Thank you to rtdzign for pointing out that it isn’t clear what the final design specifications are.
Here’s the currently known set of specs (also found in Post #1):
[LIST]
[]Wired
[]At least dual-modded (PS360)
[]24mm buttons
[]8-button layout
[]Low-set concaved ball-top, ergonomically thumb shape taken out
[]Start, Select, Home on top left of pad (A), or to far right (B)
[/LIST]
I edited Rufus’s mock-up to make these 2 pictures. He used a FightPad as the base
Okay so if we are only doing PS3 and Xbox 360 and PC, we should go with this PCB for the pad.
------Parts Suggestions--------
------PCB---------
-Paewang Revolution PCB. This is Xbox 360/PS3/ and PC compatible. To go into system detect mode you have to hold Turbo when plugging in, and it will default to that system from then on. http://etokki.com/Xbox360/Joytron-Paewang-Revolution-PCB-Only
-------Joystick Harness-----------
-I also suggest getting the Joystick harness for the Paewang PCB in this case.
This will work nicely with the joystick I suggest. http://etokki.com/Misc/Paewang-Joystick-Harness
—Joystick Suggestion------
So for the joystick I suggest the LS-33. It has a very light spring so it
doesn’t take as much force to activate and will be the least resistant.
It will also work well with the above wire harness. This joystick also has a
shorter shaft than all of the other joysticks so getting it to sit low will be less
of an issue. http://www.lizardlick.com/Seimitsu-LS-33-Joystick_p_424.html
--------Hookup Wire--------
I’m guessing anybody who is doing wiring would have this. Probably would need 6 feet of black wire and 6 feet of another color. http://www.lizardlick.com/Hook-Up-Wire_c_202.html
I agree on the Paewang PCB. You could wait for the PS360+, but there’s still no date set on when it’s being released, and if you don’t need PS2 support, it’s really going to be a wait for just autodetection of consoles. So unless holding turbo while you plug it in to a console is going to be too cumbersome for you, that isn’t worth the wait, just go for a Paewang.
Not horribly tough, but to use those actually buttons would take a lot of work. The best option is to use arcade parts that are size equivalent to them. Akihabarashop and etokki both stock smaller buttons. Akihabarashop stocks buttons as small as 16mm, and etokki as small as 10mm. If someone could measure the diameter of the fightpad buttons, it would be easy to know which buttons would be closest to that.
My only concern is I don’t know the durability of Weco or Boolim buttons (the small one etokki carries). I could try to find out from laugh for you.
FightPad buttons aren’t standardized at all, and the buttons aren’t going to be set up for custom projects. It will vary by the donor pad, and what you want to do, but it’s going to be more involved than off-the-shelf buttons.
Fightpads buttons are typically on the order of 10 mm.
Honestly the wecos would be better probably. The buttons are measured by mounting diameter, not the size of the plunger. I think the plungers on the Wecos are close to 10mm.
EDIT: I just looked at the datasheet, the plungers are 9.5mm. So that’s about as close as you’re going to get with arcade buttons to the size of fightpad buttons.
You need to be careful about these smaller buttons. While I have not tested the boolim buttons, for the 18 and 20mm sanwa SDM buttons, the force that they require to press down and activate is not really suitable for gameplay buttons. Those particular models require roughly 5-10 times the pressure to activate.
I have the boolims and they are much stiffer than happs/ILs to actuate fully. I’m not sure how easy they would be to mod either, as i tried to open it up and managed to mangle the button a bit
an American Quarter is actually 24.xx mm, unless you can find Canadian Quarters, which are 23.xx mm.
As for printing, it depends on what software you’re using, but generally make sure the print options somewhere is set to actual size and to not scale to page size etc. And then take a trusty ruler to measure the print out just in case.
Also, Laugh (Operator of etokki) said he could most likely find small buttons to fit this application when he gets back to Korea from Season’s Beatings. If 24’s won’t work, this is another good option.
Thank you. Given this, I’ve tested with 8 [American] quarters, and 24mm is doable, but only if we move them closer together. Because of this, I have a question: Would it be possible to mount them on a single board or something, then mount the board on the case? The way I tested it, there was no space between the quarters
24 mm is actually the measurement of the holes required for the buttons. So for the buttons including the rim it is closer to 27 mm or 1 1/16 inch. You have to have about 3 mm between each button hole.
All those who are willing to help/donate, please contact Akazukin ChaCha. I believe he’s being the money-keeper-guy or something for this project. At this point, I’m not too sure who’s actually doing what, except for the people who are helping figure out the parts…
