WHOO!
VOLTECH, that is hotness.
Keep it going.
You got five going.
Three are for you, yourself, and VOLTECH.
Wonder where the other two going. :wonder:
Man, I live so close to you.
I want to just come over to check them out. :sad:
Google SketchUp I think is for 3D Model.
damn voltech that’s sweet. no wonder you haven’t been playing in forever.
damn, VOLTECH. you beat me. i was working on something similar… well, back to the drawing board… :bluu:
Really impressive Voltech. If you end up selling cases I might have to pick one of these up.
Would getting different hardwoods be an option?
Wow i wish i saw your work prior before i gave up and bought me a HRAP 3 >< yeah i know terrible lol.
you still arent doing wiring yet?
im diggin what I see so far.
keep it up 
looking good… + you’re local too
Subscribed. I will definitely contact you if I decide to invest in a stick. I hope you won’t mind me Giefing you with your own stick lol jp.
Woot 69 lol had to do it =P
I just got my metal plate samples, so I’m going down tomorrow to the Hydrocut shop to get my first batch cut out. I got a pack of 2024 and 7075 airplane grade aluminum ranging from .02 to.08 in thickness and they just happen to be the size I plan to use 
I’ll have the thin ones cut first just to see if they fit. But I think the thinnest I can go is .05 in this small size any bigger and it would be .08 all the way unless I had a lot of support all along the edges .
nice work,
thicker i think would be better to reduce vibration from mashing hahaha
Hey Voltech, I’m sure you’ve already passed by Slagcoin’s awesome site; but just in case you haven’t, its got alot of great dimensions on control panel templates. http://slagcoin.com/joystick/layout.html
The problem with primer is that you’re still painting on top of something and you’ll still see the wood grain unless you do multiple/heavy coats… with Gesso, you can tint the bonding medium. And it’s pretty thick.
DSS - I’m only covering a 4"x4" area and after seeing and feeling the metals .05 should be ok but I’ll be testing them all to see what works best. I am a pretty rough player so trust me I want this stick to be strong. But I also have to take the price of materials into account.
KenjiXSamurai - yes I am very familiar with the button layout section on slagcoins site. I may make a few different layouts just so I can try them out for myself to see what I like. I actually want to make a couple of jigs that will make cutting different hole patterns easy and exact every time. If only I had a CNC machine at my disposal ;\
Hey **thirtytwoutside **- thanks for the tip about Gesso I spoke to a friend who’s an art major at CSULB and he also confirmed that this would make a nice filler and cover any dark coloring in the wood. So painting white over dark spots wouldn’t be a problem and it would make the wood smooth like porcelain after a little sanding. I’ll give it a try since I’ve got a few to experiment on 
This looks really great. I greatly admire your woodworking skills, but I admire your workspace more. I unfortunately don’t have that much room where I can have a dedicated woodworking area. I wish I had one like Tim (Timoe aka Norris Arcade Sticks) : (
~Paik
I’d love to work with different woods in the future! Although I don’t think I could do this shape with some of these woods but I have some other more organic ideas for that 
Man i want some of these so bad!! :lovin: your woodwork is stunning! :rock:
I swear to god, I’ll (along with other stick makers) will send an army of midgets (with bad intentions) to your house if you do purchase some of those woods, and commit blasphemy by painting them. 
CordellCP3 - Thank you but this is just the tip of the ice berg
**Imitrex **- Oh I know better than that trust me. I plan on studying the fine art of stains dies and clear coats. I wouldn’t want to hide that kind of beauty under any paint. My father uses the shop to build cabinets and re finish furniture so if you didn’t kick my ass he would lol But thank you for your concern.
A little help please
I need the diameter of the Sanwa and Seimitsu dust covers. In order to fit the Koren sticks I’ll need to have a 35mm hole in the plexiglass where the stick is mounted, most people mount them in 24 mm holes. I used a 1" hole om my stick about 25.4mm and it worked fine. I’m curious to see if a can hide a 35mm hole under it or do I need to make a special top for the Korean sticks. This would also help with the template for the art too.
There’s another thing I want to try and solve too, it’s the the snap in and screw in button problem. I want to be able to let people do both with the same design and I wonder if I can pull it off.
Here’s my idea - Drill the button holes with 2 little notches cut out on the sides in the MDF below the Plexi so the snap in buttons can fit in and so you can get them out. The Plexi will be screwed down in the corners so it moving around shouldn’t be a problem. The screw in buttons shouldn’t even be affected as they’ll fit in just the same as they always do. The only ting that might be a problem is what thickens plexi works best and will the art underneath get a little damaged if you not careful putting them in. I’ve never used snap in buttons and their hard to get a hold of to test this theory out. Has anyone tried this or can anyone confirm if this would work ?
Here’s my button hole template so far let me know what you think
http://www.flickr.com/photos/56701743@N00/3366305417/sizes/l/
Updated pic with new measurements!!!
I sent you an email back, Vol. Get at me on AIM if you want to discuss.