This is a supergun design I’ve done a couple of times and just decided to make a worklog thread for the few I’m working on now leading up to NEC. To the supergun newbie, this can serve as a tutorial you can honestly follow yourself with some basic dremeling and soldering. To those more experienced, I hope you’ll offer your advice on what I can do to improve this.
Parts list:
To keep things simple, I’m just gonna put down what I used.
psx case (fat)
Ebay broken ones usually go cheap. If you get an early model with a cxa1645 chip, you’ll want to desolder that first if possible; they’re worth at least $5.
Very nice. I’m actually just about finished with mine though it’s going to be in a cardboard box for now. I took pictures every step of the way and am planning to write up a blog post on it soon. Just finished the last of the soldering last night so when I get home from work today it’s just plug everything in and cross my fingers.
Yeah, I agree, and it would also allow for using a psone mini I see this guy used a picopsu and fit his supergun inside a small stick http://forum.arcadeotaku.com/viewtopic.php?f=18&t=15722
I would definitely be interested in your specific dcdc board when you decide to make them available.
Edit: minor update this weekend with the fgwidget converters. I got sidetracked with a project involving 2 mas sticks…
I’m using a standard jamma harness/wiring, so it should work fine except for the extra buttons. I tend to forget that there are jamma games besides cps2/3 that use more than 3 buttons According to this http://gamesdbase.com/media/system/arcade/manual/formated/killer_instinct_-1994-_rare,_ltd…pdf KI uses a separate harness similar to a cps2/3 kick harness. Same idea, it just uses a different connector to the board.
I think I might upgrade to a PS2 Fat shell. Probably easier to fit a psu from a computer into it as well as reuse the ac jack. I’d reuse the A/V jack and see if I could fit the JAMMA connector inside the harddrive bay for storage when not in use. I’ll use both the ps2 controller port and eventually the usb ports for when undamned finishes the usb decoder.
Using that PicoPSU in a PS2 Slim shell would also be interesting.
For me it seems fitting to use a PS2 shell since I’ll be playing CPS2 games.
Yeah, the ps2 fat is actually a much more accommodating enclosure; it was the first one I used. There’s plenty of room for the p/s, the ac jack has a switch, the power/reset buttons can serve as test/service buttons—even the ps2 fan can be used. And I really like the idea of using the existing usb slots for inputs There’s just one problem: they’re ridiculously expensive on ebay! For some reason even broken ps2’s still go for around $40 each, even in large lots. Have to find them on craigslist…
I don’t recommend the short hideaway option for the jamma connector. I tried that originally but then ended up re-wiring it for full length harness. The problem is it has to be inconveniently short to fit in there, like 10" or so, and then I always found it difficult to position the ps2 on/next to an arcade board when in use.
I’m super jealous of how clean it looks. Since I’m still ironing out issues with mine I have a mess for 50-something 3-5’ wires laying all over the floor of my office. Once I’ve got it all working I may try to put it into a fat PS2 case or something, I haven’t decided yet. At first I was just going to basically toss it all in a cardboard box but after all the time I’ve been spending on it I definitely want to get it into a nice, secure enclosure.
Updated 1st post
Basically done with this except for final wire management. I’ll include more pics when I get everthing tidy in there—as much as I can anyway. I’ll also have a couple of pics of another one I’m doing with a few differences.
Thanks for the comments so far, hope this motivates someone out there to give it a try
Mostly just my internal DC/DC power board. No need to fill the entire case with a power supply.