I agree, I do not like the new SRK forum software but at least SRK is still here.
Search this thread for “Qanba Dragon” and there was a whole discussion and images back on May 11th. One image shows where to solder 5v and GND and another showing you could use one of the jst ph2 LED connectors on the Dragon for power.
Here’s a link to the solder option: https://archive.supercombo.gg/t/project-magenta-2017/183175/235
Been using it since mid May. Crammed inside a VSHG. Best investment on arcade parts i’ve ever made. Installed a 3 pound spring. Clear battop.
I main Tekken.
Few things I’ve noticed though. maybe the battop is a bit heavy? I had to adjust the up and down zones because I was getting a lot of random sidesteps/hops.
I’m using it with the sanwa switches in so I get some tactile feedback, but had trouble getting the Magenta to click into place. Luckily, the VSHG weight plate saves the day and keeps everything in perfect position without the click. Anyone else running it with switches have this problem?
I spoke with paradise last week and they said this was caused by a cracked magnet. Swapping out the magnet resolved the issue.
Checkout @butteroj 's latest video of the Siren v2 prototype board. The Siren ships with blue leds (they are way cooler imo) but he got custom board with yellow/orange leds for all his hard work and feedback during the test phase. Much appreciated @butteroj !
I too have problems with the programming mode. I followed the procedure to be in programming mode but it does not change anything.
How did you create a profile?
If the setup procedure everyone else is using does not work, you should contact Paradise for support.
https://archive.supercombo.gg/t/project-magenta-2017/183175/214?u=zonbipanda
OK, how to return to normal mode? Even by removing the mini usb, the light “CPU” flashes quickly
Moreover, I can not change profile with my button
Did you download the setup software and run it? Please try to be more specific about what you have done to try to resolve.
If anyone is interested I have a very limited supply of (no soldering required) custom magenta power adapter cables for the Qanba Obsidian, Qanba Dragon and Razer Panthera fight sticks. Reach out to me via PM and I will process requests in the order they come in.
Edit: I can also do extra long power cables for Magenta to the Brook with screw terminals.
yes, with the mini usb, the software launches and the light “CPU” flashes quickly. I installed the “butteroj” file. I left the software and removed the mini usb, there is only the power supply by the 2 pins, next to the JST connector. I connected a button to change profile but it does not work. I do not know if he is well put
In addition, I left the program and the light of the “CPU”, still flashes as fast as normally, it should flash slowly
Can you do the following?:
1: remove USB and 2pin 5v cable
2: remove “mode” button harness
3: attach 5v cable
4: power on
5: try pressing on board mode button
6: if that works attach external mode button and press
I just tried, it does not change anything.
I should try to uninstall the driver and reinstall it.
The mini usb is removed and the “CPU” light always flashes fast. It’s normal ?
After looking at your picture it appears you have installed a remote switch. Disconnect your custom cable from the 4 pin header on the magenta as your external cable + button may be the problem. If the magenta works correctly using only the usb cable and the on board mode switch then we know the problem is with your external cable setup.
no, unfortunately it does not change. I disconnected everything, even the jst, it remains, only the mini usb. I press the “mode” button and nothing happens. In addition, I can change or modify programs without pressing the “mode” button while turning on the magenta. It is not normal.
Apart from that, the controls work very well
Sounds like you may still be “doing it wrong”. I suggest contacting Paradise support for assistance and have them walk you through the power and USB connection. Is there any chance you connected the 4 pin header wrong earlier and swapped the cables back?
Perhaps something to think about with the design re: swapping out springs (for the next revision).
Is heating the shaft with a hairdryer/heatgun the best idea if the whole thing is designed around magnets?
Not sure about the temperatures this happens at, but don’t magnets lose their charge if you heat them too much?
I’m in touch with them on Facebook. I think it’s a magenta problem, but I’ll try on another pc
That would be up to Paradise but a standard hair dryer held at 4" or so would not really impact the performance of a magnet. However, I would discourage anyone from using a paint stripper or surface mount soldering rework station. I have asked Paradise before and they are using Loctite 242 which is designed to work with stainless and is reversible. You don’t actually need heat to remove this flavor of Loctite but gently heating the bolt makes removal a lot easier and much less risky.
If by some chance you are heating the jlf shaft and magnet until they are glowing red hot… you are doing it wrong,
Do the power wires need to be soldered on to the connectors on a Panthera pcb?
“no need to heat to remove Loctite”
Lol, almost ate through the hex pattern trying. Lucky I calmed down and @ PA on twitter.
In any case, I think it’s important to keep an open mind so Rev 2 is even more perfect than Rev 1.
