Yes it is.
Ah, Beaten to it.
I’m just starting to get my parts in for modding my stick so I decided I may as well ask a question about how I should approach opening the stick. For changing the buttons, balltop, and art should I just open the case from the bottom via the phillip’s head screws or from the top by unscrewing the six hex bolts (and, if so, I assume a normal, L-shaped hex-wrench should be used to remove them). I’ve heard of people doing either way and was just wondering which would be most efficient.
Personally I’d just open it from the bottom as the top bolts are secured by washers that have a tendency to fall out, in which case you’ll be opening the bottom anyway. Also the extra plastic inside the case makes removing the top panel somewhat annoying; the jlf connector catches on the edge and you can’t lift it out very far to get good access to the bottom of the stick to tighten the ball top.
edit- well you’re doing art as well. You’ll have to open from the top. If a washer falls out then open the bottom to fix it.
Thanks, sounds like I’ll probably need to open both sides in the long run, but I don’t think it should be too much of a challenge. Excited to get the artwork printed and try this out!
Just ordered this stick for the 360, and the octagonal gate, and a purple stick knob…
Now whether to get some new art or not… that’s a big question…
You should. Something needs to compliment that purple stick knob
^Agreed. Also the top panel isn’t very hard to lift out and the original art comes off pretty easily (I just used a hair drier to warm it up a bit and peeled it off in one piece, so now I can save the original art as well). There was a little excess adhesive but that peeled off very easily as well.
So another query… how hard is it to change out buttons for different colors, and possibly move their positions to something I’m more comfortable with? From some of the pics I’ve seen, it looks like simple connections.
Hey guys, I’m new here. Seems like an awesome board though!
For those that own one, does the ps3 version work with ps2 games on a BC console?
Hello everyone, I just purchased a Hori SCV stick (PS3) which I received on Thursday. It was working great, but today I was playing some MK9, when it stopped responding and the light indicating a connection was off. I unplugged it from the PS3, and plugged it back in the same USB slot. After a few, it did it again. I tried the other slot and it did it again.
I quit MK and popped Tekken 6 in, went to pick a character and suddenly couldn’t move or pick a character, yet the light was on this time.
Would anybody happen to have any advice as to what is going on inside this thing?
^ I’m afraid I’ve never experienced or heard of something like this. I’m also using the 360 model, so not much advice that I can give.
This is actually pretty easy to do, and the original buttons will have to be removed to change out the art anyway. The quick disconnects on the buttons are pretty easily disconnected (I simply wiggled them gently while pulling them off). The wires are even color-coded to each button, so just jot down which color goes to which control button, and you can reposition a button control by switching which wire goes to the button at that position. To remove the original snap-in buttons just push the tabs on either side of a button in and push them out carefully. When inserting new Sanwa 30mm snap-in buttons, I’ve been told that shaving the four ‘nubs’ on the button sides is necessary to ensure that they do not crack the plexi if you are using one to cover your art. The nubs can be shaved off using a simple edge and removing them does not appear to adversely effect the buttons. That’s about all that I can think of off the top of my head. I hope this information is useful, and good luck!
Yes it is. I’m doing as much research as possible before I do anything. I know I want purple buttons for the main keys, and have a line on the Sanwa 30mm’s. Also working on seeing if a friend can help me with the artwork, and I know where to get the plexi done. So yeah… this is going to be a fun project. Hell of a birthday present, huh? 
It should… All the other Hori PS3 joysticks work with PS2 games on the backwards-compatible models; there was a firmware revision for the PS3 around the time that Hori started shipping PS3 joysticks years ago.
Without opening the joystick case and taking pictures of the internal wiring and PCB and posting them here, nobody’s going to be able to help you.
Unless it’s a simple loose wire, you’re looking at (maybe) a bad solder area, bad USB cord, or defective PCB. Again, pictures would help.
There have been a couple of buggy SC V joysticks reported but not many… There’s always a few defective joysticks in a production batch; Hori’s much better on average than its competition generally is with defect rates.
You will probably have to contact Hori customer support and ship the joystick back to them for a replacement.
They will tell you that if you open the joystick and BREAK the sticker that’s on the case that you WILL VOID YOUR WARRANTY.
IF you don’t know what you’re doing with soldering tools/etc. I suggest you ship the joystick back to Hori AFTER you contact them first… IF it’s the PCB, there’s really not much else you can do unless you want to have Hori send a new PCB to you and install it yourself.
Thank you much GeorgeC, seeing as this is my first arcade stick, I was rather disappointed after this happened.
So worst case scenario, the PCB is bad and I can switch it out for a new one, but that requires soldering, right? If so, I may have to find a modder in the High Desert in California to give me a bit of a hand, or even just switch the PCB out for me…
Would anyone suggest that I just open the bottom, voiding the warranty, so I can take a look inside? (Seeing as I have no view of the PCB from the top.)
Guys i need some help, They have this stick on amazon for 90$ right now and its shipped in 1 day.
But my question is, I’m not a Soul Calibur player, and they say the button layout for Xbox is different from TE sticks. I’m guessing the Y button is on top instead of being on the bottom? Could someone explain this to me. And does it make that much of a difference for AE and marvel or MK9, those are the games i will be playing the most, in that order.
This would be my first stick, and i don’t have any bad habits right now. Is this a good stick for my first one? Will it be ok for AE/Marvel?
Help please!
Would this stick be better for 50 more $, i can pick up tomorrow from gamestop.
http://www.gamestop.com/xbox-360/accessories/xbox-360-street-fighter-x-tekken-fight-stick/99079
Won’t make a difference, if you want you can open it and swap around the quick disconnects on the buttons to a more “standard” layout. All you would need is a screw driver.
Or you could just go into the button config and change it in game.
90$ for the SCV one, or 159.99 for the SFxT from gamestop, Which one is better for my first stick.
I dont mind having to open it up and changed the button disconnects, or changed it in button config.
So hori stick for 90, or Madcatz for almost double.
Saying price is not a issue.
HELP!!
Just so everybody knows, the Soul Calibur V Hori fightstick does NOT work with ps2 games. It works fine on ps3 games, but turns off and doesnt respond when a ps2 game is put in.
That’s the important part, having fun with the project Definitely good to get as much information before diving in too, I’m glad that I looked up as much as I did before opening the controller, mine was a gift as well, though for graduation. It’s a great controller, from my limited experience, and pretty easily modified.
This is my first stick so I can’t say a lot from experience but like GeorgeC said, I’m pretty sure that HORI has a better reputation for build stability. The VX was actually the stick that I was looking at before the SCV was gifted to me, it appears to be good for the price range, but the buttons are not Sanwa (in case that’s a button type that you really like) and they are not equipped with quick disconnects, so if you’re thinking of modding the stick it would require a little bit of soldering (though you could probably attach your own quick disconnects to the button wires after unsoldering them from the buttons. Between the VX and the SCV, I personally think the SCV is a good deal for $30 extra to have an easier time modifying it and a few extra nice features, but the VX still sounds like the best thing in its price range to me (I am forever kicking myself for not buying one when I saw it for the equivalent of only $50 in a Japanese game store).
edit: It also might be good to consider the button layout. The VX has 6 main buttons with the other two positioned in the control panel, while the SCV has 8 main buttons, which might make it more comfortable to play games like MvC 3 U which can use assist buttons.
Okok forget about the old VX, I’m thinking going with the SCV one since it has sanwa parts.
Before I do the purchase, anyone object? and recommend the SFxT stick instead