doesn’t sit lop-sided in the jlf. but when you try to put it altogether, for me, one direction doesn’t work unless i pull up the shaft and push in that direction so the actuator is close enough to the sensors to register.
i think the easy solution is to widen the hole a little bit, but i’ll see what pony and punkpc have to say about our theory.
Looks like I should be more concerned about build consistency instead of performance. Having worked with a handful of bulk pcb’s I’m not sure about the material, would those become soft enough under some heat to be basically bent either out or in to make the holes line up?
I contacted Rollie today to send me one of the batches that just came from the factory. Soon as I get one I will see what i can figure out.
I am sitting with the engineers today. Working on the solution.
I will post results here.
If your board is not working correctly please send your name and address to john@rollieelectronics.com
Thank you,
Ponyboy
BEFORE CUTTING ANYTHING, CONSULT PONYBOY, PUNKPC, OR ROLLIE ELECTRONICS.
initial results of cutting the nubs of the uncircled holes: up direction no response.
PCB dremel test
http://i1245.photobucket.com/albums/gg594/defghui/test1.jpg
result: down direction no response.
i dremelled the holes in the orange circles and now it fits snugly. BUT now its just a question of positioning. testing the stick, the down function did not work.
upon further inspection it seems the positioning has caused the D4 and Q4 to lose visual contact as it is still obstructed by the joystick.
conclusion?
its really just fine tuning positioning at this point. but im afraid if its been dremelled anymore it will just slide left and right.
Dremel is usually always the final solution for me. Sadly that may not work this time. I hope you manage to fix yours soon. I’ll just not touch mine until ponyboy or punkpc has some more info.
I did take the dremel to a couple of mine. If you dremel the hole directly under the words Perfect 360 it will work. You need to make it more of an oval than a circle. Check out PunkPC’s pic above. Keep in mind that the board does not have to sit firmly. The gate will keep it locked in. If you attempt this please make sure that you do NOT disturb the optics. If you want to mess with it don’t worry I will replace the board anyway. I am waiting on an answer from Happ’s engineering team to see how we will move forward.
Thanks,
Ponyboy
has anyone tried this ^?
I tried sand the hole to make it wider with the dremel. I only sanded a small amount for fear of damaging the PCB. For what it’s worth, after sanding, it still didn’t work. I probably could have done it more, but I figure I’d just wait it out. Maybe someone else has had success with this???
I think I can see why it won’t sit properly. The soldering points on the bottom stick out to far. I’m gonna try to shorten them and see what happens.
Yep, that was it. You just gotta cut the soldering point down so it doesn’t stick out so far. I dremeled the shit outta those holes and was like “It should fit.” Then I took the housing out and looked at it sideways. I could see the soldering points hitting the bottom of the housing. I hope this helps some of you with this problem, you might still need to dremel the holes, but cut the soldering points first.
I haven’t wired it up yet to see if it works properly though.
CerebralVortex, is correct. Some of the soldering points on the back are too long, not all but some. Cut them down. Please don’t worry about screwing up the board. I will send another after the boards are corrected.
Thanks,
Ponyboy
I wired it up real quick in my hrap vx and I got it working. I didn’t test it in game though. I just checked to see if all the directions were registering, and they all seemed to work fine. I just did a quick test though, nothing extensive.