Sorry for those who have been pming me, and I haven’t responded but I have been insanely busy with school and organizing and what not. To answer a few Q’s and going to do it a bit differently
@Nomadic – At the time this was done, there were two usb cables coming out of my stick, that got really frustrating though as trying to cram that much cable into that small box took more work than what it was worth. So I switched over to a DPDT, unfortunately at that time the pad started to short and go mad so I think in the future I will be using an IMP Board as it makes things a heck of a lot easier.
@Choysauce – I do not know how the pad should correspond to PC connections as I haven’t tested it on PC, and when I do play on PC, I just use the PS3 functionality. And as stated before you DON’T need to use an IMP switch, but IMHO, I think its much easier and better to use an IMP
@Rkmx52 – Like Karas13 said, you can also solder the wires under the board. At the time this mod was done, I actually did not know thats how everything was laid out (as this was my first mod and since then I have done many more advanced things)
I’d like to say thanks for this guide… i just finished my dual mod with dpdt ugh… what a nightmare… I NEVER want to do that again. I used mostly this guide and Backspace’s dpdt mod guide (http://shoryuken.com/f177/my-madcatz-te-ps3-360-dual-pcb-186050/) and did a hybrid of both
OMG desoldering the fightpad is horrendous to take the buttons off…is it possbile instead of “cutting” these buttons which I don’t see how you possibly can, is it possible to just leave the buttons on and just solder the wires to the points , will leaving the buttons on affect anything?
My soldering skills are OK , but I don’t know about desoldering, seems like it could take 3 days to do. I plus I dont’ wanna burn out anything on the board, my desoldering tool seems like it’s not really working right so I’m just going to leave all the buttons (start back and LB and LT) and just solder to the points on the back side, should accomplish the same thing, but your right, yours does look much cleaner AND cooler. I really don’t see how these buttons would be “cut” , even using a dremel in there would be iffy getting so close to the board.
i left the switches on. I tried and tried to suck it out using a pump but i couldn’t desolder them. I did as you theorized and just soldered on the back to the points
Excellent…I’m working on it as we speak…as far as the USB connection going to the fightpad board, obviously the red is the VCC, what are the rest of them? Can you tell universally by color wether it’s the D+ , D- , ground? …like what order are they in?
Sorry to resurrect this thread, but I have a question about the Retro Arcade PCB. I have a couple of these sitting around and I want to do my first dual mod on my PS3TE. You say that the guide button does not work for the 360. Is it possible to get it working or did you just not want a long wire going across everything from the Retro PCB to the TE’s guide/turbo PCB?
alright i’ve been using this dual mod for a couple months now and while i was playing on 360 it just said reconnect controller. I tried unplugging and plugging it back in, switching back and forth on my dpdt. I tested the fightstick on ps3 and it works fine. The weird thing is though, when i plug it in the 360 and hold the guide button, it powers on but won’t work afterwards. I’m afraid i fried the pcb… any thoughts?