I want to see, I want to see the home of my old JLF
oooohh purty red!!
Painted. Still needs cleaning up (bits of tape gunk and stray silver paint that somehow managed to get under the tape).
It really is!
lol it is amazing how far the stick is located from the buttons…
That’s part of the reason I’m putting a bat top on it.
now u talk about it, i just realize too! its dam far!
I have one of these and I purchased it for the very reason the stick was far from the buttons. When I had the stick on my lap, it felt more ergonomic than the MadCatz and Hori sticks as my arms weren’t pointing inward. I was going to put a JLF in but then I decided to convert it to a fightboard a-la HitBox and I’m glad I did because I don’t really like the thought of drilling out a big hole in the bottom.
Overall, though, this is an OK stick to mod, provided you know what you can do with it.
Aside from some fine detailing, I believe this is done. Expect pics within the week before I turn it over to my friend. Yes, the guy who gave it to me has a PS2 again and wants it back, but is paying me for the parts/labor.
Bumpitty-bump.
First post updated with pics.
Wow, that kind of sucks after the time and effort you put into it.
Well, there comes a time when every father has to let his daughter go.
Father? You tarted that thing up and made it pretty, right before handing it to another guy, sounds more like a pimp…
Lol. But isn’t that exactly what we modders and builders do?
Updated the first post with the list of parts used.
I’d also like to note that the stick is quite heavy (since it has two metal weights inside it) and feels very solid for a plastic stick.
Updated, added this nice little sticker to the bottom panel.
http://www.d3vlicious.com/storage/files/project_twintail/IMG_0699.JPG
if its not too much trouble, could you tell more about how you did the wiring for this pcb?
i bought the same thing when i was in the phils this year (mostly because all i could find were 360 te’s and im on ps3 =P)
top notch mod =]
Solder off course.
I cut off the connector for the wiring and solder from there. The order from left to right should be:
Ground, Square, X, Circle, Triangle, R1, L1, R2, L2
Not to make myself look like a complete dumb ass, but is it possible to just use the wiring harness with quick connects? making this a solderless job.
The existing wires used with the board are made of flimsy crap. Even if you do manage to strip them and crimp .110s, they’re too short to reach the furthest buttons (and that still doesn’t solve the problem of grounds). You could use a harness from eTokki, but you’d still have to solder on to the board.