So, preorders should have arrived by now… Where’s the reviews/impressions?
I was a bit surprised that there wasn’t a writeup or anything for the final version on the front page. I haven’t been able to use mine anywhere as much as I’d like to due to personal issues but man, this thing is the best lever I’ve ever used BY FAR. I’d really like to see what kind of profiles everyone’s using because I’m struggling to settle. 
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After using it since I got it last week I have to say I’m really enjoying it. Still a scrub though 
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Thanks for this, I’ll be sure to try it when I get back from work.
I would not recommend modifying the magenta base to anyone reading this.
Paradise may have their own thoughts on this but once you remove plastic you can’t go back. I have a couple of sanwa switch plates here and after measuring both I can honestly say the sanwa switch plates vary greatly in quality. Both have raised text and circles around the screw holes on the side of the sanwa switches. The excess plastic on the side of the sanwa switch can easily be sanded down or scraped with an xacto knife to get a better fit with magenta. I have only experimented with the one so far but a light sanding to reduce the overall height of the text on the sanwa switches did the trick. My other sanwa switch plate fit right in for a tight lock with magenta no sanding required.
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And for closure on finding 5 volt power on the the Qanba Dragon fightstick, @LogDugg forwarded me this image with the pads labeled. I still do not have a Dragon so I highly recommend testing with a volt meter before you start soldering.
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Try this for Tekken 7 with Heihachi Mishima (picture from the Magenta Beta)
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I just got my magenta and don’t understand how to change out the springs on it. Can anyone please have steps or pics on how to do it? Thank you if you can
If anyone is doing twitch streaming with a magenta lever shoot me a pm. I’ve been working on a magenta overlay plugin but need to better understand the tools people are using.
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1:) Remove magenta PCB and black holder from JLF body exposing the shaft and actuator assembly
2:) Heat up screw with hairdryer to loosen loctite
3:) Using a 1/16 Allen key carefully unscrew retaining screw from shaft, taking extra caution to make sure the actuator doesn’t shoot you in the eye.
4:) Change spring
5:) Apply a dab of blue loctite on screw hole in shaft
6:) Reassemble actuator and screw in screw
7:) Wait 10 minutes for loctite to set
8:) Your done
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I just did the layout you suggested but I’m unable to hit up-left half of the time. I’m able to hit it if I wiggle the stick in that radius. Is this something you’ve experienced yourself?
@ZonbiPanda I’m not really a Heihachi guy but I’ll definitely give it a shot.
No sir. Just adjust that direction a degree or 2 till it hits every time.
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@Accel I have one of the Magenta beta sticks with the white 3d printed base and the setup I posted requires you to ride the gate to hit that diagonal. That’s the point! The final version of Magenta with the black base has a more polished square gate than my white 3d printed base which is starting to show some wear. I really should upgrade my TE2 with the latest version.
As @butteroj said, adjust your diagonal a sliders a bit until you hit the activation zone. The whole point of having a near infinitely adjustable stick is that you can customize it for you play and not be stuck with a one size fits all stick. 
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Thanks guys, I appreciate the feedback as always. Sorry for the questions that have seemingly easy answers!
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Kinda cross posting here but Paradise Arcade will have a couple of the Magenta Siren on display at Combo Breaker this weekend. If you’re at the show, stop by and check it out.
For anyone curious about installing the Magenta in a Razer Panthera and powering it from the default board. You can use the AUX pins next to the USB cord. There are 5 prongs. You will need to place the red wire on prong 1 and the black wire on prong 4 as shown in the image below.
Note: This image show the wires being soldered on but it is not required. You can use the JST connector that comes with the Magenta, but you have to remove the individual headers. You just have to push the little plastic tabs up on the JST connector and then pull out the individual headers. You can then slide these right over the prongs. It holds pretty well but if you are concerned about it coming lose you can set them with some hot glue.
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Hey, not to beat you up to bad on the soldering but those solder joints don’t look very healthy. I would recommend using some flux and tinning both the pins and wires separately before soldering the two together.
Get some heat shrink tubing and slide it over the connected wire and pin to ensure nothing shorts too. If you don’t have the tubing than any insulator, even masking tape, would be beneficial as a temporary fix. You really don’t want the wires snapping off and causing a short if they touch another pin.
Otherwise, nice job on locating the +5V and GND on the Panthera. Maybe Paradise can build up some cable and offer them for sale???