I got a sample chip from Linear Technology today and made a usb charger for a 18650 lith-ion 3.6v cell. I used the LTC405-4.2 chip. I requested a sample of the max1811 and will try that out when I receive it.
The complete dual wireless mod is practically finished. There’s really only 2 issues left. One would be to have a better switch setup, as I’m using 2 DPDT switches. The other is a minor issue while the xbox controller is hooked up through usb. While I can get the ps3 controller to play in wired mode, I can’t do the same with the 360 controller. I guess the solution would be to use those cables in the play n charge kits.
I’ll try to work on a full complete guide in the following weeks. In the mean time, anyone have information about custom boards and how to solder surface mount components?
That wouldn’t be a problem, you would just need to construct a step up converter.
Thanks, I’ll keep that in mind for future projects. Using the lith-ion charger would be a better setup than the step up converter.
I keep forgetting about that as an option. I have a few PICs that I could use. Think I’ll work on that next. If a physical switch was still desired, I could use some load switch ic’s so only one switch is needed.
I opened up my offical ms pnc kit cable w/o breaking it. I have no clue what that circuit is doing :xeye: . I wonder what the circuit in the Chinese knock-off ones look like. For this dual mod, looks like for the 360 side, when plugged in through usb, it will only being charging the battery as opposed to the ps3 side where it will actually sync up and connect in usb mode. Plus I noticed that if the 360 is plugged in (using PnC kit and a battery hooked up) and you unplug it, the controller will still remain on. Did the same thing with the ps3 controller, but it will turn off.
things going to be more evolved with use that things like Lith-ion charger via usb, SUC and so on.
I’m currently working with purplearms on a spec for a task like that. I think he enjoys to present you the finished work. Probably this could inspire you, too.
Hmm, yesss, I never go such deep in the behaviour of this circuit. I was supposing that this circuits has some kind of charger. But I was quite sure, that wireless xbox360 pads hook up to my PC using this cable. I was quite sure about the same behaviour for xbox360…
Hi Gummowned
I recall you answer “the-red-comet” question about where do we get the ground for the sixaxis? You told him that u used the ground that the sync button uses.
So can you be more specific?
this is great ive been wanting to do a wireless mod on my te, and was debating bout returning my ps3 te for a 360 version to do a dual mod… but having two wireless versions with a axisdapter just perfect… good luck on the battery issue… gonna try to do this mod… =)
Will this have 2 home buttons? Having a single home button would cause both systems to activate unless you have to put in the switch, but if the pcb is going to be switchless does that mean wire up 2 home buttons 2 sync buttons?
I’ll be making one for the complete dual mod in the weeks to come. Just got to wait.
I’m currently using a 2 DPDT switch setup right now. Those cover the 2 usb data lines and the 5v line and the home/guide buttons. So for my setup, I only use one home/guide button. I have a few PIC’s, so I’ll be cooking up some type of switchless setup eventually. Also, adding a sync button will be optional because when the boards are hooked up to the usb, they will auto sync to that system.
Just curious, if you’re using a single li-ion battery how are you planning on using the P&C kit to make the 360 sync? If you’re using one battery on each controller will your controller only charge the current active controller?
Me using a single lith-ion cell is irrelevant to using the pnc cable.
Auto syncing is one of the things the pnc cable does. Besides the main use of it for recharging a pnc battery, it will auto sync the controller to the xbox it’s plugged in to (it still is communicating wirelessly though).
If you were to do a 2 battery setup, one for each controller, only the battery for the active controller will charge.
I realized I did something kinda stupid with the switch. Instead of putting the home/guide button on the switch, the battery should be on the switch instead.
So until I program my own PIC to do the switching (like what the imp does) the slide switch set up uses a 4PDT (or two DPDT side by side).
The four lines are :
D- (from usb)
D+ (from usb)
5v (from usb)
3.6v (from battery)
I have also started working on a guide of some sorts. It should cover about all the aspects of the mod like wiring up the 360 controller and building the lith-ion usb charger. Mind you, its not going to be a step by step, me holding your hand throughout the whole process, with 100 pictures. I need to know though, when I do finish the guide, should I create a new thread for it, or just add it to this one?
Gummowned, I’m really impressed with all that you’ve done, and appreciate it greatly. I need to see more stuff like this to kick my rear into gear, so please make it awesome.
no, just 4 condensator, jumpers, 2 resistors and one led.
(no homo)![[URL=“http://slagcoin.com/joystick/pcb_diagrams/360_diagram7.jpg”]http://slagcoin.com/joystick/pcb_diagrams/360_diagram7.jpg](http://slagcoin.com/joystick/pcb_diagrams/360_diagram7.jpg){kind=link}