-Yes, the top bunch of pins correspond to the pin connector on the sixaxis board.
-I don’t have any 23k resistors, so I put a 22k and 1k in series.
-I’m planning on using a 3rd party rechargeable battery for the xbox360 that charges through usb. Both controllers will be powered by it. Instead of having the battery being charged through either controller, it will be charged directly from the usb. Though I probably will have to make a circuit to step up the voltage from the battery for the sixaxis. The battery is rated at 2.4v while the sixaxis’s battery is around 3.7v
I just received my order from lizard licks today and I’ve started on refining the design. While working on the second dual wireless mod, I tried testing the same resister values in my schematic and I found out it wasn’t working. I then figured out that I had the emitter and collector pins on the transistors in the schematic reversed.
I’ll be working on a new schematic after I finish.
I’ve been wondering how to go about doing a dual mod…very nice …I would like to see your updated schematic hehe…so you are planning on powering both pcb using one battery…hmmm which board are you using as main? and which board is the piggyback?
btw…how do you even turn it on without turning on both system?..because if there is only one button and it is connecting the signal for the ps and the guide button…once u press that…wouldnt it turn on both system? (if you have both system)
The one battery is hooked up to both controllers. It will be recharged directly and not through either controller. So neither board is really a main.
That’s why the ps/guide line will be on a switch.
I think I have it figured out. I ordered some free samples of a step up dc/dc converter chip from TI. In a few days I’ll receive it along side with some other components for the circuit. I’ll try talking with him and share with him my results and see what he has done.
what i had in mind was using the axisadapter and a wireless 360 pcb but each of them have their own usb power source using NAUSB… and connect both to one side of the terminal and the other side of the terminal will go to the joystick and buttons…except for the guide and ps button those will go to their own push button…so as long as you dont turn on both of the controller at the same time…that should allow you to use either by themself without a switch… right? iono if my explaination is clear or not.
that’s exactly what im thinking…i mean…left side panel buttons and usb can be for xbox and the right can be for ps3…so if the layout is done…my box would have 14 buttons…i think…8 for the fight stick…and 3 on each side panel for their coorespondent system
Interesting, why would you need seperate select/start(ps3) & back/start(xb360). Couldn’t you get away with separate home & guide buttons but shared select/back & start buttons.
I have made 2 more of the circuits. One using the axisdaptor and one with the wires soldered directly to the sixaxis board. I have gotten them both to work.
I’ll be updating the schematic today to make some changes. The biggest change would be that I had the emitter and collector pins backwards in the schematic. Also the values of the resistors need to be changed (the current values still will work).
I should be receiving my free samples from various electronic places tomorrow. I’ll then be able to have the battery setup done. Results on that later.
hello everyone recently i just finished modding my TE stick wireless for ps3 but then few day ago i got so pissed at playstation online for lagging and connection trouble that i decided to switch to xbox went to futureshop and bought one since alot people say it’s better but sadly my wireless TE already has shinjn adapter so i decided to dual mod wireless got an idea how to do it, tested it and it’s working it is alot more simple then most dual mod i found on here… i’ll post picture and maybe a tuto once done but i’m stuck with something here… how do i charge the xbox controller? i never had any experience with xbox before this is the first time i even played on a xbox so… any good idea like having both ps3 and xbox pcb using the same usb cable to charge? ^^ that would be nice
Checked the tracking for a shipment of 25 wireless 360 controllers and I will have them when I get home from work today. I can start making full dual wireless mod batches.
Yesterday, I received in the mail 110 sixaxis boards and 30 lith-ion batteries. Did a preliminary check last night just to check which ones power on when connected through usb. 62 of them did not power on. 48 of them did. Today I’ll be going through those 48 boards to see if all the buttons work. So far I am very pleased with the totals so far. I actually expected a higher ratio of bad boards to working boards. <3 Ebay.
I also received several of the rechargeable battery packs and started testing. I ended up taking apart 2 of the packs to put 3 of the cells together (one pack has 2 1.2v cells, 3 cells make 3.6v to power the sixaxis). To make sure only one controller can be powered on at a time I used another DPDT switch (the other switch is for the D-/D+ lines). One pole for the power and the other pole for the ps/guide button.
I’m still looking at other battery options too. I have a few Li-Ion 18500 3.6v batteries. I’m waiting for a chip sample to arrive so I can make a usb charger for them.
Anyone know what type of circuit is in the ps3 lith-ion batterys? I don’t know the full extent of its protection circuit. Would it be okay to hook up the battery to usb to recharge or is there extra charging circuit on the sixaxis board?
P.S. One more month until I can setup shop on the forums!
Thanks for the info ben. I ordered a few free sample chips like the max1811 the other day, should arrive soon. How come your pcb board for the charger looks more complicated than the max1811 circuit?
If I use a lith-ion battery and make the usb charger for it, then I won’t need to make the step up converter. Although, I would like to know which chip you used for your SUC. When I built one, the max current out I could get was probably 100mA, but the sixaxis needs 300mA. Maybe I was just using the wrong chip.
