I play UMvC3, MvCI and BBTAG quite a bit. The idea was to make Lightning Loops easier (tkDP motions or normal jumps into immediate DP motions). I tend to drop them because my down inputs don’t register, so I made the cardinals larger. I then started missing them because my diagonals were missing…) Tk motions aren’t bad, but they yield less damage. The killer is the 8 before the 623. Messes me up. I get drops because I get fireball instead of DP.
I play Guile in SFV. Partitioned Sonic Booms gave me trouble, so I made the cardinals easier to activate. Works like a charm. I can loop Booms easier as a result. Charging for Flash Kicks is easier too. This setup is amazing for charge characters IMO.
Tried this for Zero Loops and Magneto Hyper Grav Loops. Hyper grab loops involved a buffered super jump (2 8) followed by an immediate diagonal air dash) the diagonal dash doesn’t register for me. Zero Loops give me the same issue. I get a fireball motion instead of a DP.
BBTAG doesn’t have DP motions AFAIK, like DBFZ, so no issues with either. I’ll readily admit this is just slop on my part, but I hope I can tweak this a bit to make up for it. I hope all of this makes sense.
Edit: Bleh…should have cropped those. My apologies.
The diagonals being so close to the center is dead set going to get you accidental jumps and triggers you don’t want. The top diagonals being larger is a good idea for getting faster jumps but dashing back or forward will hit those too easy. There isn’t much room for the human variation that comes into play when double tapping back or forward. Check it out sometime and watch how the dot moves, if you can do a perfectly horizontal X axis every time then I’d say go for it but I don’t know any humans who can. I’d slide those back by about 1, 1 & 1/2, or 2 rings back. The bottom ones I’d make a little more like the stock default profile. I think in this profile your diagonals are missing because they’re too skinny, you have to go to the far extremes of the corners to hit them proper. I’d try a setting of -8 or -9 instead of -10 and see if that helps a little.
Right now as I see it, tkDP would require extreme corners of the gate and then a normal DP which the DF would also require an extreme corner. If you want a faster DB, DF, UF then you need to shorten the distance between them which means shrinking the cardinals a little. When they’re all more equal, you get from one to the other faster than if you have one really large direction in between two others you need to hit. Ideally, we’d be able to separate the top and bottom cardinal sizes so that you could have expanded lower diagonals for very fast DB to DF but smaller higher diagonals so you can still double tap dash and not get a jump instead, but that isn’t a feature yet.
If you’re having problems on one side vs the other, I’m guessing you tend to have a “lean” when you do inputs. Use the Fine Rotation feature to see if that helps your execution on the left side. Easy way to visually see what it does is to hold your joystick left, and then click on the rotation slider. You’ll see the dot move up or down depending on if you slide left or right. This helps correct left vs right inputs. Best way to see how your hand tends to lean is to do dashing on the left side and then the right. If you see the dot lean down forward more when you dash right, then slide it left a bit and that will correct the axis. Do a DP motion and check the dot, left vs right, and adjust the slider. Try to balance it between dashes and DP to see if you can get something consistent.
Good thing about the Up direction is that UB and UF also count as “8” so hitting those easy before going to the DP requires having them a little closer to the circle, but not so close you hit them while dashing.
This is a pretty good profile for ground game play styles BUT, with a charge character (I’ve played them almost my whole life up until the last few years) you really need to hit those “corners” faster so having them so skinny actually is hurting the charge game. You can easily set that to -7 or -6 and still not get accidental inputs when dashing. You can also slide the left and right cardinals closer to the center so you immediately go from one to the other. You can do an extra ring closer, easy. With your DB and DF, you can easily make those another 2 to 3 rings closer to the center. Good for getting to the next charge input after crossing up an opponent. Great thing about corners for charge characters, is the game sees them as 2 inputs, so you need down or back obviously being in DB is just as good as B for Sonic Boom looping.
This profile is actually close to what I use for charge characters. I actually tend to use the same profile no matter what game or character I play since I tend to prefer that setup. You have the right idea in making the jumps a little harder to hit than your ground inputs, but they’re not so extreme that you couldn’t do very short input hops in say KoF. I think the reason you’re missing that air dash is because UF and UB isn’t as close to center as it could be. You could probably go 1 or 2 more rings closer, that will give you a near instant diagonal from neutralizing the joystick. Perhaps try a -4 for diagonal size as well. Does the super jump need to be a neutral super, or can you super jump diagonally and still get the same effect? Because if you can do 2 9 instead of 2 8 then you’re already on 8 for an air dash forward. On this profile, if you’re getting a FB instead of DP after the TK, then you’re hitting forward, so the -4 diagonal might help a bit. Try to consciously hit the corner of the gate when finishing that move because it seems like you’re not deep enough in it if you’re getting a fireball at the end.
Let me know what you think and I’ll see what else I can do.
This is the profile I’m using mainly for UMVC3. I was wondering if I can improve on it. The technique I want to make easier is f.H the frame after jumping uf with Dr. Strange. I don’t want to compromise doing qcf or srk motions. Also, would using another gate ease the shift from uf to f? Thanks.
Just out of curiosity why do you have the left and right so close to center? Do you have any issues dashing with that? From my experience if I have it too close I get dashing problems because I won’t fully neutralize before I tap the direction again. It also looks to me like if you’re going to go for a forward jump, you’re going to hit forward first if you’re in the neutral position because there’s such a small deadzone.
Anyway, you might want to try making the up direction shorter by a ring and then making up forward and up back longer by 2, which will allow you to hit the UF direction faster. With your current profile it will be impossible to make the F direction easier to hit, considering how large it is and you have diagonals at a minimum so F takes priority over anything else at that point. When you jump forward you should have to barely move the joystick down to get into the F position. Can you elaborate on your execution and how you’re not getting that input chain?
For the left and right cardinals, double tap dashing feels nice by lightly tapping in that direction.
The reason why the cardinals are so wide was to fix an annoying problem from jumping up forward and transitioning to forward a frame apart. Most of the time jumping up forward I would still get uf+H instead of the desired f+H because of how fast it needs to be input. By making the cardinals wider I travel less which results in being able to hit forward faster from the uf position.
Yes, and with what you have you’re already at the maximum speed you can go from UF to F. The only other thing I can point out is to make the diagonals a little longer so you can hit them earlier in the neutral, then you can move forward a little more rather than down or down forward to get f.H input.
Cool, I’ll try those suggestions. Another thing, I’ve used it on the PS2 before to play CVS2 but I think you said that the voltage or something would need to be adjusted. Perhaps thats why sometimes it would bug out and stick in some directions until I reset it
Skulls and warnings, but butteroj actually made the thing (Thanks!) and it is great, so don’t say no to tinkering. For anyone using the new gates, I only had to modify my configs slightly by bringing the directions a few percent closer to center.
I do stand by my previous statement about not modify the stock Paradise square gate, especially as the previous poster had indicated he was attempting.
If you really want to change things up, get in touch with @butteroj and see about getting one of his compatible circular or octagon gates as an alternative. It’s a really well done third party mod for Magenta.
You could try Crossover / Wine but I’ve never successfully ran it on the Linux versions. You can get the software to run but it won’t find the Magenta boards on the USB ports. Shame, too, because if it would work on Wine then we could make cool things like a dedicated touch screen based Raspberry Pi that you could take on the go, and program Magenta levers on the fly as you travel.
Avoid Wine like the plague! It’s been in development hell since the beginning and always 10-15 years behind the curve! Seriously, if you need to run PC software on a mac your best choices are parallels, vmware fusion and even virtualbox if you want a free solution.
If you like hardware, snag a used notebook off of Craig’s list or a cheap windows tablet from ebay or amazon. The PI is really an under powered soic that serves a niche role and not much more. Recompiling drivers or anything useful on the PI can take hours if not days. Believe me, I have the logs to back it up…
So why not make a mobile based iOS/Android software port that can connect via bluetooth? Missing Mac support is a basic need for a lot of people, and making a mobile version of the software would make this not only more user friendly but actually make teching these levers on the go much easier!
Wine is getting much better, a ton of development is going into it and it even has Valve backing it. VMWare and VirtualBox both require a LICENSED Windows to use them and not everyone has one or wants to spend money on it. On Linux you could also use QEMU/KVM or Xen.
You can also use a much beefier PC to cross compille code for the Raspberry Pi. No reason to use the actual Pi to compile code when there are much faster machinse out there that can do it for you.
Not sure where else I would ask this question but i’m having some trouble removing the screw on the bottom of the magenta. I’ve been using a hair dryer to try to loosen the loctite but no matter how long i have the hair dryer focused on the screw, it seems to not want to comes loose. I’m not sure if maybe i’m missing a step here or if I just got some really stubborn loctite lol. Should I be trying to hold the stick in place somehow to get a better grip? Thanks in advance
