I’ve used fanta at my local arcade and they are pretty solid. Circle gate and bat top but not stiff at all.
First I just wanna say thanks for the supportive comments, you guys have motivated me to step it up and stay on track! I’ve got a big update coming with pics later today so check back and let me know what you think.
Yeah I’d really like to see that too 
But seriously if I can get my hands on some of those sticks or at least get the exact measurements I’m sure I can work something out. Yeah mounting height is a big factor too and something I need to take into account for the different plates but I think I can work that out since I’m actually mounting the stick to a metal plate that can me adjusted (well thats the plan anyway) it’s about 2mm thick and the plexi is about 3.5mm. The only stick that I really cant adjust the height of would be the Happ sticks given the depth of the box but I play on my Happ LE sticks mounted to metal on my Cabinet and have no problems. I don’t know the depth of the Fanta sticks but I imagine it’s about the same as the Happ’s just from what I’ve seen, but the actual stick looks shorter (can anyone confirm this?)
I’ll see if I can make an order for the (Myoungshin) sticks since they seem to be the most talked about.
BTW thanks for the dimensions I’ll add them to my sketchup model
Yeah TheGreench was saying the same thing. I guess they where on a SF4 cab at video94 for a little while. Thanks for the input
I will pay any amount to be a part of this sex train to stickville.
Looking at Laugh’s thread about Korean sticks, there’s a few problems (which is why I can see how Happ, Korean, and Sanwa (and even Seimitsu) are not that interchangeable).
Happ joysticks use a 1.125 inch hole (about 28.5mm) while Korean sticks use a 35mm hole (it’s the size of the black circle that the joystick sits on). Sanwa and Seimitsu use 30mm (edit: it’s actually 24mm)
The dimensions of the holes are different between Happ and Korean, as I mentioned in the previous post. I don’t have the Sanwa JLF-p1 or Seimitsu “ss” plate yet to compare, but they may also have a different dimension for the holes than the Happ and Korean.
Korean and Happ are common in that they need 20mm (or about 3/4") from the mounting plate to the top panel of your joystick, but Sanwa JLF’s need about half that at 9mm. Seimitsu, I don’t even know yet with the ‘SS’ plate and all.
The clearance from the bottom of the mounting plate to the bottom of the joystick is also different amongst all sticks, but it’s safe to say if you can fit the Happ (about 46mm), you can fit the rest.
I’ll probably have more info once I get my parts from Akihabara.
^^ You rock dude thanks! I actually saw that too I’ll have to adjust the mounting plate with a 35mm hole to fit the Koren sticks. I still need to do some more research cause with all these diffrent mounting plate hole patterns, my poor little plate will look like a piece of swiss cheese. I’m pretty sure I can get the most popular plates or at lease the T plates to all work together but we’ll see.
Sanwa and Seimitsu dimensions are conveniently here:
http://www.slagcoin.com/joystick/mounting_layering.html
There’s some ambiguity regarding the height of the stick compared to the panel, mostly because there are different shaft lengths. In that case, 9mm I mentioned above may not be correct.
Anyway, you’ll need some really crafty engineering if you want to fit all of these parts into your shell. And we didn’t even talk about buttons yet.
Oh I’ve already got that one bookmarked but thanks! Stick height that’s somewhat a matter of preference and can be adjusted. As for buttons that’s another story but I think most people will be happy with Sanwa\Seimitsu 30mm or the standard Happ buttons as they actually fit in the same hole pretty good I have no idea about the Koren buttons yet. I’m trying to find a way to get the snap in buttons to work with this case and I have a few ideas but I need to get some to test it out. Looks like need to do some more shopping anybody know where I can still get some Japanese parts???
i’m looking forward to seeing the final result. this looks real good.
ROFL - All aboard aah hahahaha hahahah!!! (intro crazy train)
Korean Crown standard buttons use a 28mm hole with a 35mm nut diameter, while the smaller Korean Crown buttons use a 24mm hole with a 28mm nut diameter.
More info available in Paik’s thread here: http://forums.shoryuken.com/showthread.php?t=169501
As for parts, try here:
They seem to still have stock, although it’s a 1-2 week wait period (which is better than nothing).
The first and second buttons on your template seem a little far apart. Love the cases though, they look great.
So this was a pretty busy weekend for me and I 'm exhausted but it feels really good to have another project to work on. :looney:
:wgrin:
Anyway I took most of the day Saturday to do a little shopping around and to visit a few of the local metal and wood shops! It was actually really cool I just wish I would have taken more pics but my camera was acting up. I did however get some nice shots of the hardwoods available and I put them up on my Flickr account so if anyone wants to brows through them be my guest. http://www.flickr.com/photos/56701743@N00/sets/72157615327377201/
So I picked up some Poplar 11’x7"x1" aka a 5/4 plank and some 3/4" Ultralight MDF (got it for 5 bucks) ended up only spending about 20 buck cause the wood was damaged. (Nothing I couldn’t just cut off or work around) Oh and they even cut it down so it would fit in 4 runner. Looks pretty good don’t you think 
I also went to a few metal shops and found a guy that will cut the Aluminum plates with his Hydrocut Waterjet and it’s pretty cheap too. Comes out to be about $2.20 a plate (No pics of the waterjet but I’ll get some next time promise)
I also picked up some Fostner bit’s 30mm and 24mm.
Now the real work begins so I busted out my schematics and went to work
Just making sure everything fits
My first attempt at those multi angled corners…
needs a few tweaks but overall it turned out pretty good.
Damn that looks sweet even if this is the bad one lol (Stupid knot) I should be able to fill that in and paint over it
Now the only question is can I duplicate it?
Yep
So I got my prototype gluing and the rest (+4)are on standby
Yeah that is correct I’m making 5 of these bad boy’s and 3 are currently spoken for by me, myself and I =P
So was playing around with the router and testing some different ways to mount the buttons in the frame ie the Home start and select buttons.
let me know what you think. (I know that Happ button is ugly and a little crooked I didn’t tighten it up, but it does sit straight when it’s in tight)
This is the next challenge I want to tackle…
Now as soon as I get my mounting plate dimensions all figured out I’ll get a few cut out and see if I can put it all together and start painting.
All comments and suggestions are welcome
You got skills man.
Would you mind sharing how you make those sweet multi faced angles?
Yeah I wish I had someone their with me to take pics while I was doing it but basically I just made the long cuts with the table saw then drew the lines I wanted to shave off with a pencil and hit it with the sanding wheel. The key to making this work was in the model I made and I’m not sure I want to give that away just yet
About the button being a little further out, you are correct they where a little off and I plan to fix that but thanks for reminding me.
Oh and thanks I’m really glad you like it
Wow they are looking great so far. Cant wait to see the finished product
Would definately buy one or two of these bad boys if they went up for sale
That shit looks HOT. Seriously… that is some quality work right there.
One word of advice, though. Don’t know if you have experience or whatever painting on wood, but I would suggest not painting on the actual wood itself (I come from an artist background). I would always use some kind of medium like Gesso or something… looks much cleaner and smoother.
Word. There are no problems painting wood.
Thanks. And I’ll be waiting for more info on that model. 
Tag, you’re it!
Wow these are sexy and amazing. By the way what program did you use to create those 3D models? I’m going to go ahead and guess that its Inventor. Just curious.