That would be up to Paradise but a standard hair dryer held at 4" or so would not really impact the performance of a magnet. However, I would discourage anyone from using a paint stripper or surface mount soldering rework station. I have asked Paradise before and they are using Loctite 242 which is designed to work with stainless and is reversible. You don’t actually need heat to remove this flavor of Loctite but gently heating the bolt makes removal a lot easier and much less risky.
If by some chance you are heating the jlf shaft and magnet until they are glowing red hot… you are doing it wrong,
You can solder or use what is known as a Dupont connector for the power. Paradise ships Magenta with a JST connector but you can remove the plastic JST housing and slide the pins over the male Dupont connector in the Razer. (Search back to your last post in this thread.)
I have one custom extra long Panthera connector available for sale to anyone who needs it.
Since there were no issues with the Siren installs at CEO, I am releasing the very last spare units I was holding in reserve. If anyone wants one of the remote/external mode switches for the Magenta send me a private message. When these last few are gone they are gone!
To this day, MvC2 doesn’t feel right on anything besides a Happ Comp or P360. iL makes a great Competition stick.
I had to migrate over tho. With practice my FF UF combos and pressure got worlds better. Japanese levers take more finesse but they’re a lot faster and more accurate IMO.
Sounds like you are not comfortable modifying a fighstick so your best bet is to contact a local moder to help you with the installation.
If you still want to try it yourself, I suggest posting pictures of what you have and explain how you want it connected. Include any special requirements like “I can’t solder”, etc. You’re bound to get more help from the community that way than posting the same comments every couple of weeks.
You need to take a photo as there shouldn’t be any wires going there. That is a secondary on the PCB. The prongs you are looking for should be to the right of the wires that are connected.
I see the 5 prongs on the right but the usb wires are running through the other side compared to the above photo, feels like a bit of a risk to be soldering that close to them. Is it possible to use the 5 pins on the left?
Those wires should not be going through those prongs touching like that. Try to pull them out and move them to the left so those wires are free from the prongs (if you see any exposed wire wrap some electric tape around it). Solder free option: Take the JST Connector that came with the magenta to power it and disassemble the two heads from their case. You can then use those two heads to slide onto the prongs, but use something like a coffee straw to put over the wires just in case the prongs moves in transport (mine held pretty firm after I got them on their right), because if they touch another prong it could short out your stick.
I had access to the Panthera briefly this afternoon but did not have a meter to check power. I did snag some photos and there are a number of headers on there that may do exactly the same thing. Sooner or later the planets will align and I will have everything needed to better document the Panthera pcb even if it is on the show floor at EVO!
