Had another question trying to make one but i still dont get the part for the Toodles FGWidgets for playstation controller inputs ive seen you need to connect the converters with the harness, you need a DB15 male soldering cup and need to get a psx extension cable but i dont see it here on your tutorial since your using a ps1 console do you need that.Also can you put the Gonbes cga to vga hd arcade converter (gbs-8220) on it.
Yes, the jamma wires for the directions and buttons need to go to the converters, but you don’t need the db15 or the psx extension because you’re using the controller ports on the psx case. As seen here http://www.flickr.com/photos/deepthoughts/6321307978/ these take the place of the psx extension cables. That is, the “ACK”, “N/C”, “CLK”, etc. on the converters go to the solder points on the back of the psx controller points.
That gbs-8220 should work fine functionally, but it is probably too large to fit in the psx case. If you want to use it, I recomment putting it in an external enclosure.
DeepThoughts, definitely let me know how the new chips/kits for for you. rivals is happy with his, so I’m waiting on your thumbs up before I send them far and wide.
Will have time to make the swaps tomorrow night, and I’ll let you know how it goes.
oh ok cool thanks for answering my questions but i will be using a ps2 case hopefully the gbs-8220 fits there since i wanna use the fan and the power switch.
No problem, and post up some pics as you go 
Oh, one thing I wanted to mention about the psx converters’ button mapping ability. As Toodles mentions in his thread, the way to use this feature is to hold start+select for 10sec. Then press and release the buttons you want mapped to square, x, triangle, circle, r1, r2, l1, l2 in that order. If you’re like me and would like to set these in the order
123
456
on a standard 6-button stick, then you’ll have to wire the FGWs accordingly:
square -> jamma 1
x -> jamma 2
triangle -> jamma 3
circle -> kick 1
r1 -> kick 2
r2 -> kick 3
hey, was just wondering…
if u were to make one of these, how much would it cost for the buyer?
cheers.
I had previously made some for $200, but I found that it was taking me too long to really make it worth it. Not being an electronics expert of any kind, I really don’t wanna ask for much more than this though, which is why I’m reluctant to take any more orders. My hope with this thread is to accommodate those willing to try to make something like this on their own. If you’re still looking to purchase one (for cps2 stuff anyway), I recommend holding out for undamned’s consolized cps2 boards.
I’d use a neobitz component for the video. I’ve got one in my supergun, hella sweet. Also some pots on the rgb line as arcade companies were a bit liberal with their rgb levels…
You’ve given me thought to make a new supergun though. I’ll make it out of an old fat PS2 case for room :). Also I’d go for the direct no conversion rgb scart route and hook it up to my new framemeister.
This may be a really stupid idea, but how about putting in a jvs capcom io? I’m not sure how big they are (mine is coming in the mail), could it fit in the bigger PS2 case?
I honestly don’t know about the jvs io board, but I can say that the fat ps2 cleans out pretty well and leaves a lot of room in there. If you end up trying it, please post your pics
I’m getting more and more inspired to do this. I’ll definitely post my attempt when I do it.
As a side note, I am told that the gbs-8220 gives 3 frames of lag with 480i.
Spontaneously resurrecting this thread to post a few images of another supergun I made recently, this time out of a psone. Some features:
- uses laptop power supply with picopsu dcdc converter (that heatsink is for a 7905 I’m using to get -5v from the pico -12v) http://www.logicsupply.com/products/pico120wi_25
- toodles’ fgw converters for psx controller inputs
- neobitz video board for yuv/svideo/cvideo output (I also have a switch for rgbs output), outputs through existing playstation a/v port
https://dl.dropbox.com/u/292701/2012-07-21_02-59-20_710.jpg
https://dl.dropbox.com/u/292701/2012-07-23_03-33-58_782.jpg
Sexy. If possible, care to expand on what you did with the PSU? I put a PicoPSU in my supergun, but it stopped working when I ran a CPS1 game (it started to give off a burnt smell). CPS2 worked very well for at least 30 minutes when testing.
I didn’t do anything special with the pico, just shorted the ps_on to ground, ran +5v, +12v, and ground out to the jamma, ran -12v to the 7905 and the output -5v to the jamma. I tapped another +5v/ground source for the fgw and neobitz boards. Everything powers on when I plug in the external laptop ps.
You mean it won’t work at all anymore after trying cps1? That makes me nervous since I also tested it only on cps2… I assume we both got our inspiration from this guy http://forum.arcadeotaku.com/viewtopic.php?f=18&t=15722 Have you asked him about the cps1 problem? Seeing your post there, I assume you got the -5v output to work properly (not sure if cps1 even needs that). In any case, I can’t imagine cps1 outright killing the pico.
I haven’t wired the -5V in yet actually, but yeah, I got inspired by that guy as well.
Suspicions on why mine died:
- I cheaped out and bought a knockoff PicoPSU on eBay
- my CPS1 board (Three Wonders) has been acting weird for quite some time
I use a CGA2VGA scaler as well in my supergun, I connected it to the +12V that powers the PicoPSU because the Pico wasn’t poweful enough to both power the JAMMA as well as the CGA2VGA. But the power brick that powers the PicoPSU had enough juice to run CPS2 as well as my scaler for a long time without issues.
Holy crap you’re right. I tried to run hyper fighting and now the pico isn’t responding, regardless of the board or no board for that matter: no lights, no voltages, nothing. I can say it’s not exactly cps1 though because I tried final fight first and it worked fine. Looks like I’ll be off googling for awhile now.
Mine at least had the LED light up and output some power (although only 3.3 or something on the +5V line) but is has that nasty burnt smell so I always turn it off quickly.