im still waiting! sell these already im in socal and will pick up! haha
If these can fit K-sticks/LS-33, I may be interested.
I just measured the diameter of my spare Sanwa dust cover and it seems like it’s exactly 1.5" or 38.1mm…unless I’m doing something very wrong.
That sounds about right but it might be a little too close. I may just have to make special top sheets for the Crown sticks. I’ll test it out when I get to that point, but thanks for the reply. I don’t know why I couldn’t find it any where I looked. I wonder if you can buy a bigger one? (no homo)
All of the dust covers I have had experience with are definately larger than 35mm. I do not believe this would be an issue. Still waiting on my Swana to arive, I’ll be happy to measure it out when it arives just to be certain.
Regarding the snap-in buttons…can you not make the hole in the plexi slightly smaller than the MDF? This would allow the snap-in’s to lock under the plexi, and the screw-in’s would still be raidial larger than the MDF or plexi hole and should screw in as normal? So as long as:
The plexi material you use is 1.5mm to 4.5mm thick
The plexi hole is 30mm
The MDF hole is…idk 31mm or something still small enough for the screw-in’s to work.
Issues you may run into with this from what I have seen are the plexi material cracking due to it not being strong enough, and based on the above the plexi material would need to be a maximum thinkness for the buttons to be as sturdy as possible.
In addition slagcoin has this to say about it…
[Quote]
snap-ins can be used in thicker panels when thinner acrylic glass is used on the top layer; the panel below has to be given notches to fit the securers; the buttons are not necessarily very secure when this is done.
[/Quote]
…which follows in line with your idea.
Yeah that’s the idea I’m using 1/8" or 2mm plexi, and 3/4" MDF the hole will be 30mm in both materials. The MDF will be routed out to the right depth for screw in buttons. I’ll cut out 2 half circle notches on either side of the hole in the MDF so you can still release the button from the underside. Hope that makes sense. I know I’ve seen a picture of this somewhere if I can find it I’ll put it up and give credit to the guy that did it.
Found the pic but cant remember where I got it from??
I might make the notches a tad bigger but this should work
BTW thanks to whoever posted this pic, sorry I don’t know who you are 
BTW Kronk thanks for the info
Looking at my button layout I’m a little concerned that the nut on the Sanwa buttons might be big to fit with the spacing I used. I may have to set them apart a little to make this work. I got it from Slagcoins site has anyone used that spacing?
Edit: Quote from Slagcoin’s site
Looks like I’ll be making some slight changes to it… again
measure twice, cut once 
LOL so true and in my case measure like 5 times
Hey Domz you’ve used the Viewlix layout before but it looks like you used the smaller Seimitsu nut’s. Did you make any spacing adjustment to it and can you confirm the Sanwa’s don’t fit?
VOLTECH, make sure your button spacing can accommodate screw-in types of buttons. I have experienced button spacing issues on some boxes, they were so close only snap-ins can be used because the nuts holding the screw-in types get in each others way.
Happ competition nuts are the fattest, followed by Sanwas then Seimitsus.
Updated the button layout to 37mm spacing since the Sanwa nut diameter is 36mm this will give me a little room to tighten it up with out hitting the other buttons. Also this should be enough room for the Happ buttons too since there only 1-3/8" diameter 
http://www.flickr.com/photos/56701743@N00/3366305417/sizes/l/
Cool, I just used a micrometer to measure an actual Happ Competition Button Nut.
Its actual size is 35.77 mm.
Sweet! Button spacing confirmed
PM sent
This is what I got so far
Link to larger pics http://www.flickr.com/photos/56701743@N00/sets/72157615602657636/
Posting from my house in West Hollywood.
Raiding Voltech’s house later to make sticks.
Bump.
How did you acquire such skills?
Voltech, you won’t have a problem hiding the Korean stick hole with a Sanwa dust cover…while it’s stationary that is. Once you start moving the Sanwa joystick in any direction, you will reveal the hole in the plexi made for the Korean stick.
I would say make different tops for the Korean sticks. They aren’t that popular anyway. Only really popular with a minority of Tekken players for the most part.
~Paik
Work sucks!
You’ll have to catch me first Mwaa ha ha haaaa!
There are many things you don’t know about me
That’s what I was afraid :xeye: When the stick gets in I’ll test it out just to be sure. It’s no big deal to make a bigger hole I already have the fostner bit to do the job. Besides I wanna make the “minority of Tekken players” happy too
No build progress yet (stupid job gets in the way again) just getting the models updated. I did buy some new router bits and I plan to make a jig for routing out the top sheets this weekend. I want to have the Hydrocut guys cut one out of plexi so it’s a perfect template. P.S. I’m ditching work today so I can get a head start, I want these sticks done like yesterday. I’ll take pics and keep you posted along the way - Peace
Painting Questions
- Best primer for Poplar?
- Best paint to make these sharp angles really pop
- 2 tone or just one color?
- color schemes (I’m thinking - white\black, red\black, blue\black blue\white, yellow\blue,
any suggestions?
Wood color.
^^ Not this time around (poplar’s not very pretty) that’s coming with the next build