HORI SCV Plexi and Artwork services are now available =).
PSD Template : http://www.tek-innovations.com/arthobbies/downloads/Art%20Hobbies%20HORI%20SCV%20Top%20Template.psd
Link to Product Category: http://www.tek-innovations.com/arthobbies/index.cfm?loc=products&cat=18
Cheers,
Arthong
Nice Arthong. Will definitely need this soon.
Can you post some high resolution pics Arthong? And some of the profile of the stick - is it flush? Can you describe the process you used to replace it? Very interested in purchasing artwork and the plexi if it looks good and isn’t a nightmare to install.
I’ll try to get some pics of the plexi height tonight. It’s not 100% flush, but it’s pretty darn close with 1/32" material.
In terms of installation, it’s pretty much like any other major fightstick on the market nowadays. If you can mod a TE, you can mod this. So open from the top, pull off the disconnects, pull off buttons, and take off ball top, take off stock artwork, and reapply everything.
The only thing to note, is the artwork is has some strong adhesive so it’s stuck pretty well to the metal panel. You can slowly peel it off to prevent a lot of left-over adhesives. Or, you can rip it off quickly but take your time to remove the left over adhesive. The bright side is that the adhesive is not like a sticker whereas you need some goo-gone to fully remove it. The adhesive here can come clean off the metal panel, but it’s just a little time consuming.
Should be getting my Hori SC V stick by Tuesday next week…
I hope Hori packed it better this time! I’ve heard bad stories about their shipping practices.
I’m way, way better than most people and many companies are at shipping my stuff through the mail.
You really have to immobile/wrap things in at least paper if not bubblewrap because of the Post Office and UPS people.
They tend to treat packages roughly unless they’re marked FRAGILE in big words.
The stories I’ve heard…!
TIGHT!!! got mine earlier today, it’s my first stick so i gotta get used to using it cause i’m switching from a pad. the controls feel nice and smooth, might have to look into getting a octagonal restrictor plate and some different artwork though (I don’t care for SC5 that much :P). otherwise it’s a great stick, thanks HORI for the sweet deal.
These are now $109.99 on Amazon with free shipping.
So, does anybody know Hori’s return policy on fightsticks and such? I recently got the SCV fightstick, but I play with it sitting on my lap. My wrists or bottom palm rests on the edge of the fightstick so it becomes quite uncomfortable for me after an hour or two. Where as MadCatz are usually rounded somewhat and isn’t an issue for me. I’ve sent Hori an email with no luck of them replying.
Anyone have a diagram of the pcb with solder points for wiring a chimpsmd? I’ve dual modded a few sticks but never with a chimpsmd. This will be my first time modding with a chimpsmd. Can someone show me how I’ll hook up the USB cable from the Xbox pcb? Do I cut it or just solder wires to the points?
Dont have a diagram but the pcb is so stupid simple to solder to and figure out. You dont have to cut the usb cable, it can be unplugged which is nice, just solder to the vcc,d+,d-, and gnd to the points on the opposite side. also all the action buttons and start are on the left side of the pcb and have the easiest solder points period.
If you are looking at the pcb as it is screwed into the case.
the solder point for the signal side of the buttons is further from the edge so on the right, the grnd is obviously closer to the edge so the left. its common ground so you dont need any of those grounds if you soldered to the gnd from the usb.
The only thing you would have to do is take off the home/turbo panel and unscrew the pcb from there and take a look at the home and guide and follow the traces. I only needed the back button so thats the only button i traced so i know where that one is. I might take pictures of it later and post it up but just take a look at the pcb. It really is straight forward.
oh what the hell, here is a pic
Usb on the top right real easy to solder the vcc, d+, d-, and gnd from the chimp to without the need to cut up the stock usb cable.
The back button is on the picture the 4th spot from the right but you have to flip it over and solder to that point which makes it the 4th from the left.
The directions are to the left of that and the black wire is obviously grnd and from how it is plugged into the jlf pcb take a look at the jlf orientation diagram to figure out the directions since I did not mark them.
Below the directions are the action buttons and start.
The circled row are the signals that you will solder to.
I dont remember the which buttons are which but the start button is at the top(white wire. Just flip it over and take a look because they are marked on the other side.
The only thing you will have to do is trace the guide button.
Thanks for the info blklightning
Of course I saw it, I just really didn’t think it would affect my ability to play with it comfortably. And that didn’t answer my question.
Also, It seems like Hori’s customer service chooses who they want to respond to and who they don’t. I have a friend who sent an email because he had problems with his order, and they replied to him twice. While I sent my email before he did and have yet to receive a response.
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Have you any thoughts on if it were possible to wire the chimp in a way to make use of the L2/L3 toggle switch? I’ve just opened this case myself, and the straight up dual-mod looks very simple but utilizing the toggle seems quite impossible.
(edit) added a pic since that seems to help prompt a response 
I received my Hori Soul Calibur V joystick safely around 5:45 PM EST yesterday!
Although I did hear the inner box hit the outer box(!), there was no visible damage to the exterior of the Hori box that the Soul Calibur V joystick was packed in.
It’s typical Hori HRAP packing – foam wrap surrounding the controller which is packed into an “egg carton”. Very economical and thankfully the controller was held securely during the trip!
I have not tested the controller for functionality but I really don’t think there’ll be a problem there.
I did some internal surveying and it’s built very much like the HRAP V3 SA… Have to say I like the easier customization of the faceplate and return to top buttonhead screws, though! Would suggest that before you remove buttons and the joystick (if you’re going to replace them; I’m keeping the PS3 buttons because I love the color!), document which wire goes to what button… This isn’t marked on the inside like the Mad Catz TE’s. Don’t count on the wires matching up like they do on the HRAP 3 SA, either.
Joystick mount looks to be universal but is even dead simpler than the HRAP V3 SA mount. No rotating 90-degrees like the HRAP 3 SA; it all mounts same direction; same orientation, flip the 5-pin harness 180-degrees for correct LS-inputs… Looks like the LS-32/-40 mount the usual way (with SS Mount) but every other LS-series joystick you’ll probably have to use a long rectangular mount that lines up with the JLF-TP1 screw holes…
Definitely keeping the original art but will wait to get Art Hong’s plexi to save it. My complaint about this is that the artwork picks up fingerprints and oil as easily as the Mad Catz TE artwork does! (Use a glass/lens cleaner to wipe off so that you don’t scratch the artwork layer.) Minor, yes, but this is actually the first Hori licensed TE art that I like!
The case is definitely a step up from the HRAP V3/VX in terms of mod possibilities and convenience. The return to the Astrocade button layout is also appreciated… it’s just more comfortable for many of us than the Viewlix layout IMHO.
I’d probably buy a non-Gundam, 360-version of this controller in the future (after selling enough another excess joystick)…
I dunno if I’m just used to my spring mod JLF cos I’m having a hard time doing WGF with this stick. I get forward dash a lot. 
Possibly Overlooked Part of Hori Soul Calibur V Case Design… Design Flaw?
So here I am opening up the Hori SC V case to remove the stock JLF and replace it with an LS-32-01 that I cannibalized from another stick case.
The LS-32 upper half with the SS Mounting Plate screws in exactly like it does on the HRAP V3 case – middle screw holes only… So, half the mounting screws go into a little ziploc bag just in case they’re needed in the future.
I install my ball top after putting the dustwasher on top of the faceplate and then screw on the PCB… The PCB pin is oriented away from the 30mm buttons and I plug in the 5-pin harness
This is when the problems start ==> As I drop the faceplate onto the case, I notice the LS-32 is NOT fitting through the hole Hori conveniently left for the stick lever. Specifically, the joystick hole (in the case) isn’t wide enough to accommodate the LS-32-01 PCB! I unscrew the PCB, leave the rest of the LS-32-01 attached to the faceplate and it goes down smoothly. Then, I fastened the faceplate down and upended the stick case.
There’s no getting around it… Hori messsed up the case design and did not double-check against alternate joystick fits OR never thought many people would change parts. The only way you can for sure install an LS-32 is to do it halfway like I did; invert the case, remove the baseplate, screw the PCB back on with the pin facing away from the 30mm buttons, and then plug in the harness. Otherwise, you’ll have to do a fairly ugly mod (with a Dremel, saw, or file) of widening the existing stick hole. I’d just as soon NOT do that horribly permanent mod and thankfully worked around the existing problem. A few more minutes of my life taken with extra work, but I wanted to keep the case in stock condition.
It’s otherwise a very nice case design… Hori shoulda done parts check fits, though. I’m fairly certain but not 100% sure that the same issue won’t affect the LS-40-01, LS-56-01, or LS-58-01. Other people have to buy the stick and install those parts to be sure. Knowing the LS-40-01, I don’t think that particular joystick should have the PCB issues the LS-32-01 did.
So because you are able to open from the top, you installed from the top?
I would have installed from the bottom, before even opening the top.
Because I studied the pictures from 4Gamer.
Which you have seen before too.
I feel your pain, literally. I love the stick (probably my favorite so far) but I don’t know if I’m going to use it much longer :sad:
I’ve gone through a bunch of sticks lately; maybe i should just get a Voltech vas-22.