PS3 TE Stick modded with a 360 SF4 MadCatz FightPad 56K death

(Authors note – I did a search and found nothing that uses the madcatz fightpad for 360

This is also my first mod that I’ve done and my first tutorial like this so please do give me feedback via pm on areas where I could improve)

So basically this is a tutorial on how to dual mod a Street Fighter 4 TE stick with a XBOX360 Street Fighter 4 Fight Pad. This is great especially if you want to only take one stick to a tournament and not have to worry about if it will be 360 or PS3 consoles.

Total time for the mod: about 5 to 6 hours


So here’s basically everything you need to begin.

The necessary stuff
A Street Fighter 4 TE Stick for PS3
A Street Fighter 4 Fightpad for 360
24 Gauge wire
Precision Screwdriver (Philips (+) Head)
Hex Key set (3mm)
Silver Bearing Solder
Soldering Iron
Wire Strippers and Wire cutters

The Optional (but very helpful) gear
Glue gun and glue sticks HIGHLY RECOMMENDED
Multimeter</li><li>Desoldering tool
Electrical Tape
Sponge (helps keep solder from still burning after you cool it off)
Some type of masking tape you can write on
Sharpie or other type of felt tip marker

So after you have all those parts, first thing you’re going to want is your Street Fighter 4 Fight Pad.

There is 7 holes on the back of the pad, 6 that are visible and one that is hidden under the big white sticker. Using your precision screw driver, you’ll want to get all 7 screws out, for the one under the sticker, just puncture it with the screwdriver.

Once you open that up, there will be another 4 screws to remove from the back to free the fightpad from the front part of the controller

The next part is solely optional but it makes for a nicer looking mod.


This is the space you’ll be working to get the buttons out

Note: Unless you really want to keep these cheap buttons, you can cut them away so that you are solely dealing with the part that is soldered to the board. Take your time when you’re doing this, the first time I did this mod, I wound up burning out the left trigger button.

Basically with the optional part you’ll be desoldering all the buttons off the PCB.

So after that, you will now have a nice clean (or not clean) board to be working with.

Michael Yu uploaded this image to

Isn’t it pretty?

Here are the two schematics to how the buttons work.

Up/Down : Right Side
Left/Right: Bottom area
Face Buttons (A,B,X,etc.) It will be on the left side
LB will be the top right hole
LT will be the top left hole.
Back is the top left hole
Start is the bottom right hole.
For the guide button, there is a small dot right above the larger button that is a perfect contact point for the soldering.

The pad is completely common ground meaning you need to solder only ONE point and thats it for the ground. I chose the opposite part of the down button because it had a large area and was very simple to solder onto.

Heres the back. You also need to connect to the 5V part. A nice little trick is to expose a bit of the wire and cover the wire part with some solder. Once you do that, place the wire against the 5V connection and lightly press the iron to the wire and it should heat up just enough to connect.

The switch on the back needs to be set to the middle position, otherwise, you’ll be a bit screwed.

So you’ll want to solder each point with a nice length of wire. Wire is cheap, don’t skimp out on it. I used probably close to 15 to 18 inches of wire and cut off a lot of it, but it’s better than filling your TE stick with electrical tape.

So you solder the connection down, then if you have a glue gun, glue that sucker down. If you don’t, you’ll regret it

Okay, so there are all the connections for the wires and everything like that. Now lets move onto the TE stick.

What you’ll need is the
TE stick
Your precision Screwdriver (Philips (+) head)
a Standard screwdriver (Philips (+) head)
A 3 mm Allen Wrench

So first thing you’ll wanna do is take off the top of the stick by removing the 6 3mm screws and you’ll be treated to a beautiful inside as seen below

Remove the connector for the joystick (and remember which side the glue is on so you don’t reconnect it incorrectly, and unhook all the buttons, write down how they are wired.

Next thing you’ll want to do is turn the stick over and remove the 6 screws keeping the bottom plate on

Then remove the screws on the bottom plate that are covered in red gunk

Then lightly pull on the plate, and if you look in the edges you’ll see little white “clip” type things. those are what keep the white sides held on snuggly.

So once thats done, you should just have the basic chassis and be able to work from there

Okay, so the first thing you’ll want to do is remove the Home/Turbo block setup with the two small screws on the sides

and then after that, unscrew the cable box from its confines, there are two screws, one on each side.

Once thats out, drill a hole on the left side of the cable box about 3/4s of the way up. I drilled it about 5/8s or so, but dremelled it till it was large enough to get the 360 pad dongle through.

After that part is done, slide the dongle and wire through and then rescrew the cable box back into place.

Next part will be modifying the guide button

On the small PS3 PCB, unscrew the PCB from the holder and release it from the side clips

And then since no one uses turbo, there is a small gold circle next to the home button

Solder a wire to there and you can glue it, but that is a bad idea as you won’t be able to actually push the button well. Just make sure its a solid solder connection.

Take the home button and snip the left side off so that it doesn’t hit the soldered wire

Then put the pcb back in the holder, making sure the switches and buttons are all aligned and also feed the wire out thats connected to the home area in the little slot on the pcb


Now to solder the pad buttons.

This is how the small wire cluster block in my TE stick was set up

So you basically are hooking the button assignments up to the solder points in the block.

These are the button assignments I did. Top is TE stick, bottom is the 360 layout I used based off my HORI DOA Stick

–button assignments from fightpad–

Now when you solder it, the easiest part is to take the wire, feed it through the rubber cap thing, slide the wire into the quick connect clip and solder it down, like so

A loose connection could cause buttons to register only half of the time

and then here is the solder points for the directions and 5V


TIP When doing this, best thing to do is to place some solder on the wire and make it nice and smooth, trim the wire down then put the wire against the solder point you want to connect to then lightly put some heat on the wire, the solder on the wire will heat up making a bond, then you can use a bit more solder on the area

After that, put it all back together, but leave the top unscrewed till you verify all the buttons are working

I Don’t know if you can see it but I put the fightpad in the lower left corner of the TE stick where it fits snuggly. The fightpad PCB also has a little nich in the upper right which you can push against a post in the te stick that’ll keep it nice and tight.

I hope this helps and if you have any questions, let me know via pm!

Again, I searched for “PS3 TE stick with madcatz” and didn’t find anything like this

This tutorial seems effective, but inelegant. Is it really ok for the stick to be sending out both PS3 and 360 signals every time you press a button? Also, I’m not comfortable with sacrificing Turbo functionality. I actually use that.

In theory, it sends out a signal through both wires, but since only one USB wire is providing voltage, I believe its not sending the signal through both wires.

So when playing both consoles, have you noticed any lag or any problems? Does playing on the 360 work as perfect or precise as the ps3?

Can this be done if the stick is for the 360 and the pad for PS3?

Does anyone know of another mod to make the stick work for both consoles?

Unless you just have a cannibalized pad, check out Toodles Chutulu mod.

I too would like to know the answer to this.

I have been playing on both PS3 and 360 and When my execution isn’t shitty/retarded, testing out Sagat using TU/FADC/RH/Ultra has been flawless every time.

Ok, and one more question. I don’t have a 360 but, do I need to wire up the home/guide button?

I retarded my box and placed a button hole in the middle of a large area to where I can’t fit any other button without making it look retarded.

You don’t NEED to wire the home button. Mine is just wired so i have guide functionality with the 360


Makes my life easier now that I know I don’t need to wire the home button. :smiley:

“and then here is the solder points for the directions and 5V”

you hav double posted a picture at this point in the guide, so you dont actully show the solder points for the directions and 5v.

I don’t know what happened with the pictures but its fixed.

wow this is just too much.
I’ dont have that much time on my hands to do all this.
Can i just send you mine, and you do it all for me?
I’ll pay of course.

Would the reverse of this, 360 TE -> PS3 pad be the same?

I have an abundance of friends with 360 TE’s and PS3 fightpads.

Its WAYYYY easier to use the Cthulu+IMP board made by toodles

so for this method you don’t need an imp board huh?
and the 360 just detects it without having to do anything like holding down a button or using some kind of switch?

what would be the best way to test the buttons if you don’t have an xbox?

cuz i know you can test it on pc, but what would the pc register it as since both the ps3 and the 360 works on pc
or would it not work testing it on a pc

thanx in advance for any help

Are there any easier ways to insert another wire into the quick disconnects?

I did something similar to this. But with a Mad Catz retro arcade PCB. I did not make use of the Xbox guide button at all. And I did not solder the 5v. I soldered the directions to the PS3 directions, and connected the ground. I then Soldered the buttons not to the quick disconnects but onto the bottom of the TE button PCB. So I soldered up all the directions. So it ended like this…

I did Start and back buttons as well but they’re not in diagram. not sure if this is supposed to be working well, but everything is normal so far. Only thing is when the 360 usb wire is in use, ofc turbo doesn’t work or anything. But the LED lights on the turbo light up in correspondence to which button is pressed. So if it’s the “A” button the furhest bottom left light flashes. If it’s Y then the middle top light etc…

But a part from that, PS3 USB works on PS3 as usual with turbo and everything. And 360 version works as normal without turbo and no guide button as I don’t use it. Mainly modded it for PC use anyway.

Really great guide. I’m assuming your stick has 2 usb cables coming out (1 for both consoles)? Didn’t see anything about using a DPDT switch.

Thanks for this!