I have an Obsidian so that was my fear too when I saw the video that mentioned a 3-pin connector. Butteroj had mentioned to me that this could be fixed with the right connector, so I bought some 2-pin JST connectors which I’m hoping to try when I get home in an hour or so.
EDIT: I don’t know how the Dragon looks on the inside but the connectors I bought were the wrong size, so I used one from the side LEDs on my stick. I wasn’t planning on using them again so it’s OK. This might be something to consider depending on how the Dragon is.
Sorry for the double posts but I’ve got a funny issue and I’m hoping someone has an idea on how to fix it. My inputs are reversed when looking at the controller properties in Windows and Magenta.
I’m getting the same issue regardless of how I’ve rotated the board and the inputs are never aligned even when trying to calibrate or rotate in the Magenta app.
It’s all dependent on how you wired the harness and orient the PCB. The setting called output map solves this if rotating doesn’t. It has 23 maps which make up any sort of wiring you could possibly do. Go through them till you find the one that works.
I swapped out the 3-pin connector with the 2-pin but the cord was too short. It was so close and would have worked if I rotated the mounting plate but then I stripped one of the threads on it. I’ll have to try something like you had mentioned or order some longer ones. Thanks for the suggestions. I’ll get it eventually.
I feel incredibly newbish for this, so I’m hoping these will be the last of my questions. I was trying to unscrew the screw that holds the magnet and actuator in so I could use a heavier spring but I wasn’t making any progress on this.
I thought holding the actuator in place while turning the allen key might work but I don’t think it did anything at all. Is there a trick to this?
Please do not use a different screw. There is literally no room for a bigger head between the actuator and hall sensors. It will also change the magnetic properties.
In regards to removing the screw, use a hair dryer on the actuator and screw to free up the loctite and it should come out easily.
has anyone else had problems setting up their magenta? i have it plugged into my ufb. magenta power leds are green, the cpu led is blinking green, and output led is blue on 3. software loaded and running, i plug the usb in and nothing. computer doesnt recognize the device.
ive tried both usb 3 and usb2 ports, nothing. cable is a brand new usb 2.0 mini cable. no missing drivers in device manager either.
If you are trying to power the Magenta from the Brook adapter…
Assuming the documentation on the Brook site you linked is correct, you should be able to pull +5 VDC (VDD on Brook) and the GROUND on the pins shown in the image below. If you have a volt meter I strongly suggest you verify the label and terminal pins on the brook before connecting the Magenta. I do not own a brook so can do nothing more than read the docs they have posted.
Thanks @ZonbiPanda , I do have a multimeter. I’ll use that then try it out.
I’ll report back for the thread.
EDIT: ZonbiPanda’s suggestion worked great. Tested the spot on my board, then installed the wires and now I’m playing around with it. Everything is working.
I thought I knew what I was doing but apparently not. I assumed I could just connect the 2 pin with another 2 pin into one of the led slots but was way off. I’m trying to come up with a solderless solution for the qanba dragon but cannot find any imagery to confirm where to plug in the wire for the 5 volt power. I’ve reached out to qanba and eightarc but until then I’m kind of lost and will have to research more.
I have a Qanba Obsidian but not the Dragon. Post some good pictures of the Dragon controller and I may be able to help. Do you have a volt/multimeter and know how to use it?
Update:
Not much technical data out there on the Dragon yet. Every link I saw about modding was nothing more than swapping colored buttons and not losing screws when you open the case. I did reach out to a buddy who has a Dragon on the way but may not hear back until next week. Hopefully you find some info you can share before then.
Here are a few snapshots of the pcb. The open 5 pin is where the microphone goes and the open 2 pin slot was for the led that lights up when you open up the inside of the stick.
Typical customer support response there. Either they had no idea what you were talking about or company policy prevents them from assisting you with anything not included in the box when you purchased the fightstick.
Post pics and I’ll have a look. Might also be worth your time to post here in either the Qanba support forums or maybe in one of the modder threads. This is one of those simple questions that would take longer to open the fightstick case than to actually find the +5V and GROUND points with a volt meter.
Update 1:
Saw the pictures sent you a PM. Still recommend you track someone down with a Dragon and a meter.
Update 2:
DO NOT use the small J7 connector on the Qanba Dragon to power the Magenta. This will NOT work.
