PSX/PS2 -> DC Adapter FAQs

Since I have a question about these and they seem to pop up often, how about we make a list of adapters you’ve used and how they’re mapped. Please help me by adding to this thread. (corrections would be very helpful as well)

So far, I’ve found the following adapters from threads and websites:

Total Control (lik-sang)
VMU = yes
Other Controllers = Steering Wheels
DualShock Vibration = Yes
Keyboard = no
Mapping = (unknown)

Total Control Plus (lik-sang, ebay)
VMU = yes
Other Controllers = Steering Wheels
DualShock Vibration = Yes
Keyboard = yes
Mapping = The adaptor has 3 switch settings. The last 2 settings swap the L and R buttons.

Position 1 is for wheels.

Position 2:
L >> L1
R >> R1

Position 3:
L >> R1
R >> R2

Total Control 2 (lik-sang)
VMU = no
Other Controllers = Steering Wheels
DualShock Vibration = Yes
Keyboard = yes
Mapping = (unknown)

Total Control 5 “3 in 1” (lik-sang, and others)
VMU = Yes
Other Controllers = Saturn, Wheel.
DualShock Vibration = Yes
Keyboard = no
Mapping = L1 => L, R1 => R
All Others ignored.

Super DC Converter (ebay, level-six)
VMU = no
Keyboard = yes
Mapping = L -> L1 or R1
R -> L2 or R2?
[someone please verify this mapping]

Dreamcast Dream Connection 2 (ebay)
VMU = yes
Other Controllers = Steering Wheels
Keyboard = yes
Mapping = L -> L2 or R2
R -> L1 or R1

Dragoncast Super Converter 3 (also known as PX -> DC)
VMU = Yes (you have to chop off a bit of the port though, it is too big)
Keyboard = Yes
Vibration = Yes
Mapping = L -> L1, L2
R -> R1, R2

DC Universal Connector (DUC) by MEGACOM (ebay)
VMU = Yes
Other Controllers = Unknown
DualShock Vibration = No
Keyboard = Yes
Mapping = L -> L1/L2
R -> R1/R2

Please help me out, respond if you have one of these or another adapter and I’ll correct this list for the help of others.

Thanks! Hopefully more will respond to this thread…and correct any mistakes I’ve probably made. Plus, maybe someone will post an adapter with the mapping that I want. :confused:

Come on people, does anyone have anything to add? Or are we just going to let this thread sink to the bottom while people keep making new threads?

Anyway, does anyone know of an adapter that does dreamcast R to R1/L1 and dreamcast L to R2/L2?

Dragoncast Super Converter 3 (also known as PX -> DC)

VMU = Yes (you have to chop off a bit of the port though, it is too big)

Keyboard = Yes
Vibration = Yes

Mapping
L -> L1, L2
R -> R1, R2

Anyone ever use a MAS stick with PS2 cables with a PS2 to DC converter? Do you know what the result is for Street Fighter III for DC? Are the buttons arranged in default position?

DC Universal Connector (DUC) by MEGACOM (ebay)
VMU = Yes
Other Controllers = Unknown
DualShock Vibration = No
Keyboard = Yes
Mapping = L=L1/L2 R=R1/R2

If you’re asking about using a 3rd party PS2/PSX to DC converter, then it depends on the converter used and how it maps the triggers to the R’s and L’s. This is why I started this thread, so you should be able to look up converters and see which ones might map your buttons how you want them.

seeking help

i just finished assembling a redoctane stick with happs comp buttons and stick. i went to test it out and nothing worked. I’m using the Total Control Plus convertor, and I noticed when i was doing the wiring that Redoctane already had the wires coming out of the R1 R2 spots, but none out of the L1 L2 spots…i’m not sure the technical terms, but anyways, i just connected the R1 and neither of the L buttons. so…(converting to DC)

  1. do the triggers not work if i only connect one of them…do i have to connect both R1 and R2 wires to the same button?
  2. if one button isn’t connected right will the entire stick not function?
    I’m going to post this on a few other threads, because i know i wired everything correctly, but as far as the R and L triggers for DC go i’m not sure if it’s not working because of the convertor.
    Thanks in advance :slight_smile:

seeking help

Those are some good questions.

  1. I can’t answer this for sure but…it shouldn’t matter whether or not you’ve connected the buttons. The way buttons work is when it’s pressed it creates a live circuit, otherwise it’s open. Whether buttons are connected or not, it’ll be an open circuit until the button is pressed. So, no, I don’t think it should matter. Either way, you do not want to connect R1 and R2 to the same button, especially if the convertor is mapped so that R1 and R2 go to different triggers.

  2. If you’ve got a common ground that’s come loose somewhere and it’s connected directly or no ground comes through to any of the buttons, then either certain buttons won’t function correctly or none of them will.

Some things to try to isolate the problem:

Have you tested the convertor with a regular psx controller? Have you tested your stick on a ps2/psx? Are you using a p360 stick? Did you recently try a regular dreamcast controller?

If you know for sure the convertor is the issue, then you want to try to isolate whether it’s a compatibility issue with your current pcb or just something wrong with the convertor all together. If you’re using a p360, then there could be a power issue since it requires voltage.

If you try out the convertor with a regular psx control pad and it works, then you might want to consider using another pcb.

Worst case scenario, however, is you’ve got a blown controller port. Check the DC repair thread for help if that’s the case.

Also, please post the mapping results. I know I and maybe a few others would appreciate it. :slight_smile:

Thanks for the reply. I just went and borrowed my friends playstation and a controller to test out the convertor, and the convertor works fine. everything is connected correctly from what i can tell. though unfortunately the damn redoctane pcb came with all the wires already soldered except the L1 and L2, wait i mentioned that already, so i went ahead and soldered those on hoping that since a button was missing that would be the problem. I know a lot of people solder directly directly to the microswitches, but i’m using quick disconnects because i hate soldering. but could it be that the wires aren’t directly connecting the microswitches, they are just touching the quick disconnects, which i thought was ok. it’s metal to metal to metal or whatever…so i’m a bit lost and really frustrated. oh, it’s not a p360 either, it’s a happ’s competition.
-kyle

It doesn’t matter whether or not the wires are soldered or just crimped into quickdisconnects, because you’re right about the metal to metal. People only solder to make the connection more secure.

Did you test your stick with your friend’s playstation?

Yeah, no dice with the playstation either. My roommate was just looking at the back of the PCB, I know more about soldering than he, which isn’t much, but he pointed out that some of the soldering on the PCB has jumped across to one another in places…would htat cause it not to work as a whole? or would it just cause odd things to occur when one button is pushed…like the other button being recognized.
-Kyle

It depends on where it is.

Check armad1ll0’s site here: http://www.modeverything.com/ and go to Redoctane PCB on the right side under tutorials.

Either way, you want to clean that solder off if you can.

Another thing is RedOctane’s stuff doesn’t have the best track record. There actually could be a short in the cable. Other people have posted problems with RO’s pcb & cord. I myself had problems with their pcb, so I replaced it and the cord.

Yeah, i was using armad1llos tutorial to link everything up. i’ll try to go clean between them, and see what happens. but there are other issues i have with the whole package anyways. cracked plexiglass, the holes don’t sink up, the graphics are on the plexi glass even though it’s advertised without them…they are damn ugly, there are actually chips in the corners before i got it. etc. it just seems pretty cheap in general. if cleaning it doesn’t work, i’m just going to contact them tommorrow and return it or refund or something. but still, could leaked solder keep the entire stick from working?

Yeah, if the solder is connecting a ground to something like power or anything else coming from the cable to the pcb. If the solder isn’t connecting anything, then it’s not an issue, but you have to be careful with it. A bad solder job can cause major problems.

You can test the actual pcb by just plugging it into a psx, then touching the ground to a button (not an actual button, but a wire leading to start or whatever on the pcb) and seeing if you get a reaction in game. If not, then there’s something wrong with either the pcb or the cord.

If something does work, then there’s something wrong with your connection to buttons.

Actually i just cleared off solder between two points and the damn thing works. this is retarded. but i’ve gotta work out the R1 R2/L1 L2, etc. i had them connected and was playing megaman my friend lent me and it only does the r2 attack thing. but i just tried street fighter third strike on my dreamcast and the stick wouldn’t work, but it is a japanese game, so maybe that has somethign to do with it
i’m about to figure out he shoulder buttons the post it.
-kyle

Total Control Plus

The adaptor has 3 switch settings. The last 2 settings swap the L and R buttons.

Position 1 is for wheels.

Position 2:
L >> L1
R >> R1

Position 3:
L >> R1
R >> R2

which psx->dc adapter would you guys recommend for the namco psx stick?

i was told that u cant use total control coverter if u play 3s,
is that true?
if that’s true…can anyone tell me which converter should i use for 3s??

quote: Originally posted by rokkon

Dreamcast Dream Connection 2 (ebay)
VMU = yes
Other Controllers = Steering Wheels
Keyboard = yes
Mapping = L -> L2 or R2
R -> L1 or R1

I have this converter. . . and I have a hori stick with only a L1 and a R1 button, so the button only registers as a fierce and no Rounhouse. This really sux with games like marvel, only one assist. :frowning: Does anyone know how to rewire this thing to have it mapped for L -> L1 and R -> R1?