Magenta requires a +5 VDC power source to operate. If you’re doing something really crazy and can not find a 5V supply, send me a PM and I may be able to help providing you are willing to do the leg work on the required research.
Magenta does not apply any voltage to the JST 5 pin joystick output and relies on the brook controller to pull these signal lines high to controller voltage. Magenta only grounds these pins to indicate a direction, exactly as a legacy mechanical switch would.
No info on anything EZ mod here. Best to try another thread.
AFAIK the MAGENTA comes with different strength springs, but swapping them can be tricky for some. Has anyone tried a hollow bat or ball top instead? Less weight, faster return to center and no deflection. They sell them at focusattack.
If no one else had tried them, I will do so and provide feedback.
I have a question for Magenta owners. I have two Magenta levers. Both PCB’s work on one lever and both do not work on the other lever. The only difference being the shaft/actuator has been disassembled on the lever that both PCB’s don’t work with.
Has anyone else experienced this issue? Does anyone have an idea of what the issue may be? Did the magnet on the actuator possibly get de-magnatized?
I’m planning to test the PCB on a Korean lever which I made a mounting plate for, but I’m a bit hesitant to take apart my second Magenta to test with after the shaft stopped responding on the first.
Side question, does anyone have insight as to the purpose of the thin metal washer which sits under the bottom actuator piece? I figured it may be integral to the function of the lever, but it tends to flop around so I’m not sure that it is.
Just wondering for those who owned the Magenta since it got released if they would like to share profiles of their setups. So far, it’s almost perfect but it seems like I’m still having issues of imputing either and extra uf or ub when doing quarter circle motions.
The Retro Board does work with the EZ mod. You’ll need to completely remove the USB connector and route an RJ45 cable. I was able to stack my UFB with my Retro Board and everything is functioning fine.
hmmm who do i talk to about getting a replacement magnet?
Anyone got a part number/code or dimensions so i can hunt one down myself… i’d like to avoid ordering through PAS cos shipping costs me a lot to Australia
There is another thread here in the tech forums where a few profiles have been posted. It’s ultimately very subjective though as everyone has different habits both good and bad.
I’ve said this before and will say it again, your best bet is to find a buddy to change the configuration while you are practicing your moves. With Magenta you can really feel the difference as the programming sliders are moved around. Once you have something that works, save the profile and start a new profile. Sometimes there is more than one way to achieve the same results so the more you tinker the better Magenta will be tailored to your play style.
In my experience you can get a good setup in under 5 minutes of testing, a very good setup in 30 minutes and damn near perfect in 45 to 60 minutes. Once you are consistently hitting all of your combos save the profile and take a break before moving on to the next game or character. Like anything, the more time you spend practicing and tuning, the better your results will be.
I believe the screw is a #4-40 x 3/8" button head but a slightly longer screw should work too. The button head is important as a pan head is too large and will make contact with and damage the pcb.
Paradise does or will soon have a replacement kit available on their web site. If you can’t find it, contact paradise support and they will be able to assist you.
I swapped out the 2lbs spring for the stock one. World of difference for me. I rest my hand next to the joystick and use my wrist and fingers for commands. Since I never let go completely I don’t care about deflection, and the lighter tension lets me play with more finesse.
This thing is darn near perfect now. I tooled around with a custom map for Zero’s lightning loops. I was consistent dropping the normal jump Zoops (TK Zoops are much easier for me).
I was barely missing down, so I wasn’t getting DPs. I tried making DOWN larger and shrinking the diagonals. Nope. Rotating the map made no discernible difference for me. Not even sure what that does because you don’t see which way you’re rotating the map in the software. I assume that’s the feature that lets you compensate for hooks and slices?
Also: where do I apply the blue loctite to protect the magenta from damage? On the threads of the screw? Where the magnet sits and on the screw head?
You will need to contact Paradise about the magnet specifics or just order the kit from their web site. I know they use a special magnet with a specific Tesla value so just any random magnet probably will not work.