thanks, workin out how i wanna wire up my new stick and what’ll fit 
seems ill have to put battery on the side somewhere then
Quick question. I’d like to set up a start+sel button=guide setup with the leo v2.(i’m planning on a sixaxis+MS wireless setup). I’d imagine i’d just have to connect everything normally per the schematic, except when leov2 goes to start and select there would be a 74ACT32 chip(http://search.digikey.com/scripts/Dk…=296-4388-5-ND) in between the guide/start/select on the v2 and the start/sel buttons right? (see schematic below for the schematic, the pcb in picture would be the leov2)
http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n44/juanjose88/backstart.jpg
- credit to Freaknasty/toodles for making/confirming the schematic
Yes that will work. You can just have the power wire connected to pin 14 though. I just tested it out and you probably will want to add two diodes. One for start and one for select. Have the cathode of one soldered to pin 1 and its anode wired to the back button. Have the cathode of the other diode wired to pin 2 and its anode wired to the start button. Without those diodes, start and select were being held done constantly.
Ah~ Awesome. Will definitely try that out. I should be getting a leo v2 from ya very soon =)
just checked my mailbox and my leov2 was already in there! 2 days to nj that was fast and thank you!
Hey Gummo, I have a quick question…
Is the charger built in to the sixaxis board able to charge any 3.7v li-ion battery regardless of capacity? Is there any type of overcharge protection that would prevent a higher capacity battery from being fully charged?
The sixaxis can charge any 3.7v lithium ion cell regardless of capacity. So people have used some lithium ion batteries that have 3.7v cells together in parallel to have more capacity without any problem.
Great, thanks Gumm.
You should be getting some payment from me sometime relatively soon.
Oh actually, I meant to ask you something else also… Are the switches you have on off on or just on on?
they are on/off/on with 4 poles.
I think this is exactly what I’m looking for, problem is that I know absolutely nothing about dual modding so just need a confirmation if this will work on a PS3 Wireless stick(specifically Qanba 3, also uses a USB dongle like the Hori wireless/Tekken sticks)?
Thanks in advance, it would be great not have to be paying $130 to convert my stick into a wired dual modded stick.
Gummo
I will send more screws and stuff to you on Monday (that are smaller so it becomes more compact).
Also, I updated the measurements picture with the new screws and stuff mounted, just so people know ;).
Picci
Not sure on that/ The Leo is made to plug into the pcb of a stock sixaxis controller, with the other pcb’s wired to it. Since it’s using that pcb, there’s no dongle. You’d be replacing the PCB in your stick for that. You might be able to wire it to the ‘misc pcb’ side, but I’m not 100% sure
Hi, just got my Leo2 and I’m near completion on my dual mod, just need some help with the switch wiring…
I’m folowing this>
http://akihabarashop.jp/images/LeoSignalHookUpWirelessXbox360.jpg
but I’m using the Tekken6 360 wireless pcb instead…
http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j138/gocontourgo/Project%20Leo/360%20T6%20mod%20guide/2009-12-14213616.jpg
so my question is : which wires are supposed to be Data+ and Data - on the T6 360 wireless pcb ?
question number 2 : can I solder the Data +, Data -, Vcc, Gnd ON the ps3 usb like that instead off butchering the usb wire connected to the sixaxis> http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j138/gocontourgo/Project%20Leo/360%20T6%20mod%20guide/2009-12-14211833.jpg
( http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j138/gocontourgo/Project%20Leo/360%20T6%20mod%20guide/ps3usb.jpg point 1: 5v, 2: D-, 3: D+, 5: Gnd)
thanks a lot in advance !
I can answer question2 : yes, you can solder to the ps3 pcb if you don’t want to use a cable.
Question 1 may have been answered in the OG Sixaxis walkthrough. Let me check…
edit You may not have to use the usb data lines on the T6 pcb. The usb lines are used to sync, not anything else. SInce it already has a sync button on the T6 pcb, my guess is you wouldn’t have to do anything.
I could be wrong though
The 360 T6 wireless pcb has a 4 (or 5?) pin header in the battery compartment. I do not know what it is used for and is the only wires that I don’t know what they are. They could be for usb or not, I don’t know. You will have to use the sync button for 360 side to connect. Good news is that you can just straight up use a USB cord connected to the sixaxis as the usb will only be for ps3 side of things. That means you wouldn’t need to wire any usb lines to the switch. The switch would be used to regulate who gets battery power.
yep, I didn’t wait for your answer and tried like the switch worked in the T6 leo1 wireless dual mod tutorial you did ^^ (so just using the switch for vccs not guide as the leo2 takes care of the guide switching too ^^)
thanks for you guys answers anyways
at first I hooked up the stick to the ps3, it worked obviously since it’s just the sixaxis, the ribbon and I was confident enough with my buttons/stick wiring and my ability to use a screwdriver proprely 
I left the thig charging overnight, and tried it wireless… and it stopped working…sooo :
ps3 mode switched on …checked
removed battery, tested it : 3.80V …checked
checking every single soldering point I did with the continuity fonction of my multimeter and also if I was getting the expected voltage between contact points … took me hours, and now I feel stupid but, the - point on the leo wasn’t common grounded with the rest on the gnds on the pcb because I took the libery of unsoldering the baterry holder and not using the screws to hold the ps3 pcb and the leo2 together…
so yeah, since the - point is grounded the right way, everything worked perfect but this one thing :
LB isn’t working (will try on a ps3 later too)
the push button is fine (swapped the LB with the LT QD for a sec and it worked)
continuity is good between :
QD+push button to the L1 screw/L1 terminal soldering point on the other side of the leo2 pcb
Lb wire/point from the 360 T6 hori pcb harness to the lb leo2 soldering point
lb sordering point to the “in”-side of the diode going to L1 terminal soldering point afterwards
gnd (screw terminal) <-> L1 (screw terminal) shows 0volt ! (gnd <-> any other button : 3v something)
I think I have an idea, but I don’t have time right now, gonna grab a few pintes and check some more afterwards ^^
Hi Gummowned,
I have already done 2 dual mod set-ups with your Leo V1, sixaxis, and TEKKEN 360 wireless.
Question: I dont know if you remember but I always asked to put solder leads to D01 and D15 postions for the RT and LT …
On the leoV2 and Tekken 6 360 wireless pcb, can I now just solder the RT and LT straight to the board? Do I have to solder anything to the trigger common?
I apologize if it has been mentioned somewhere, if so, can you direct me to the page.
Thanks so much
The new board has two extra spots to solder the triggers to in case the triggers aren’t analog. They are pointed out in the diagrams Per made. Links to them are in OP. They are unlabeled on the leo 2 board. For your case you wont have to wire the trigger common.
Aha, I see they are on top. RT (digital) LT (digital) as you mentioned, unlabeled on the board per diagram/measurement link.
Thanks so much
so there was no continuity between the end of the L1 diode and the terminal solder point, so I had to resolder the diode ond the leo2 board :\
now the button works like a charm!
side question> to get a 3rd wireless pcb to work with the misc pcb points I just have to use a 4position switch right ?