The Cerebus is not plug’n’play with Hori’s, and the other method of using the board is not solderless. the Chimp, while possibly solderless, would be better off soldering with it.
Any stick can basically be modded with the PS360+
I did not say they were solderless or plug and play but they are all easy. If I am not mistaken I believe the cerberus still offers auto detect like the chimp does which is why i suggested those in the case of already having an xbox 360 pcb. Even though any stick can be modded with the ps360+, it is still overkill to use it in a stick that already has a ps3 or xbox pcb.
I still find it best to use a Madcatz xtekken pcb and a dpdt. It is the cheapest way to dual mod a stick when you can get the pads for $20( like this weekend. hint hint for anyone needing some pads)
Yes, but I specifically stated, without any solder work. This isn’t an immediate project, mind you. Just something I want to keep in mind for the future. I’ve never done anything like that so I wanted to see what my options were.
Ah I see. I guess I looked over that part. However soldering is not hard especially with the big ass solder point on the xtekken pads.
facepalm Let me put it in terms that hopefully you can understand. I haven’t soldered anything since an 8th grade jewelry/metal class, and even then I didn’t know what I was doing. I’d rather not fuck up the stick that I’ve already invested $200 in by doing a shitty solder job, if I can help it by utilizing a solderless alternative, which I know is available.
Well since there are no real solderless solutions and you don’t have the motor skills to solder. Have fun paying someone 80 bucks or trade in your stick for a TE
I’m workin on modding my hori SCV.
Has anyone installed a remora that may have some suggestions on best practices/what to avoid?
Also, I’m trying to get a hold of art for a replacement top panel but looking at the start button compartment, is that even possible?
If anyone wants to do a GOOD soldering job, get a decent soldering iron first.
Stay away from the el-cheapo sub-$10 varieties and crap Radio Shack sells… (Their solder and solder braid is fine but the tools themselves are really cheap and break easily… You’ll go through replaceable solder ironing tips like nobody’s business!)
Any recommendations for a sub-$60 soldering iron model that’s durable and makes fine soldering easier???
The Hori SCV case is not the most mod-friendly… I went over that a bit many posts ago.
It’s biased towards the JLF and quite a few people have had issues with joystick clearance on alternate compatible sticks. There wasn’t this issue with the older HRAP cases to be sure and it’s resulted in some people Dremeling the insides a bit for more comfortable parts fits.
That said, I still think the overall case is a better design than the HRAP V3 and the Mad Catz FightStick Pro. It’s also a bit easier to do the art. Those slim faceplate art window cases don’t lend themselves to a lot of available art (unless you like to stretch out artwork or can find art done in “widescreen format”) and seem to work best with minimalist line art like the Sega Mk II Virtua Sticks for the Saturn and the recent Mad Catz Tekken Tag 2 joysticks.
A bigger issue for me than the isolated “Start” button on the Hori SCV design is the turbo switch/home panel. It’s a very narrow but long strip that cuts into more art than the panel design used with the older Astro City-style HRAP cases.
Frankly, I think it’d almost be better just to put the stupid turbo/home panel on the back side of the case instead of the faceplate for future case designs/revisions of existing cases… Mad Catz had the right idea putting the Start/Select on the back and out of the way of the play buttons. I think the stick designers should just take all the $h!( that has nothing to do with actual gameplay out of sight and let the faceplate be maximized for comfort and/or artwork myself but the current cases are what we have to work with unless you want to create even more work for yourself and begin relocating buttons after you drill more holes in the case. I really don’t recommend that unless you’re modding an older retro-joystick case and adding SELECT/START buttons or a dedicated HOME button.