I know it’s a bit impractical, but what about using the tiny button and microswitch combo from the PDP fight pads?
Ok, thanks for the information.
I don’t know. Guys?
Well, as far as wiring them goes, they’re a synch. They’re smaller and since they use microswitches, they’d be a step up from the Madcatz fightpad buttons. But the smaller size means they could be grouped together a bit. Basically, think, arcade-style fightpad buttons. Actuation force is probably a bit tougher, but it’s a solution for smaller buttons that don’t require a ton of force.
Actually, that makes me wonder, would it be possible to make something like them moddable with SW-68 microswitches, to keep the actuation force at a minimum?
I just looked at the switches in my Sanwa buttons, and even if you decide to dremel them, I don’t think it’s possible to get the SW-68s to be a whole lot smaller than 0.476 x 0.592 inches. Considering you’ll probably want .1 between them, You’d be doing quite well to get them as tight as the buttons on a playstation pad. And I think you’d still be looking at custom plungers and so on.
Yeah. I mean, the stock buttons it is, then. But I do recall them being soft, I’m just not certain how soft. I kind of dumped any prospect of buying one once I found out the PCB was common ground, but made stupid and not dual moddable. But those buttons are tiny and have soft microswitches, just not quite as soft as Sanwa, but I’m sure they could be much easier grouped together.
i have the PDP xbox pad and i never use it. the buttons are small, use microswitches and don’t require much force to activate. if you guys decide on using those buttons i’ll donate the pad for this project.
The PDP switches seem to die out like SE buttons according to anecdotal reports from a while back. I would not use them.
Darn. They’re such a nice size for this project. Any chance there’s some different switches that can be swapped in?
I know the Onza uses standard Omron switches found in mice (Omron D2FC-F-7N). The PDP uses similar switches, at least from the picture they look around the same size. You can probably swap them out.
For reference. PDP seems to be just using clones.
I found these buttons. Some guy making mini arcade cabs pointed me towards these. He said that they are soft enough for use for gameplay. So maybe we should go ahead with these.
They require a a 9mm hole, 3/8 drill bit will do. With the rim they are 13mm.
Those look quite great for the task, I must say. If they’re soft and have good switches, I’m all for 'em.
Those look and sound good
For the gate, I say we go with an octagonal one. I tried a stick with a square gate this past Saturday, and it was entirely too restricting.
For buttons, I was wondering about the possibility of using Sanwa Micrositches naked - possibly with the plungers dremmeled.
Updating your parts list then…
------Parts Suggestions--------
------PCB---------
-Paewang Revolution PCB. This is Xbox 360/PS3/ and PC compatible. To go into system detect mode you have to hold Turbo when plugging in, and it will default to that system from then on.
http://etokki.com/Xbox360/Joytron-Paewang-Revolution-PCB-Only
-------Joystick Harness-----------
-I also suggest getting the Joystick harness for the Paewang PCB in this case.
This will work nicely with the joystick I suggest.
http://etokki.com/Misc/Paewang-Joystick-Harness
—Joystick Suggestion------
So for the joystick I suggest the LS-33. It has a very light spring so it
doesn’t take as much force to activate and will be the least resistant.
It will also work well with the above wire harness. This joystick also has a
shorter shaft than all of the other joysticks so getting it to sit low will be less
of an issue.
http://www.lizardlick.com/Seimitsu-LS-33-Joystick_p_424.html
http://www.akihabarashop.jp/images/seimitsu-LS33Front.jpg
--------Octagon Gate------------
Octagon gate for LS-33
http://www.lizardlick.com/Seimitsu-LS-56-Octagonal-Restrictor-Plate_p_440.html
[S]--------Quick Disconnects---------[/S]
[S]For the joystick you will need 8 .187 quick disconnects, by you should get 20 just in case. You only need these if you don’t get the joystick harness above.[/S]
—Buttons--------------
Buttons off of Ebay. comes in sets of 5 so we should get 2 packs of red and 1 set of black or white. I imagine that these can just be soldered directly to instead of quick disconnects.
--------Hookup Wire--------
I’m guessing anybody who is doing wiring would have this. Probably would need 6 feet of black wire and 6 feet of another color.
http://www.lizardlick.com/Hook-Up-Wire_c_202.html
http://ampbuildersparts.com/store/images/mini-100footroll.JPG
-------Concave balltop-------
I have no idea where to get a concave balltop, but it may be possible to fashion something out of wood and insert an m6 threaded insert into it.
http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/Hex-Drive-Threaded-Insert-4ZU73?cm_mmc=GoogleBase--Fasteners--Thread Insert-_-4ZU73&ci_src=17588969&ci_sku=4ZU73
http://images.grainger.com/B344_37/images/products/250x250/Hex-Drive-Threaded-Insert-4ZU73_AS01.JPG
Hi guys, if you are close to finalizing a design for Giniro, I can start to purchase some parts for him as long as it’s confirmed by him and you all. I would like to see an itemized list of what is being donated (if anything) and what still need purchased. I’d assume the PCB is probably the one thing that won’t be subject to change and a good place to start. I just wanna see a list of everything so we can figure out how much money I am gonna need to help raise for this project aside from my own contributions.
Also whoever is taking on the actual building of the stick (is it multiple guys)? I will need people to pm me their paypal addy so I can forward money to them to get this thing rolling. But do this when you have a solidifed plan in place, don’t rush of course, I was just letting everyone know I am still here and willing to help with whatever I can, but I wanna make sure this is being done right and as easy as possible for the kind people donating their time and effort to this prjct.
thanks all.
-Brian
So, how far along is this thing. This is the kind of thing I’d like to do features on once I get my writing gig here.
It appears to still be pretty early in the concept stages still d3v, but I hope we can actually start moving forward on some things soon. I will talk with Giniro this saturday and see what I can do to get this ball rolling, but with his situation, the design process is going to be tedious and we can’t rush the good will of others, so I assume we’ll have to play a wait and see game with this one.
It should be possible to carve up a balltop on a lathe.