Hey Red_Five, I suggest contacting Paradise technical support for the recommended solution. I’m more of an electrical engineer than a mechanical one!
That said, here are a couple of things that I have used in the past that worked:
1 - Heating the screw with a soldering iron or hot air gun works better than 95% of the time for me
2 - Acetone (active ingredient in nail polish remover) and soak the screw and magnet
3 - Combination of the two above starting with a good acetone soak (overnight?)
If you try any of this and it works for you please post your results!
I’m wondering if the kit sold in Paradise Arcade Shop does include microswitches… as far as i can tell from the pictures it does not… I would like to have switches just to get a similar feeling to the original JLF
Just use it by itself without the switches. Switches would be constantly out of sync unless you have the magic touch to find the right setting that corresponds exactly to the omron switch specs… if not then it will be either too late or too early snap/click (since it depends on a given fixed actuation distance/depth from center/neutral ).
Not to mention it would be even worse with 4 way cardinal and 4 way diagonal modes as you would get that snap feedback even when it’s not supposed to happen since it doesn’t have a physical 4 way gate (diamond gate) to prevent it, that and the out of sync business cited previously.
Keep the switches for traditional JLF use , not for contactless sensors.
of course the switches aren’t connected , I was talking about the snap/click and the tactile feedback. and no the traditional feel is fucked up if you insist on using the omrons for some sort of “traditional feel” especially if you have an extreme setting say a very short or wide engage.
Just read what I said in my former post, it’s very clear.
It’s either the hall pcb or the omron pcb both don’t work simultaneously. the switches stay as they are and will only click at a specific distance from the neutral position depending on their specs which are fixed btw and cannot be adjusted via software like the contactless sensing can be .
Stop complicating the matter and use the magenta on its own without the damn snap switches.
For me it’s about the feel of a traditional sanwa, specifically the quick return to neutral. I tried it with a 2lb spring. Hated it. Standard spring is too weak IMO without the switches adding their resistance. Both was perfect for me. Being able to physically adjust the actuation distance of the switches isn’t the focus. Whether the profile has a small or large deadzone, the switches doesn’t bother me. It’s a preference.
I hear what you say. Considering what you’ve mentioned, I’d say go for the PAS 1.5lbs-force jlf spring if 2lbs is too much, on the other hand sure, micro switches do have a peculiar feel to them.
I tried the magenta and other contactless sticks in the past (not a ton of them either) and honestly I was not be able to cope with out of sync clicks due to the fact taht the settings would never coincide with the specs of the switches(probably a reason such a feature was absent from former contactless solutions) , so my last bit of advice would be that if you absolutely need to feel switches, the best compromise would be to either dampen as much the fightstick or to include in your magenta modded jlf some so called “silent” reed omron switches like those of the silent JLF just to get that feel of a switch spring helping in centering the shaft when returning to neutral, and if you’re ok with stock jlf omrons (omron V series in 200gf have a rather firm snap/click btw) , good for you, but please don’t tell other people that the out of sync click thing is not an issue, I understand it’s your personal preference and that is just a matter of taste, sure. There’s a reason why most if not all users just use the magenta PCB by itself without said omron switches, at least all the people I know . It bothers them but not you, I get it
Just a heads up, we will be adding the link version of the Magenta to the site soon!
In regards to microswitches, they are out of sync an most people who add them seem to remove them rather quickly after (some however do like them) Personally they drive me crazy to keep them in.
In regards to the OTTO DIY you should be able to use the body and pivot, but nothing else.
In regards to the Korean feel, buttercade has been producing adapters.
Again, if you don’t care about adjusting the actuation distance or the deadzone then why not just use a sanwa with a 2lb spring and switches. What’s the point of getting the magenta?
I’m not sure where I said I didn’t care about the actuation distance? I have four different profiles. All of them very different. Even if I didn’t change any profiles, the MAGENTA is still better than a base Sanwa due to actuation speed and product longevity. If I take care of it, it should last forever.
The physical actuation distance of the switches doesn’t bother me. They’re there for the resistance and tactile feedback. I played on an optical stick for years. I find I enjoy the feedback more.
I may change my mind one day. I bought an octagonal gate from buttercade a while back and discovered I’d rather have a square gate. I really need my corners. If he decided to make a hybrid circle with pronounced corners I’d shell out for it.
I’m glad a link is coming for the magenta. Without one I can’t build a Hitbox hybrid. Sooooon…
Just got my new Magenta in. I want to change the spring and was able to remove the screw w/ magnet without issue but the actuator wouldn’t come off. Should I be trying to force it off or is there a trick to it? Thanks in advance.
