Good luck Loc!
I feel incredibly newbish for this, so I’m hoping these will be the last of my questions. I was trying to unscrew the screw that holds the magnet and actuator in so I could use a heavier spring but I wasn’t making any progress on this.
I thought holding the actuator in place while turning the allen key might work but I don’t think it did anything at all. Is there a trick to this?
Please do not use a different screw. There is literally no room for a bigger head between the actuator and hall sensors. It will also change the magnetic properties.
In regards to removing the screw, use a hair dryer on the actuator and screw to free up the loctite and it should come out easily.
That was a typo, I had meant that I wanted to use a heavier spring. Thanks again for the info, I’ll edit my last post to avoid further confusion.
has anyone else had problems setting up their magenta? i have it plugged into my ufb. magenta power leds are green, the cpu led is blinking green, and output led is blue on 3. software loaded and running, i plug the usb in and nothing. computer doesnt recognize the device.
ive tried both usb 3 and usb2 ports, nothing. cable is a brand new usb 2.0 mini cable. no missing drivers in device manager either.
You have to hold the mode button on the magenta when you plug it into the PC. It says this on the splash screen for the software in big bold letters.
How to put the Magenta Programmable Fightstick into setup:
Just got my MAGENTA! Where/How would you recommend hooking up the power supply on a Brooke PS4+ Audio Board? Here is the website layout: http://www.brookaccessory.com/detail/09922855/
Here is a pic of my board if that is easier:
Please and thank you!
Magenta power from Brook Board
If you are trying to power the Magenta from the Brook adapter…
Assuming the documentation on the Brook site you linked is correct, you should be able to pull +5 VDC (VDD on Brook) and the GROUND on the pins shown in the image below. If you have a volt meter I strongly suggest you verify the label and terminal pins on the brook before connecting the Magenta. I do not own a brook so can do nothing more than read the docs they have posted.
Thanks @ZonbiPanda , I do have a multimeter. I’ll use that then try it out.
I’ll report back for the thread.
EDIT: ZonbiPanda’s suggestion worked great. Tested the spot on my board, then installed the wires and now I’m playing around with it. Everything is working.
im having a hard time finding those big bold letters.
@ZonbiPanda thx for instructions, i didnt get any with my package.
I thought I knew what I was doing but apparently not. I assumed I could just connect the 2 pin with another 2 pin into one of the led slots but was way off. I’m trying to come up with a solderless solution for the qanba dragon but cannot find any imagery to confirm where to plug in the wire for the 5 volt power. I’ve reached out to qanba and eightarc but until then I’m kind of lost and will have to research more.
I have a Qanba Obsidian but not the Dragon. Post some good pictures of the Dragon controller and I may be able to help. Do you have a volt/multimeter and know how to use it?
Update:
Not much technical data out there on the Dragon yet. Every link I saw about modding was nothing more than swapping colored buttons and not losing screws when you open the case. I did reach out to a buddy who has a Dragon on the way but may not hear back until next week. Hopefully you find some info you can share before then.
Qanba told me they were not able to provide anything. I’ll upload some pictures so hopefully that will be of help to everyone. Thank you.
To answer your question. I don’t have a volt/multimeter but I will do some research.
Here are a few snapshots of the pcb. The open 5 pin is where the microphone goes and the open 2 pin slot was for the led that lights up when you open up the inside of the stick.
Typical customer support response there. Either they had no idea what you were talking about or company policy prevents them from assisting you with anything not included in the box when you purchased the fightstick.
Post pics and I’ll have a look. Might also be worth your time to post here in either the Qanba support forums or maybe in one of the modder threads. This is one of those simple questions that would take longer to open the fightstick case than to actually find the +5V and GROUND points with a volt meter.
Update 1:
Saw the pictures sent you a PM. Still recommend you track someone down with a Dragon and a meter.
Update 2:
DO NOT use the small J7 connector on the Qanba Dragon to power the Magenta. This will NOT work.
I was careless and tried the J7 a few days ago but all is intact thankfully. the magenta works on the computer with the mini and the arcade stick works in general.
Ya, I really can’t see how the magenta or qanba would be harmed by connecting to the J7 but it simply will not work supplying power… If you zoom in on the picture you posted you can see in tiny text both pins say LED. The parts connected to each pin are mostly there for protection and act as a buffer driven by either Q2 or Q5. All this looks well insulated from the controller logic so I think you’re safe and should not have damaged either device.
I just wanted to give thanks to Zonbipanda and Accel for helping me out and also Butteroj just in general for all he is doing for this board. I’m all set up now and blown away. I’m excited to see what people come up with for their custom presets.
@butteroj and @zonbipanda thank you! things are moving here is a diagram of where to connect to the UFB or audio board. https://www.facebook.com/paradisearcadeshopcom/posts/1910090145718530
Got my Magenta in last Friday. It took some tweaking on the hardware side but my initial impressions are positive and so far it’s everything I can ask for in a stick.
I dropped it into my Panzer UFB stick and hooked it up to power and an outside button for mode switch with no trouble. I didn’t mess with the hardware or software other than dropping in a set of JLF switches. I took it to my Saturday CvS2/GG+R local and noticed right away that the installed spring was heavier than the standard JLF spring, which I didn’t care for at all. I also noticed I was missing some basic supers. Something was going on.
Today I started to figure out what was up, starting with the hardware. I swapped the spring in the Magenta with the standard JLF spring from the JLF stick I’d been using before, adding some Loctite Blue to secure the screw as recommended. (Why it doesn’t come with a standard 0.9 lb. spring pre-installed is beyond me.)
Then I noticed that the gate/board housing wasn’t clipping in snugly on top of the JLF switches. Without the switches, it was on there tightly. But with them the board would slip off with very little effort. This might have explained why I was missing inputs.
I solved this problem by taking an Xacto knife and shaving away some plastic that was sticking up near the holes where the clips lock into. You can see the raised plastic protrusions quite clearly in the top and right sides of the photo below, but they were on all four clip holes. Reducing that down to be level with the surrounding plastic allowed the clips to lock in, solving that problem.
I spent a bit of time playing CvS2 and it felt great right away. It feels just like a JLF (it should, with the spring weight and the switches) but with the added benefit of that Magenta magic. I felt like I was hitting supers a lot more consistently all of a sudden. I’ll need more time in actual matches to see if that keeps up, but so far so good.
I most appreciate how I can monitor the stick in real-time while playing. This is a dream feature for me. If I miss a super I can practice the motion and see, on-the-spot, if I’m doing something wrong. Execution has always been a weakness of mine. It’s great to be able to visually see if I’m doing something right before I try to learn the muscle memory for it.
With the software I’ve programmed in some basic tweaks for the standard JLF setup, a true 4-way setup (no diagonals) for puzzle games, and a true 8-way for shumps. I’ll probably use the 4th profile for 3D fighters like SC6 coming up.
Thanks Paradise for finally getting this thing finished. It’s amazing (so far)!
