RJ-45 Multi Console Cthulhu Arcade Stick Tutorial Ver.2

Tech Talk
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I found out something else about the 3do wiring today. I bought some of those cheap Naki 3do controllers that are on ebay all the time so that I could sacrifice the cabling, that cable doesn’t even have wiring going to pins 1 and 2, which is V and G! What the hell? I found a 3do controller schematic, and pin 8 is also ground, and pin 5 is also voltage.

If anyone uses one of those Naki controllers as a sacrifice, the coloring is G=Orange, A=Red, C=Yellow, F=Brown, and V=Green.

Yeah, I know I’m probably the only person who actually wants to use their stick on a 3do, but hey, someone else might want to do this and maybe I can help save someone a half hour or so it takes to figure this out.

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Just added spoiler tags to minimize scrolling to sift through what info I need. I kind of found that often I only need a little nugget of info and added spoiler tags to help hide the info I don’t exactly need at the moment.

Scrolling around while the page was loading and moving around kind of annoyed me, and I figured it would annoy somebody else. Let me know if it was a good idea or if I should take them out.

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Did the Xbox one disappear or am I just blind?

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Fantastic Post rtdzign. I usually refer to this thread when I’m making up cables and now you have seperated it into smaller spoilers it’s quicker to get to the information that I’m looking for :tup: so yea, I DO like :wgrin:
Also I think your right toodles… a suggestion to rtdzign would be to change:

option

Spoiler

Part 3: Making a USB Cable
to
Part 3: Making a USB/xbox1 Cable
and maybe add this or a similar image in that section aswell.[/details]

Now down to business… :rofl:

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[details=Spoiler]I currently have an xbox360 SE dual modded with an MC Cthulhu PCB, I am using 8 pin DIN plugs and have a DPDT switch to toggle the D and E on my DIN between D+ and D- on the two pcb’s respectfully. Everything is wired up and fully working perfectly :slight_smile:

Here is the schematic

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[details=Spoiler]I have had an idea but not sure how to implement it into my particular situation.

My idea is to internalise a usb hub into this setup… It would be straightforward if I was using usb only as my source, I could have the hub, connect both boards to the hub and not even bother with a DPDT switch or I could splice a wire coming from one of the hub outs and goto VCC, Ground and DPDT switch accordingly.

BUT… This I cannot do because I would like to retain multi-console functionality of the MC cthulhu and be able to switch between the hub being in use or not…

I use this stick on my sega saturn and due to it not using usb as standard I am unsure if I can safely ‘extend’ those four wires through the hub and into the respective points on the Cthulhu (Or ideally taking the data lines to my existing DPDT switch)

Also to note I plan on attaching a storage device internally so I will mention now as I don’t want to bork anything up IE: not enough power getting from the saturn to the cthulhu or too much power flow and screwing the memory stick up… or worse?! (I’m a little unsure how hubs work)

Ok so onto the good stuff… I wouldn’t mind using an IMP to switch the data lines to the hub so then I can hold guide+cable insert = mode2=hub, or just connect cable normally to have how it act the same as how it is now.

This is where I got stuck with the circuit and how I could potentially make it. I know I didn’t draw anything coming from the controller out because at this point I don’t know if I could terminal the 1D- and 1D+ wires together with the controller out D- and D+ wires at the DPDT switch.

I decided to do more schematics to try and work it out…
After doing much reading, learning and trying to understand what I am looking to do, I figure that a diode (In correct orientation) on the VCC and ground lines from the controller out would be a good idea so I have included them in the following diagrams…

Something Like This (would be ideal… So I can hold guide when plug cable in to activate hub)

Or would the closest I could get to my ideal would be this alternative…

Then I considered what about the power flow… the power runs into the stick>IMP>hub and I have a usb memory stick attached aswell, what about data… what if I’m running this in my saturn… so back to the drawing board again, but add a DPDT switch for power and ground. Like this, I also drew up an alternative version

Finally, (and within my original thoughts) I figured that I could just use 2x DPDT switches for entirely switching all 4 lines between how it is now and with the hub like this However, I have marked a spot in purple with a Question Mark because I’m not sure if it could cause a problem and /or if a couple of diodes or something would do the trick.

Ideally I would like to use the IMP… even if I need to use a combination of DPDT to direct VCC+GND and the IMP for the data lines.
Any help, tips or ideas to help me potentially pull this off would be much appreciated.
[/details]

Cheers

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Thanks for the suggestion on xbox, edited first post. I kinda forgot about the xbox because it is my least played system now and I’m not sure the dvd in mine loads games anymore. Not even sure where I stored it.

As for the other 2 things,cool stuff with the Din 8.

The USB Hub Idea is something I have no idea on how to help, as I would have the same questions you posed.

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Glad my suggestion seemed fit for the cause :wgrin:

I’ve been trying to get my head around putting this into a ‘final’ schematic for a good while now… Now after a week or two of struggling with ideas, I finally decided to post up in here…
I have spent a good portion of today drawing up those schematics. So I thank you for at least taking a moment of your time to have a read and share your thoughts. :wink:

My other thoughts are a single 4pDT (expensive and hard to find round here)

I also think Bencao’s Master Stike PCB should do it… but rather than spending out extra cash on something that I should be able to achieve with 2x DPDT switches would seem quite odd…

I would rather make use out of the IMP and DPDT’s that I have available here.
If anyone could help or shed any light on any of my questions (in my last post) it would be very much appreciated.

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Toodles just added Dreamcast support, and I added the pinouts. It is still beta. I haven’t tested this out myself yet since I haven’t gotten an extension cord for Dreamcast yet, but here it is.

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Nice job. It’s great to have everything in one place. :china:

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So, I’ve been having the most bizarre issue with my current multi-console mod and while I’m unsure of the exact issue I felt this was the best place to discuss this.

Components:
Round 2 TE
MC Cthulhu
Imp
Mini-Din Connector
Stranded Cat5 for wiring

The goal is a Multi-Console stick that utilizes a Mini-Din connector at the end of a Cat5 cable in order to switch the cabling for each system. This is stick 2 of 2 I’m modding like this for a customer. Stick 1 of 2 is modded the exact same way and functions fine with no issues. This stick however will not let the 360 be recognized but will recognize the MC Cthulhu (functions fine). I’ve run the gambit of tests (listed below) and have found 0 resolution to this issue. My searches have not produced one similar case (although searching something this unique even if it does exist doesn’t mean it’s easy to find).

Tests:
1.) 360 PCB fried. Negative, connected a USB cable directly to the PCB and it functions fine.
2.) Imp not functioning. Negative, I perform a multitude of tests as follows:
2a. Went through the trouble-shooting guide on the Imp thread first page and the Imp passed as working.
2b. Tried 360 in slot 1. Still no recognition.
2c. Tried PS3 in slot 2. PS3 recognized fine as usual.
2d. Swapped D+ and D- on the 360 to Imp connection. Still no recognition.
2e. Replaced the Imp with a new one. Re-ran all the tests. Still no recognition.
3.) Connected the Cat5 to Mini-DIN cable directly to the 360 PCB. Still no recognition.
4.) Replaced the Cat5 out and Mini-DIN with new ones. Still no recognition.

The only thing I have yet to try is swapping the 360 PCB but that is because I don’t have a spare to try. It seems like the cabling is the issue but that just doesn’t make any sense considering I’ve successfully done this mod with the same exact cabling.

Anyone have any other thoughts? This bastard has burned me out something fierce.

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I used your DC pinout and it works perfectly.

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Thanks for the fantastic tutorial, you made this whole process very painless even for a complete noob like me. I’d like to suggest that you maybe specify that when attaching the cord to the connector that you don’t strip the inner wires. I know you don’t say TOO strip them, but there are some ass-heads like me who like to assume things :confused:

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Does anyone know the correct colours for a Saturn cable? I can’t work it out. Ie:

[Saturn {

  1. G = White
  2. A = Yellow
  3. B = Orange
  4. C = Black
  5. D = Grey
  6. E = Brown
  7. F = Green
  8. V = Red
    }]

That, but not incorrect. Any help appreciated.

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You should get a multimeter first, sometimes colors in cables are not the same in every cable/controller

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As torta said, it could be that color setup.
It could be different, theres no way to tell if two cables are the same colors, even with two official pads, companies will use whatever they can get.

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The above reasons is why I don’t list colors for certain cables.

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http://akihabarashop.jp/images/SaturnPin.jpg

I got the cord picture from SRK (sorry I forgot who it is from, please post if you want me to take it down) and I made the drawing myself. Picture should be correct.

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I believe on my Saturn extension cable Voltage was a white wire, so even though it was on pin 1. You can never trust the colors to be ordered to the same pins cord to cord.

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I also tested the DreamCast pinout by RTdzign and it worked great in 3rd strike

139

Yeah I agree. Atleast the picture shows where the wire should go.

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Pretty annoying, but I’ve ordered a multimeter so yeah. Is there no way of opening the plug at the end? There seems to be but I don’t want to damage it. Doesn’t matter too much if it can’t be done, just interested.

Dreamcast cable is working great though, cheers for that.