That is good to know. I’m not sure if I was actually even touching the stick when the static hit. I was jumping up to get to my phone as it was ringing and just frantically trying to hit the start button on the back to pause. I’ll think about this rubber washer and plastic screw idea though.
I have a relatively related problem and was wondering if you guys could possibly help me out. Few months back, I moved my ps3 from the tv in my room to the bigger 1080p tv in the family room. When I plugged in the usb connector from my joystick to the ps3 usb hub, I saw a small spark. Fired it up, and now my joystick doesn’t seem to work. I’ve unplugged the joystick, ps3, etc. but I’m pretty sure something’s off.
So my question is, are all the electrical components in the joystick fried or just the usb connector. Personally, if anything, I’m thinking that the ps3 card or w/e is fried but is it possible the buttons and stick itself could be fried as well. If so, is there any way to check with a voltmeter or something like that? Super is coming out SOON and now that school is just about ending, I am getting kinda nervous that I’m not gonna have my joystick before it comes out.
Please help! I want to be able to play Super a.s.a.p with my joystick!
*My joystick was made by a friend of mine and it’s custom. I can upload pics / videos etc. if you need any of that. Thanks in advance!
Mad Catz Static Electricity
I don’t know if anyone will actually see this reply…
I spoke to a Mad Catz rep over the phone about a month ago because my Marvel Vs. Capcom stick RT, and LT buttons would suddenly stop working. She said this is because of TOO MUCH built up Static Electricity.
The prescribed fix is to simply unplug and then replug the controller.
Apparently these things are HIGHLY susceptable to static buildup.
Though I will note that since grounding myself ( ie; releasing any static before using, I read that contacting the center screw of a grounded outlet does this (?) seems to work ) I have not had any further problems.
I’ve theorized in some other posts on EventHubs that this whole static electricity problem is indeed an achilles heel for these arcade sticks. So any precations that you might take with a computer, or other electronic device to lessen the chances for such a shock prior to using the Mad Catz fight sticks will probably make a positive difference. It actually really has for me.
Although considering what we pay for these things ( I bought an SE to mod 40.00 new (lucky), and the Marvel Vs Capcom 139.00(on sale) because it just looks badass ) you would think that they would have worked something like this out in preproduction testing.
Anyway…
that’s crazy! Never heard of that before.
http://shoryuken.com/f177/tatsunoko-vs-capcom-stick-wii-madcatz-confirmed-211098/index11.html#post8290419
Parts so good that you don’t really need to replace them.
I dunno about that…
I took out the original buttons and joystick and replaced them with a leftover JLF and Sanwa 30mm’s I had.
The original joystick might not have been so bad but the stock buttons still aren’t Sanwas for sure.
The TVC buttons aren’t trying to be Sanwas. Give them a try.
They’re not Sanwa’s but they sure aren’t the “break down within a month or so” buttons of the old SE. Personally, I’d just get the blue buttons and replace the switches with Sanwa ones since Sanwa doesn’t have that color.
I had this issue with my Round 1 TE stick as well, after searching through alot of forums and threads I decided to try the proposed fix of grounding the top and bottom plate of the TE. Five minutes of work and the issue’s been gone for months.
How did you go about doing this? Thanks.
1 ground wire from the jlf to a screw on it’s mount or a screw to the top (just near the top plate)
another ground wire from any ground on the pcb/terminal to the bottom plate.
This is probably as good a thread as any to see if anyone has any idea what happened to my R1 TE stick. So, I was going to sell my TE stick and being the nice guy I am I went to test it first as the person who wanted it wanted it returned to its original 8 button configuration (I was using 6 buttons + 2 button plugs). See I get it set up and for some reason ‘L1’ has, despite having never been used, stopped working. While I didn’t remove the wires for it from the terminal strip I had gone as far as pulling the quick disconnect covers over the QDs so that there wouldn’t be the possibility of metal touching metal. Any idea what could have happened?
Thankyou Osiriskidd.
got a question but its related to xbox te related. recently had my stick modded. been working for about 3 weeks until a today. when i plugged the stick, home button just lights up for a second, then turns off. Xbox does not recongize my stick is plugged. Funny thing it happened rite when my friend plugged his modded te stick. I am not a tech guy soo any advice will be helpful.
I’ve only owned Hori sticks in the past, never any other brand, and I’ve never had quality issues or non functioning buttons. I use the sticks until they’re done for and need parts replacing too.
Cant believe that static electricity killed the stick, that’s crazy. I’ve never heard of this before, but I guess anything’s possible?
Yeah I had dual modded my ps3 TE with a 360 fightpad and since it was cold i was playing with a blanket on my lap… when i lifted it up it got little shocks multiple times and my 360 says reconnect controller. The fightpad had fried… lucky it still works fine on ps3 but damn it i gotta solder everything all over again…
I’m thinking maybe i should just put a plexi on the bottom…
My PS3 MadCatz SFIV SE gave me a good shock recently and since then the stick has been stuck in the ‘down’ position. All the buttons seem to still work fine. I had replaced the parts with Sanwa parts, so I tried swapping back in the MadCatz stick and it had the same problem. Anyone else run into this problem and know how to fix it?
Right on SteveTren. And hes right, and its not just Mad Catz Products, its all electronics that hurt by static.
Also from those old Dreamcast days, Mad Catz did learn alot from there products. 11 years is alot of time to change they way your products are made.There TE Sticks are made from almost all Sanwa parts and are made sturdy.
Happened to me minutes ago. This thread has been here a while, I take it there’s no real fix for this besides a new stick? Sucks.
Static electricity can maim or wound lots of electronics, it is not a special MadCatz TE vulnerability. I’ve reset my HRAPs’ PCBs with static before (dry winter + plastic chair + fuzzy pants = bang), and once killed a brand-new imported DualShock 3 the same day I opened it. :[
Give it a while and try it again. The above-mentioned DS3 sprung back to life months after it died.