I can’t believe this… I got a bit of a static shock when I jumped up quickly and hit the Start button to pause. When I got back none of the buttons worked except for the home. I restarted my PS3 and now all the buttons work, but the joystick isn’t responding (in any mode).
At this point I’m pissed, but figure I might have some how touched the metal shaft on the joystick and fried the JLF’s PCB… okay, that sucks, but I can fix that with a few mods. So I quickly swap out the cable and connect it to the stock MadCatz stick PCB and it still isn’t working. The goddamn main PS3 PCB is fried at the joystick connection!
Fortunately I had a spare SE from a screw up at BN.com, but now I’ve got to take that off auction if I want to play any SFIV.
Seriously though, WTF? Are we supposed to use grounding wrist-straps to play with this Mad Catz shit?
Is this something I really should be concerned about for any joystick? I noticed with my HRAP3 that i got two weeks ago that when getting up I’ve shocked it a few times and it stops working. I then disconnect it and plug it back it and it works fine. Am I damaging the joystick in a permanent way?
I shock my HRAP EX everytime I get off my couch and it stops working until I replug it back in. I think the metal top/bolts send a static shock to the joystick mounting plate then into the JLF pcb which shuts it down. Eventually it may kill my HRAP. Static electricity produces a very high voltage shock which can be well over **5000 volts ** but its at low amps so it won’t hurt you even though it can kill sensitive electronics like your joysticks PCB. I really don’t think there is a good/easy way to prevent static build up other than grounding yourself and your stick while playing LOL.
I’m thinking about hot-gluing some felt or crushed velvet to the metal base. Though I wonder if that might exacerbate the problem. Anyone feel free to correct me before I kill my last SE! :rolleyes:
Velvet on the bottom plate of the stick won’t help and may make it worse as it’ll facilitate the static built up. The static is discharging through the top plate and or the 6 exposed bolt heads (for an HRAP) not the bottom as the bottom is completely isolated from the pcbs. so, you can try using flat thin rubber washers where the JLF mounting plate meets the Hori stick mounting plate and plastic screws / non conducting bolts screws. This will isolate the Sanwa stick from the metal top plate.
I personally am finding the static is discharging through the 6 exposed bolts on the top plate. Replacing them with plastic bolts may be the answer, if you can find some.
Not sure about the SE stick, but I’m guessing the bottom plate is not near any of the electronics.