^ vids of how this is done?
You are thinking way too hard if you believe you need a video for that, trust me you dont. I have seen the amount of information you have put in the ibuki thread so you can most definately do this.
The only question though is do you have a problem with voiding your warranty. If not just open it from the bottom as it makes it a hell of alot easier.
My Hori SCV stick has been modded into a dual voot stick for some time so even if i wanted to do a video, it would not be the same but seriously it is not hard.
All you will do is remove the quick disconnects from the button tabs and switch them with one another. All you have to do is know how to count to 4.
So take off bottom,
wiggle quick disconnects off of start(now back) button tab
wiggle quick disconnects off of ppp or kkk or whatever other button.
At this point you will have 4 free quick disconnects.
put the start(now back) quick disconnects on the ppp(or button you chose) button tabs.
Put the ppp(or button you chose) quick disconnects on the start button tabs and then you will have successfully switched the buttons.
All you are doing is swapping wires, nothing with electronics.
Give it a try.
Meh. I know how it’s done. Not that I really need a warranty, but I was hoping for a stick where I could swap the Select/Start buttons with whatever without having to open it up/wire anything/void warranty.
HORI Fighting Edge is what you want.
I got the octagonal gate, and the new knob put on, but is there any way to keep the knob from rotating freely? Its not something I’m used to, and I think its one of the things that’s screwing me up.
anyone have a clue as to why the default button layout on the 360 is different than that of other sticks?
I think that’s just the normal Hori layout, unless you mean the “Noir” curved layout of the buttons.
i meant the button placement on the stick like how on the PS3 version its square,triangle and R1 on top, X, O and R2 on the bottom. the layout maybe be different on other sticks but the button placement for the most part, stay the same. On the 360 version its all weird lol. its B, X, Y on top and A, LT, RT on the bottom. Maybe its the default arcade layout but then i ask myself, shouldn’t the PS3 buttons be placed different as well? Idk it just seems strange to me
Anyone tried modding this yet? I just got one, my first stick in fact, and its a 360 one since I wanted to use it on PC, but i’m looking into dual-modding it with a ChIMP. Anyone know how hard that would be with this particular stick?
Also kinda want to change the art, I rewired the buttons so they were the sf layout by default instead of SC.
e: oh apparently that has already been discussed, cool.
Hi, just wondering if anyone change the artwork with custom plastic one and what process/material use to make It. I’m not a real fan of the plexi and by the way If I change my mind and look for one from art&hobby the shipment of one of these products to me, in Italy is a costs pain 
I’m also interested in the answer to this. I like the stick since its half the price of a Fighting Edge, but don’t really like the artwork. (Along with a place that can put your art onto a replacement plate? Thank you :3 )
Does anyone have Art’s Hori SCV 1/16th Plexi installed on their stick and if so can you provide a picture? I want to see how much it sticks up from the case.
Well this is a super late response but, while I’ve only customized using a plexi, I believe you could use something similar to a new plastic label to replace the original artwork. Just remove the original art and replace using a laminated label, probably of the thickest size you can get it (pretty much a giant sticker). You’ll need to find a print service that can do this (Kinko’s probably). You’ll still need to cut it for the holes, which you’ll probably needs an x-acto knife and some sort of guide for where to cut. You could use the original metal plate as a guide, I guess. I used the plexi as a guide to trace where I should cut.
I don’t have the 1/16th, just the 1/32nd clear plexi, but that one sticks up about 3/4ths of a millimeter from the case by my estimates, so I would assume that the 1/16th plexi should be raised a bit over a millimeter.
Pictures:
Lower left edge
Lower right edge
The only issue that I’ve had with this plexi (and it could just be due to warping or bad installation on my part, not sure) is that it tends to have an upward bend at the top edge of the stick (I’ve presumed this is because the plexi is only 1/32" and there’s some very thin areas up there due to the start button cover and guide button area). I would think that the 1/16" size would have much less bending issues, but here are some pictures
Upper right edge (with some poor cutting results by me lol)
Upper left edge
Hope this helps
Thanks a lot for taking the time to take those pictures or for even posting those up. That’s exactly what I wanted to see. The 1/32" is a beautiful plexi that almost makes it look entirely stock. You mention that the warping could have been done due to bad installation. When you say bad do you mean that the tightening of the screws was not done in a ‘star’ fashion for even distribution of stress?
So for example, bottom left corner, top right corner, top left corner, bottom right corner, top middle and bottom middle (or bottom mid to top mid).
Also have you spoken to Art about this? Maybe he can give you some insight on what you’ve done incorrectly. Although this plexi is very nice and thin indeed, I am concerned. I wonder how prone it is to warping. I know a place that sell’s 1/16th plexi for the SCV so I’m reconsidering.
No problem. That is what I meant about the installation, I’m pretty sure that I just went clockwise without considering the most efficient pattern for distribution. I have not actually asked Art himself about this, though I guess I should consider shooting him an email to ask if any similar issues came up when he was testing this plexi design. Other than that top edge, I haven’t had any trouble with the plexi changing in shape.
Yeah you should definitely let him know. His website does say not to over tighten but I think if you post in his forum it would let others know. I’m sure they would appreciate it too.
I sent him an email and got a pretty quick reply suggesting that I loosen the screws and realign the artwork and plexi and then screw the center screws back in first, then flatten the corner areas and screw those in for better distribution, and it worked! The plexi now fits evenly across the stick and is looking slicker than ever.
Good shit man. Art has always been known for his amazing customer service and I’m very happy to hear you contacted him and got that fixed. This actually reassures me that I should indeed order the 1/32.
Don’t mean to ‘necro’ this thread. But has anyone tried to dual-mod this stick yet? Possibly with the PS360+ PCB? As to whether it’s possible without any solder work?
I am sure lots of people have dual modded it. However using a ps360 is way overkill unless for some reason you just have the bare case. If you want just xbox and ps3, I would just get a $20 madcatz pad and a $2 dpdt switch and be done with it. if you are scared to cut a hole in your case for the dpdt and you have the x360 version then just get a chimp/cerberus and call it a day.